1UZ-FE/2UZ-FE/3UZ-FE with manual transmission and Speeduino ECU. (1 Viewer)

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Jun 7, 2009
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Hi,
First, I want to thank Effjay76 for finding the right a possible clutch disc for the H55F/ in his thread here 1UZ mated to a 4 speed. But I've come to the conclusion that clutch will eventually destroy the input shaft. I am creating a new thread because I just realized it's probably rude to hijack his post.

Now a big, fat warning for anyone thinking about ClutchXperts SPC or CXP clutch parts on amazon and ebay. They are selling clutch parts for a Supra, which are 9.25" for the 5VZFE, 9.75" application. See thread below what they are pawning off. I'm in a dialog with a 'Head Manager' by the name of Jason S. after they shipped me the wrong pressure plate, they are now saying I must have a different engine, and I'm dealing with a swap, and Jason is assurring me this is for the 5VZFE. Well, I have a ruler and pictures which I will post below. If you are getting a pressure plate and disc from them, it will fit once you drill the locator pin holes, but you will have 20-30% less clutch surface will actually make contact with the flywheel. It's funny that Rock Auto, Exedy, Kupp, FX, ClutchMax and everyone else show the 5VZFE as a 9.75- 9.84 (250mm) clutch disc, but not ClutchXperts. I applied a little heat to the sticker to peel it back a bit and this is a Exedy TCY715 pressure plate that they have applied a ton of yellow, then black paint on. Now their communication has been excellent, let's just hope they can admit someone screwed up. I'll update as I learn more.

I have all 3 engines for three different applications.
A 2UZ-FE into a rock crawler with the H55F (I have both the transmission and the 2UZ-FE)
Two 3UZ-FE, one into a daily driver with the H55F
A 1UZ-FE turbocharged with a 2006 350Z 6 speed transmission (CD009/A) mated to a Landcruiser FJ55 rear axle in a 1978 Toyota Corona with a speeduino running it:

Engines:
  • 1992 SC400 1UZ-FE 256HP,260Ftlbs I am hoping to push 400HP with the stock engine and a turbo. It sounds like this is pretty easy to do.
  • 2004 Tundra 2UZ-FE 290HP,320Ftlbs
  • 2001 LS430 3UZ-FE 282HP,325Ftlbs
ALL of these engines have an identical crank. I need to verify the 2UZ, but I think all of the bell housing mounts are identical as well. As you all know, the 2UZ has a cast iron, not AL block.
To compare, the 3SGTE from the gen2 MR2, 1992 is 232HP,224FtLbs

Given that, the stock pressure plate of 1820 Lbs will need to be upgraded. I have a friend at work who is a drifter and worked for bully dog telling me the clutch disk is not the primary key, it is the pressure plate, but when you think about it, it has to do with surface area vs. clamping force, and if you get the same force on a smaller surface area, your friction goes up hence the puck style clutch discs.

Now for part numbers I can verify and know about.

First, the flywheel.
So far, three two possibilities.
The 2005-2015 Tacoma 4.0L V6, which has a 10.75" disc, same as the Land Cruiser. I'm trying to get a used one from the local clutch shop to see fitment. This is ideal, because this engine had the bolt-on factory supercharger and puts out close to the 3UZ. The ring gear will need to be R&R, but it looks like the ring mount surface might be the same as the 3.4L. Way the heck too big. The ring gear leaves about 0.100" if it were turned down to fit. Big disappointment, that.

The 2004 Tundra 3.4L V6 5VZFE. This one works with only the hole egg operation! The catch is the original automatic ring gear plate is retained and this flywheel slides on in front of it. This gives you both the original spacing for the starter AND gives you close to 10" clutch disk diameter, since these took 9.75" discs.
The total crankshaft bolt dept: 22mm crank surface to bolt bottom out. Spacer plus flex plate measured with dial caliper: 29mm. Clutch thickness ~12mm. So ignoring the flex plate and spacer, say they are 34mm, or 1.33 (1.25-1.375). M10x1.25.

Part numbers:
Perfection Clutch 50-135 (from Rock Auto, the one I confirmed fit with), $41
LUK LFW199 $57.79 (Rock Auto Price)
Brute Power FW9135 Autozone $86
Pioneer FW-322 Autozone $152
Sachs NFW6939 Autozone $86

This larger flywheel opens up more options. I no longer need to modify the 350Z clutch disk, there is more plate area and I need all I can get.

While we are here, the flex plate is 3210150010 for the 3UZ. Looks like the same number for the 2UZ.

