Builds DRANGED's GX470 build/ownership thread (2 Viewers)

[DRANGED]

Discoveries were made:

While proud I retained ALL engine studs in situ, fitment is impossible with them all in place.
All block-side surfaces scotch-brited

I was able to shimmy the passenger side in place and hang it off the studs, but no go on the driver side. Pulling the driver's side back out once all mocked and cat tacked (prolly have to MIG tack it) THEN refitting it back in once filled in with TIG WILL BE A CHORE!!!
I'm using and engine hoist vs. floor jack to lift the engine; I've replaced both motor mounts and the transmission mount. I've refitted the engine mounts to the block; the insulator mounts to the block side mount with a nut, but you have to take that bit off the block to mount the new insulators onto the block-side mount. The frame side mount is held with two bolts.

this is looking down into the block-side mounts... the insulators mount into these from below

Frame side bolts removed in this shot.

I don't really see the space to wedge a 2x4 in there once those bolts are removed. The fan it interfering with the shroud and the bell housing is ramming the firewall at this point with the engine jacked with a hoist.

cats removed.
Driver side has cracks we'll fill in with SS filler rod
rod

Next move(s) will be remove some driver side studs, but not all can come out. At least the rear top must stay in place b/c there's NO room to refit a stud or bolt, one of the header pipes is FLUSH in the way, access to the nut will be ... challenging.

Get driver head in, lower block, fit Y-pipe and exhaust, then mock up cat and tack in place, un-bolt exhaust bits and remove header then bench weld the cat fully, then put stuff back in. THEN fit gasket on pass side, dry fit header with a few nuts and re-mount exhaust. Dry fit trimmed cat and tack on, then un bolt bits, finish weld that cat on the bench and replace bits, THEN using ATD, fit all the bits and start tightening stuff... Once all fitted go through the mtions of checking for leaks and addressing....

THENNNNN, do all the detailed checking, and fire it up. . . !

 

[ArBrnSnpr]

Looks like you're doing it right!

Are those factory motor mounts?

 

[DRANGED]

Looks like you're doing it right!

Are those factory motor mounts?

yup toyota insulators going on the stock engine mounts, reusing all bolts.
old ones in situ (lower bolts removed and engine hoisted up off the frame a scosh):

New insulators on and back in place (hand tight)

I think I'll try removing them again and see if that gets me the space to maneuver the headers, then I'll pull some driver side studs with the enging mount out and see if I can negotiate that way.
also I'll try lifting by one engine hook side at a time instead of both at the same time. maybe lifting with rotation will afford moar room. . . .

Stay tuned!!


PS: got the new trans mount in too

 

[HomersCanyonero]

Wow…that’s a lot of work it seems! It looks like you will be sounding and feeling good after everything is in.

 

[DRANGED]

I pulled a stud for specs and am thinking a mix of studs and bolts will be the way.



Flange specs (I was rushed and didn't think to switch to metric for these, but got metric on the stud below...

2007 GX 470 Exhaust manifold (and exhaust flange) stud specs:
Thread pitch: 1.25
stud M10 x 45 (40mm? of thread with shoulder for seating in the block, 5mm of e(xternal)Torx head.
Block side depth: 12.75mm, manifold/nut side 23.75 depth

Stock manifold flange 8mm thickness.

 

[DRANGED]

With all studs retained in place there's no wiggle room (specifically driver) to hang the headers on the studs. I pulled the motor mount bolts to free up a little room, but still not really enough on the Driver side as the header contacts the steering linkage and the rear top stud,

I could hang the passenger side on the studs okay, around the motor mount in place still, so I think that side will be straight forward, I just happen to have started everyting on the driver's side (glutton for punishment that I am. . . .)
I think needs to stay a stud b/c the tube in front of that fitting would be ultra hell for bolt fitment. Plus scratching the tubes with all the fiddling
This stud will be a bear. . . .

@Rednexus and @ArBrnSnpr
Since you guys are the main commenters from the other DT headers threads and are along my journey here, I'll just ping you here to keep my beta consolidated in this build. Did you put your studs back in but as bolts or did you go with bolts?
So, I'm thinking a mix of studs and bolts and opted for these.

If you know others running headers, Ping ping them to comment too.

 

[Rednexus]

Several of my studs came out as bolts and I put them back in the same way. I've heard of others shortening the rust welded stud/nut to effectively become a bolt so a shallow socket could be used.

 

[ArBrnSnpr]

I actually purchased all new studs and OE nuts. The studs of mine that didn't come out during the OE manifold removal were removed using a stud extractor.
I chased the holes and reinstalled all the studs, then hung my headers and put all the nuts back on.
I installed the long tube headers, but I didn't have any clearance issues. I did have my motor mount out while I worked each respective side though. I recall having to lift the motor a tab to get the clearance needed.
I'm thinking due to the tube length difference between the LT and the ST options, there's a clearance difference.

 

[DRANGED]

I actually purchased all new studs and OE nuts. The studs of mine that didn't come out during the OE manifold removal were removed using a stud extractor.
I chased the holes and reinstalled all the studs, then hung my headers and put all the nuts back on.
I installed the long tube headers, but I didn't have any clearance issues. I did have my motor mount out while I worked each respective side though. I recall having to lift the motor a tab to get the clearance needed.
I'm thinking due to the tube length difference between the LT and the ST options, there's a clearance difference.

@ArBrnSnpr
Yeah, design differences for sure effecting access.

I Also just learned you've got the railless headers, so moar Access to upper stud nuts. Your install certainly became unique and I also felt justified reading you had a 13 hr day and 14 hr day, so I don't feel lame Being over 20 hours in, lol...
I've kinda stopped keeping accurate hour count after yesterday's 6 hour push.

