P0420 wont leave me alone.. (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

I used straight version, but this company has both shapes and I haven’t gotten any errors since installing. OEM headers, not DT, but they did work.
This looks like the best source anyone has linked so far, thanks!
 
I would suggest you use 90 degree just for the ease of use. When you redo the exhaust with headers or anything cool for performance or move it closer for clearance the straight defoulers tap on your body pan. Ask me how I know lol.
 
I used straight version, but this company has both shapes and I haven’t gotten any errors since installing. OEM headers, not DT, but they did work.
This is exactly what just showed up in my mailbox. Looks like it'll do the job just fine. Thanks.
 
This is exactly what just showed up in my mailbox. Looks like it'll do the job just fine. Thanks.
Estoddart:
have you installed it yet and how is it working out for you? Did you order the straight or angled one?

I too have the P0420 code for "Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold Bank 1" and looking for solutions....
 
Estoddart:
have you installed it yet and how is it working out for you? Did you order the straight or angled one?

I too have the P0420 code for "Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold Bank 1" and looking for solutions....
I ordered the angled ones and installed them. The install was easy, but I have only put ~500 miles on so far. No codes but I’m waiting to get excited until I have a 1000+ miles
 
So I just ordered 2 of the angled spacers, and waiting to receive it. Question is: I only have a code for Bank 1 (driver side). Should I put in a spacer for the passenger side O2 sensor now, or wait until I get a code for that one?
 
Tried installing the spacers today but my O2 sensors were stuck stuck stuck. Sprayed some PB Blaster on them and will wait to try it again tomorrow. THEM because when I used my OBD reader to clear the codes, I found out I got the passenger side code too (P0430). Lol, luckily I ordered 2.
 
Try removing with the exhaust slightly warm (if you did not already). By that I mean let the engine run for 5-10 minutes, then try to remove the sensor. That's done the trick for multiple vehicles that I've had, when they wouldn't even budge cold.
 
Try removing with the exhaust slightly warm (if you did not already). By that I mean let the engine run for 5-10 minutes, then try to remove the sensor. That's done the trick for multiple vehicles that I've had, when they wouldn't even budge cold.
Thanks for the suggestion. I will definitely have it a bit warm when I start working on it again tomorrow, I have to start it up and put it up on ramps (I didn't want to leave it on ramps overnight).
 
Thanks for the suggestion. I will definitely have it a bit warm when I start working on it again tomorrow, I have to start it up and put it up on ramps (I didn't want to leave it on ramps overnight).
Try removing with the exhaust slightly warm (if you did not already). By that I mean let the engine run for 5-10 minutes, then try to remove the sensor. That's done the trick for multiple vehicles that I've had, when they wouldn't even budge cold.

Update: I was able to get 1 of the O2 sensors off (passenger side) today and installed the spacer, but I was not able to get the driver side sensor off. I hit it with PB again, waited and couldn't get it to budge. I drove it around for 20 min to get it hot, and then immediately tried to get it off but no dice. I tried tapping at it a bit also but... stuck.

IMG_9469.jpeg
 
I have dealt with too many rusty/stuck crap on the gx, I got my o2 sensors off but it sucked. One side took hours. Not as bad as the front diff plug or the snapped valve cover bolt but it wasn’t fun. I bought a cheap o2 wrench with attached handle for this job and it broke in about 5 minutes. My recollection is foggy on what finally worked but I think it was just trying over and over, finally came out.
 
I have dealt with too many rusty/stuck crap on the gx, I got my o2 sensors off but it sucked. One side took hours. Not as bad as the front diff plug or the snapped valve cover bolt but it wasn’t fun. I bought a cheap o2 wrench with attached handle for this job and it broke in about 5 minutes. My recollection is foggy on what finally worked but I think it was just trying over and over, finally came out.
a proper O2 sensor wrench and some strong arm powers works well. That pic showed a bit of the north on it so the rust is real. A muffler shop can remove them in 10 seconds and it is annoying they pay to play haha
 
I had an o2 wrench with built in handle and the normal version that attaches to a ratchet or whatever. Neither worked. I have a Milwaukee m18 impact and used it with o2 attachment and it didn’t work on the one side. Like I said, just lots of tugging. It reminded me of middle school…
 
What usually works for me is using the closed end of an open-end wrench. This may require cutting the harness if the connector won't fit through the wrench (they are easy to splice back together with heat shrink connectors). Then either hitting the wrench with a hammer or using a cheater bar on the open-end wrench to remove the O2 sensor. You might destroy the sensor in the process, but a Denso universal downstream O2 sensor is only around $50 on Amazon and will work fine.
 
What usually works for me is using the closed end of an open-end wrench. This may require cutting the harness if the connector won't fit through the wrench (they are easy to splice back together with heat shrink connectors). Then either hitting the wrench with a hammer or using a cheater bar on the open-end wrench to remove the O2 sensor. You might destroy the sensor in the process, but a Denso universal downstream O2 sensor is only around $50 on Amazon and will work fine.
I also have been there. I have also cut my sensor off halfway through it and put a socket on there with an impact :doh::doh:
 
What usually works for me is using the closed end of an open-end wrench. This may require cutting the harness if the connector won't fit through the wrench (they are easy to splice back together with heat shrink connectors). Then either hitting the wrench with a hammer or using a cheater bar on the open-end wrench to remove the O2 sensor. You might destroy the sensor in the process, but a Denso universal downstream O2 sensor is only around $50 on Amazon and will work fine.
Thanks for the hammer suggestion (and to the other posters who also suggested it also). I was using one of those slotted O2-sensor specific sockets and a breaker bar, but I was afraid of doing any damage to the threads by forcing things too much. (I had already twisted off a bolt-head when I was trying to take off the skid plate to get at the oil filter). I also saw via Youtube some suggestions about using a hose clamp around the slotted socket to prevent the slots from expanding while torquing to prevent slipping.
 
a proper O2 sensor wrench and some strong arm powers works well. That pic showed a bit of the north on it so the rust is real. A muffler shop can remove them in 10 seconds and it is annoying they pay to play haha
Yup, I was using one of those slotted O2 sensor sockets. As to strong arm power, I did have my coffee and Wheaties before I crawled under the GX 😭 lol. What I saw in some YouTube videos since was some suggestions to put a hose clamp around the socket to prevent the slot from expanding during torquing and thus slipping. Will also try using a hammer on the breaker bar as most have suggested instead of the tugging' method.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom