Machine work in progress.
RCV 300M + ARP bolts + 6 dowel pins = RIP third member
RCV 300M + ARP bolts + 6 dowel pins = RIP third member
300 M rear axles and flanges (1 Viewer)
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Did you send the hubs to machine shop or drilling them yourself?Machine work in progress.
RCV 300M + ARP bolts + 6 dowel pins = RIP third member
They're out with a machinist.
Will they machine down the OD on the flange bolts and washers so the wheels fit? Looks good
No, I'll see how it goes first. I think @cruisermatt mentioned sometimes it interferes, depends on the wheel I think. We'll see
Please explain these arp bolts. I ordered the arp stud kit... good news is have not done mine yet so there still time before the Stellar built boys get the rig.Machine work in progress.
RCV 300M + ARP bolts + 6 dowel pins = RIP third member
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With pretty much any smaller bore aluminum wheel the bolt flange needs to be turned down. It's definitely doable. For anyone running late-model Toyota steelies (like me and a bunch of us probably) the wheel bore is already scalloped around there since Toyota knew we would be doing this later.
@jcardona1 Looking nice man, but you honestly don't need the 6 hub dowels with the 7/16" bolts. I broke my locker with only three of those bolts in one hub. Granted it was a lunchbox locker but still. Those are the 1.25" long bolts with the .25" shank, right? Good call on having it done properly at a machinist. I think people that have issues with them loosening up used a cordless drill or cheapo drill press and everything is crooked. I have been running mine for years now without them ever coming loose.
FYI I have a setup to drill these hubs for larger bolts if anyone is interested in shipping me hubs to do
With pretty much any smaller bore aluminum wheel the bolt flange needs to be turned down. It's definitely doable. For anyone running late-model Toyota steelies (like me and a bunch of us probably) the wheel bore is already scalloped around there since Toyota knew we would be doing this later.
@jcardona1 Looking nice man, but you honestly don't need the 6 hub dowels with the 7/16" bolts. I broke my locker with only three of those bolts in one hub. Granted it was a lunchbox locker but still. Those are the 1.25" long bolts with the .25" shank, right? Good call on having it done properly at a machinist. I think people that have issues with them loosening up used a cordless drill or cheapo drill press and everything is crooked. I have been running mine for years now without them ever coming loose.
FYI I have a setup to drill these hubs for larger bolts if anyone is interested in shipping me hubs to do
Thanks for the tips, appreciate it! Looks like I'll have to take down the edges of those bolts with my trusty ol' flapwheel
I too thought the 6 studs were overkill but I did wonder if it would impact any sort of warranty coverage by RCV or if it was no questions asked. But I guess it's a moot point since I drilled out their flange for bigger bolts. Anyway, I seriously doubt I'll be able to damage these shafts given the way I wheel. I was surprised to see my OEM shafts were twisted.
I'm pretty sure I remember a video of you hitting the soup Bowl pretty hardThanks for the tips, appreciate it! Looks like I'll have to take down the edges of those bolts with my trusty ol' flapwheel
Got em back! These look pretty beefy. I regret not having him turn down the bolt heads and washers. I'll need to grind a tiny bit off so clears the wheels.
Just chuck the bolts in a drill threads in the chuck and touch them on your bench grinder while spinning them.
Ummm yeah, that's definitely moving the mechanical fuse somewhere upstream lmao.
I wonder why RVC didn’t go with studs instead of bolts.
A health 9.5 should stand up well to the 300m shafts even running 40’s with the stock powertrain.
A health 9.5 should stand up well to the 300m shafts even running 40’s with the stock powertrain.
RCV did go with studs, they expect you to use your stock studs. Jcardona drilled the flanges and his hubs out to accept the larger ARP bolts.
Actually the went with larger then stock studs and add 4 more. I wish they had gone with the stock size then I would not have had to drill out my hubs .
30 spline 300m rcvs
Where’s the upgrade path from here?
Are 32s that much stronger?
Otherwise I have heard of people fitting d44 side gears and boring out the carrier to accept 35 spline
Unsure if they would then fit though the spindles
And?
And what?
Yeah I would talk to RCV and see what they think. 32 spline is the next upgrade and from what I understand fairly easy. I know RCV has made 32 spline shafts for 80's. Just for reference what size tires and engine are you running?
