If it was empty that should've been. A sign that something was wrong. I've got catch cans on 2 rigs currently. If I ever drained them and they were empty I'd be terrified.
1HD-T oil leak (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter IanB
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If it was empty that should've been. A sign that something was wrong. I've got catch cans on 2 rigs currently. If I ever drained them and they were empty I'd be terrified.
Empty as in I emptied it so I knew it should be flowing thru OK. Didn't know there was some super fine mesh screen in there--to catch oil out of air, duh! It wasn't just a can, it actually had a hidden coalescing filter in it. Not quite sure how or why it clogged, cheapo Amazon unit.
I think the cheapo Amazon unit was the issue. All good catch cans will have a way to trap the vapor.
i had a mishimoto catch can for a while. same thing happened that it pressurized by crank case worse and made a bigger mess. i think the provent ones are the best. i may look just to one again. i have mine vented to atmosphere and into my fender but i’m seeing oil film on my fender that i don’t like as it picks us dirt.
as this is an oil leak thread can anyone help me identify where mine might be leaking from? i’ve been chasing a leak too and can’t find quite where it’s from. this is the side of my engine with my injection pump off. it’s dry midway down the oil cooler. is there a seal in the housing around the timing gears that can leak? no oil in the coolant so i don’t believe it’s a leaky oil cooler and there’s no coolant leaking around the cooler either.
or is this a leaky oil pan that oil is being blown up a little? i’m pretty sure the streak of oil down the center of the oil cooler is from messy pouring while filling the oil after an oil change.
as this is an oil leak thread can anyone help me identify where mine might be leaking from? i’ve been chasing a leak too and can’t find quite where it’s from. this is the side of my engine with my injection pump off. it’s dry midway down the oil cooler. is there a seal in the housing around the timing gears that can leak? no oil in the coolant so i don’t believe it’s a leaky oil cooler and there’s no coolant leaking around the cooler either.
or is this a leaky oil pan that oil is being blown up a little? i’m pretty sure the streak of oil down the center of the oil cooler is from messy pouring while filling the oil after an oil change.
so i degreased the bottom of my engine and pressure washed it to see if i can find where my oil leak is coming from. it seems to be between the block and the part that holds the crank and bearings in place (i don’t know what it’s called). the oil pan bolts to the bottoms of it but that is sealed. what does it take to take that off and reseal it?
are you sure it's not your turbo oil pipe? there is also an upgraded reinforced part to go in its place.
I bronze-brazed mine temporarily until I was able to get myself apart
turbo pipe leak
I bronze-brazed mine temporarily until I was able to get myself apart
PN: 15407-17020
turbo pipe leak
That's the girdle. Big job to reseal as it forms the lower half of the main cap. If i was doing it I'd pull the engine, and then you're on a slippery slope starting with big end bearings and ending with a full rebuild.
If you do it theres an o-ring seal thing between the block and the girdle that will need changing.
Turbo is on the other side
turbo side of the engine is dry. my leak is under the injection pump
BEB already done a couple years ago. i wondered if this was going to be a rabbit hole. this may mean i pull this truck off the road for a while so i can do it right. it’ll be time for a full rebuild if i pull the engine. have a little more blow by than i like and i’m at about 600000km.
yeah, sorry i meant main bearings not BEBs but that would be a logical thing to change while you're in there. There's no gasket its just sealed with RTV, I've seen a couple weep for a while from that join. 1 ended up with a full rebuild (500k plus engine) and the other spun a main bearing before it was dealt with (just coincidence).
At the very least you could pull it and do rear main, reseal the timing case and do the seals in that too including the crank seal. Obvious, but would be a good time to do timing belt, water pump too.
Managing scope creep is the hard bit though. Do you pull the head and have it gone through and do the gasket? Snowballs from there!
this was a secondary issue i’ve been hoping to fix. my bigger problem is i can’t get the engine to fire. it started as a hot start issue that after it had been run it had to cool down before it’d start. now today it won’t cold start (after i had pump and injectors all rebuilt). the oil leak started not long after my hot start issues happened. while cranking now i get exhaust coming out the tail pipe but no fire. just crank. i wonder if i’ve developed a compression issue. maybe too much blow by lead to crank case pressure that lead to the leak. 
i was supposed to take it to a local diesel mechanic tomorrow but i can’t get it running now to even do that
i was supposed to take it to a local diesel mechanic tomorrow but i can’t get it running now to even do that
cranking no fire I had a simple issue due to the fuel-cut solenoid being disconnected I bumped it accidentally disconnecting the wire when I was messing around that areathis was a secondary issue i’ve been hoping to fix. my bigger problem is i can’t get the engine to fire. it started as a hot start issue that after it had been run it had to cool down before it’d start. now today it won’t cold start (after i had pump and injectors all rebuilt). the oil leak started not long after my hot start issues happened. while cranking now i get exhaust coming out the tail pipe but no fire. just crank. i wonder if i’ve developed a compression issue. maybe too much blow by lead to crank case pressure that lead to the leak.
well if you want to do a compression test yourself it's pretty easy and the tool is cheap.
I have used this tool and pulled each glow plug to test each cylinder you can follow this guide here
1hdt fuel solenoid
i have a 1hdt swapped into a 1989 fj62. that matters because its an all 12v system. last week was going through a drive through and had to shut it off to hear the kid on the other end. went to restart it and it won’t go! i just bumped it which is normally all i needed to do to get it running...
forum.ih8mud.com
here’s the thread of my main problem. power to solenoid doesn’t seem to be the issue. i did a compression test but am going to repeat hopefully tonight as i didn’t do the oil in the cylinder after. i think i have some compression issues now along with this oil leak. may be time for a rebuild. it’s just going to cost a bunch
redid compression with all glow plugs out at the same time. wow what a difference! all cylinders over 400psi. so engine doesn’t need rebuild. this leak though needs to be fixed. is this a job a diesel shop can do with the engine still in the truck?
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Leak at the crank girdle?
No, you'd be best pulling the engine out. To separate the girdle, nothing is holding the crank in place except friction on the piston rings.
Time to put new bearings and rings at bare minimum. New rings means head has to come off.
If compression is a bit low, time to look at boring cylinders and installing oversized pistons.
You're 90% of the way to a full rebuild at this point
did new compression last night with all glow plugs out at the same time. numbers are actually way better than i thought originally.
440-1
400-2
440-4
420-5
440-6
so i think rings are ok. no extra oil in cylinders to get there.
so i really don’t want to pull the engine. i’m going to take it in to a diesel shop next week to try and figure out my starting issue. after than i’d deal with the leak. it’s not leaking if it’s not running!! first things first
440-1
400-2
440-4
420-5
440-6
so i think rings are ok. no extra oil in cylinders to get there.
so i really don’t want to pull the engine. i’m going to take it in to a diesel shop next week to try and figure out my starting issue. after than i’d deal with the leak. it’s not leaking if it’s not running!! first things first
quick follow up question. what should i use to seal the girdle? is the toyota fipg stuff good for this? i’ve used it religiously for my oil pans.
going to pull the engine next month i hope it i can get my crap together.
going to pull the engine next month i hope it i can get my crap together.