 

[DRANGED]

Another 6 hour push this Friday....but went into it with a significant attitude change.
I definitely felt like the majorest hump had been cleared (hopefully it's not naïve optimism), and I wouldn't quite say I'm on the downhill, but maybe I'm on the downhill. I suspect there will be some shenanigans with flange seals and I hope it all seals and is leak free without difficulty on the FINAL bolt-up. I do have a concern the lesser quality surface of the driver header may bite me (as seen here), but time will tell if this anxiety is founded or just annoying), hopefully the OEM MLS head gaskets do Amazing things.


Fridays task list follows:
Dry fit headers, cut and sleeved passenger cat (driver was already cut), loosely fitted flanges, aligned motor mounts using bolts, lowered engine, snugged everything and sharpy-marked headers.

Then Pulled it all back out to sand back more of the ceramic coating and shortened driver side pipe by an inch or so.

 

[DRANGED]

... Then dry fit everything back in, Snugged flange bolts and buddy TIG tacked cats.

AAAAAND THEEEEENN I pulled it all back out for the bench weld. . . .



Inching closer (to the next false summit )!!!!!

We may cut down the driver side rail by a half inch of so (as pictured in 680). It interferes with a power steering line on install so a scosh moar wiggle room could be immense.

Then I gotta figure out how to hang them on a few studs (i dry fit them with 4 studs and nuts on driver and just 4 nuts among all 8nstuds passenger) and insert the remaining studs in the driver side?. I may use a bolt or two as access for some is INSANELY challenging!



But . . . PROgress continues to be made!

 

[DRANGED]

19 days via 25+ish hours of wrenching...


DONE with the short tube header job!

 

[DRANGED]

Eff yeah!!!!

 

[ArBrnSnpr]

That looks awesome!
I think you're going to be really happy with the added performance of the headers and the feel of the new mounts. I imagine with that amount of sag in the old mounts, you were experiencing some drive line slop you probably never knew was there.

Very clean looking install!

 

[DRANGED]

So final push was 6 hours on Sunday.
Trimmed down driver rail 1/2" or so and mounted 7 new studs into block.

Top rear stud was expected to be a b!+ç#, so a bolt was going there. In the end, that fitting took at least 1.5 hours for 2 people to get a bolt and washer in the top rear driver stud's spot!!

From ground looking up @ back of head (note Cat above gloved hand, disconnected driveshaft on left to promote axcess), arrows point @ bolt

From wheel Well,. Arrow points @ bolt 'access' .. not tool access, just helper's access. Painter's tape was applied to minimize ceramic scratching on steering linkage during dry fitment.

Zoomed

If I were to do ST headers on a GX again:
I'd consider pulling upper A-arms out for better access (then you can drop in those 3⁰ aftermarket UCAs that you wanna run with yer lift, dog!! ) and I'm shy of recommending pulling the engine, but just shy because I just don't know how rough that is in a GX.


unbolting motor mounts is key (put new ones in while you're in there!), as is hoisting the engine up so there's like 1.5-2 inches between the motor mount and the frame-side bracket.

i had to use a ratchet strap to pull the engine toward pass side when lifted off.moimts for best driver side access (my buddy had a concrete-mounted pole we could anchor from on the passenger side).

passenger access is okay (by comparison) even with all 8 studs in situ.

flex head gear wrench was key and may have been used in lieu of a socket and creative combinations of extensions and wobbles for torqueing. some people trim down the e-torx head off the studs to allow use of a regular vs deep socket.


New flange gasket/seals (2 doughnuts and one tapered doughnut) were installed in exhaust joints.

As Previously mentioned,. New motor mounts and a new transmission mount went in "while yer in there".

An Unexpected life pressure Forced the urgent wrap-up of the project on Sunday. It went together and sealed up fine. On warmup all the new flange seals smoked as they seated and a successful test drive showed no leaks.
As a proper test I pulled an unexpected 880+ mile rocket run in 15 hours Monday! It's quiet, stock-like quiet!! Can I tell a power difference? I'm not sure but academically there's some gain.

It may be a scosh more throaty around 3200 roms and it is a little more responsive too while still stock-quiet And I think the new mounts help smooth things a bit too.

 

[DRANGED]

Exhaust gas rails Were installed using bolts (M6 1.0x20) instead of the studs and nuts, and passenger lower bolt was cut down (maybe a 16mm would be good there) related to header stud nut interference.
Driver side's car-side flange seemed clocked a Little compared to header flange maybe tweaked when it was pried off the studs).

 

[DRANGED]

This one is marked as done!
Mileage: 231515

19 days and 25+ hours (give or take).

[Hopefully] THIS saga is closed.

 

[Rednexus]

Congratulations! It is a massive job. Mine was in the 20-hour-ish range and I had the long tubes with no welding. I think your lack of rusty fasteners made it easier for you . Enjoy the power gains. The headers also look sweet from the inner fender wells - lets people know you have no ordinary GX. Mine still look great 18+ months later too, and that's in our more harsh MO climate.

 

[tlin]

This one is marked as done!

19 days and 25+ hours (give or take).

[Hopefully] THIS saga is closed.

Soooooo, you've had the weekend to drive it - any perceptible power gains with the Short Tubes? 0-60 runs now down in the 5's? KIDDING!

Great job getting this done, thanks for redirecting me over here from the other thread. WELL DONE!!!!!

 

[DRANGED]

Aaaaand then this. . . .

Life makes All Sorts Of turns with ups and downs.