EGR removal and plugs (1 Viewer)

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I have a 1987 fj60. I am replacing the intake/exhaust gaskets. While there I want to remove the all ready not functioning EGR. I HAVE THE “J” pipe block off and the large block off for the pipe directly under the carb. All new gaskets for all those pieces. When removing the EGR cooler do I need to plug anything there? When removing the EGR modulator the vacuum hoses from it do I just cap? (See picture). Will I have any different drivability issues after removing a non working EGR other then I am now?

9E34EF11-F274-4498-9243-7F27C4E90AE9.jpeg
 
Other, smarter people will weigh in, but one thing you will need to do is disable your distributor vacuum advance now that the EGR is not in play.

My crude understanding: the vacuum advance in stock setup advances the timing under certain running conditions, based on the assumption that a functioning EGR will be injecting cooler-burning exhaust gas into the combustion chamber. If the advance happens, and no exhaust gas is injected, you will end up with a very lean condition which is bad news.

Maybe you have already done this given that your EGR is already wasn’t working. If you haven’t done it, have you noticed pinging under load? That would be a sign that you have too much advance and no exhaust gas to cool things down.

In years past I (and many others) would bypass the EGR between smog tests, and during that time disable the vacuum advance to balance things out. It was as simple as swapping the two vac lines at the vacuum advance pot (just forward of the distributor).
 
As far as I know, the only vacuum line that needs to be capped is the EGR port on the passenger-side of the carburetor, as that should be the supply vacuum for the EGR. All the others are blocked off with plates and gaskets. I don't remember if the modulator or EGR uses the 3-prong "Gas Filter" that threads into the intake or not. If it does, I would cap that as well. The lines that were then removed from the mess of vacuum spaghetti can then remain open, as it shouldn't have any vacuum supplied to it from the above.

For what it's worth, and this is by no means condoning or recommending it, I went for years with a non-functioning EGR on a crudely-desmogged engine with the vacuum advance still engaged. This is going on 10+ years ago, but I believe I just retarded the timing a degree or two until my AFRs were good and didn't experience pinging under load.

Then I was forced to daily drive it after my Camry got totaled, and invested in a JimC recurve and it was smooth sailing from there on out.
 
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Other, smarter people will weigh in, but one thing you will need to do is disable your distributor vacuum advance now that the EGR is not in play.

My crude understanding: the vacuum advance in stock setup advances the timing under certain running conditions, based on the assumption that a functioning EGR will be injecting cooler-burning exhaust gas into the combustion chamber. If the advance happens, and no exhaust gas is injected, you will end up with a very lean condition which is bad news.

Maybe you have already done this given that your EGR is already wasn’t working. If you haven’t done it, have you noticed pinging under load? That would be a sign that you have too much advance and no exhaust gas to cool things down.

In years past I (and many others) would bypass the EGR between smog tests, and during that time disable the vacuum advance to balance things out. It was as simple as swapping the two vac lines at the vacuum advance pot (just forward of the distributor).
So I did the spring swap in the Dizzy. I re installed the stop pin also. so timing is set more advanced then stock.
 
When removing the manifolds, does the hot air tube need to stay? Looks like the mesh that connects from the manifold to the tube itself is really close to being a powder. Can I remove? do I need it. if I remove it do I need to plug the bottom of the air cleaner ?
 
I’m surprised the that hot air tube is still intact! Mine was half disintegrated. If you remove yours, I’m sure someone who is trying to build back to original would really like to have it. If you want to keep the hot air intake, the tube can be replaced. I think City racer has them.
 
I’m surprised the that hot air tube is still intact! Mine was half disintegrated. If you remove yours, I’m sure someone who is trying to build back to original would really like to have it. If you want to keep the hot air intake, the tube can be replaced. I think City racer has them.
I did replace the tube itself from City Racer. Does the Hot air tube air just radiant heat from the manifold? I don't understand
 
Does the Hot air tube air just radiant heat from the manifold? I don't understand
The hot air intake duct/hose originally connected to a little holder down at the exhaust manifold arm to keep that end of the hose in place. The other end of the hose connects to the bottom of the air cleaner neck.

When everything is working and present, a little valve on the air cleaner senses the temperature of the air in the air cleaner housing and controls the flapper valve on the air cleaner neck to either open (to let hot air in) or close (to bypass the hot air.
 
The hot air intake duct/hose originally connected to a little holder down at the exhaust manifold arm to keep that end of the hose in place. The other end of the hose connects to the bottom of the air cleaner neck.

When everything is working and present, a little valve on the air cleaner senses the temperature of the air in the air cleaner housing and controls the flapper valve on the air cleaner neck to either open (to let hot air in) or close (to bypass the hot air.
Is the hot air tube attached to the EGR system or just the manifold? Should I reinstall it when I reinstall manifolds?
 
Hot Air Intake has nothing shared with EGR system. HAI is useful for cold climates. But it’s also technically part of the emissions equipment.

Here’s sn overview drawing of both systems. You should have a copy of the emissions manual

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  • 2F Emissions Manual.pdf
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Is the hot air tube attached to the EGR system or just the manifold? Should I reinstall it when I reinstall manifolds?
@OSS is giving you the 60 Series bible. Read it cover to cover several times and everything will make more sense. The engine ancillaries are much easier to think about when you can break them apart into their individual systems: EGR, AI, HAI, HIC, HAC, PCV, SC, etc, etc.
 
No. The BVSV is used by other systems.
The picture you sent over (thank you for that). Can I remove and plugs said hoses now? With out removing the EGR system? Will the 60 run different or any worse?
 
Can some one share the Part numbers and quantity of the hardware for the manifolds mounted to the block? Also I have seen some people remove the studs of the top middle two and replace them with bolts. What is the purpose of this switch, and what bolts are being used, size and thread.
 

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