There are three considerations, the gear pitch, the outer diameter, and the distance from the crankshaft.
I bought one from Oddesy fab: 1UZ 2UZ 3UZ Manual Transmission Flywheel
It was $275 delivered to my door. I also bought a flywheel off rock auto for $50, the LUK LFW196, from a 1990 Toyota 4Runner 3.0L.
I am 99% sure Odessy just milled this flywheel (which is what I was already planning on doing before this came). The inner diameter is a perfect fit on on the crank.
The hole diameter is about .062 interference fit hence needing to egg the bolt holes which I will do with a 27/64 end mill. I don't know why it is not metric, but this endmill is a perfect fit.
Other suppliers of this flywheeel are
XAT OEM Style 1UZ V8 Flywheel (per Effjay76), and UZ to CD/JK Swap Components.
the latter I bought the bell housing adapter from to convert to the CD00A. They claim their flywheels are machined from billet, and I believe them. Their adapter is very nice. I don't know if the flywheel will fit a H55F application.

The Pilot Bearing
For the H55F/H44, A 6002 bearing fits perfectly. Theoretically you can pack grease behind the bearing then use a tight fitting bolt and tap it through the center with hydraulic pressure pushing the bearing out. For the CD00A, I just ordered some 6804 (32x20x7) sealed bearings and I will turn a steel bushing for the input shaft, since it is 15.4mm.

Clutch Disc
I found someone that can make this disk shipped to me for around $235. I contacted Brandin over at California Clutch (brandinedwards@californiaclutch.com) who said it would be about a week lead time. I will go this route since I don't want to destroy my imput shaft with the Jeep application ( see below). I just have to let him know what I want. Nice to have someone that can do that. Please speak up if anyone knows of someone else.

The clutch disc is a crown J8132577, it and slides on the shaft. JCWhitney ebay store is the cheapest place to get it, $86& free shipping. Jeggs is $79 but $20 shipping for $92.
I can confirm the ACT 3000801*DOES NOT* fit, even though it is supposed to fit a 80-83 Jeep cj5 2.5L.
The stock 350Z clutch disc works for the CD00A (M-PACT 99688-D) from rock auto, however it is about 1/4" too big to fit in the 98725. I'm going to order the ACT T023 and see if that 350Z disc will fit. If not, I get to find yet another disc. I'll just use the 3.4L flywheel/clutch.

Now that I bought 3 of those J8132577, I started looking at the splines, and the reason the ACT doesn't fit but this one does is that it's a little smaller diameter. However, the big issue I see is that the tooth profile does not match. The Jeep application is square while the Toyota is triangular, which means the clutch will be wearing on a point on the input shaft and will eventually destroy it, since the corner of the tooth will be hitting the sloped section of the input shaft, so now I'm looking at potentially taking the center (which is just riveted) from the Toyota disc and mating it with a disc that fits the flywheel. I'll have a look at that Kupp disc and see if I can convert it. If so, that would be a nice way to go for $115 plus some sweat equity. It's not super critical that the clutch disc is perfectly balanced, since it slides in the pressure plate anyway and the little bit it might be off should be insignificant compared to the flywheel weight.

The pressure plate (5VZ-FE): This engine produces ~190HP and 220FtLbs torque.
I have no idea about any of these plates, but I'm going to buy one so I have it for fit.
SPC-XT56035TTNDHP5-CC - Stage 5 with only 2100lbs Clamp? 389HP, 359lb-ft from SPC, whoever they are, $80 to my door. THIS DOES NOT FIT! See above and below.

The pressure plate(MR2):
I figure I need (1820/224)*320 = 2600 for the 2UZ application (stock MR2 1820@224 vs x@320), so according to the chart below, ACT extreme would be needed for a 2UZ.

I can confirm that the M_PACT 98725 pressure plate fits the LUK FW196 flywheel, which I bought so I have something to play with.
I also called M-PACT, and they did not have info on the 98725, but said typically it's 25% more than needed by the application.
They did say their 98725-HD is 2200 lbs.
I've found other forums who say stock is 1820 per ACT.

A recount from here:MR2 Forum
3SGTE stock 1820lbs (confirmed with ACT)
Exedy Stage 2 2090lbs
Competetion Clutch Stage 2 to 5 2200lbs
ACT HD - 2400 lbs clamp load (confirmed with ACT) T023
ACT Xtreme - 2800 lbs clamp load (confirmed with ACT)
ACT MAXX Xtreme - ???? lbs clamp load (ACT support desk couldn't give me a figure )
Looks like the KUPP stage 4 will handle the 2UZ, and it's a lot cheaper than the ACT T023 pressure plate alone.
Kupp Racing 4560294, $115 from ebay KUPP STAGE 4 CLUTCH KIT FOR 90-93 TOYOTA CELICA ALL-TRAC 91-95 MR-2 TURBO 3SGTE.
I can confirm the KUPP Stage 4 clutch kit for 9093 MR-2 turbo 3sgte (Horsepower Rating: 435 HP / Torque Capacity: 419 ft/lbs) DOES fit the flywheel.


Bell housing.
For the 1978 Toyota Corona, I already have the adapter from Pursuit of Perfection to fit the stock CD00A. All other applications want me to cut the bell housing off a brand new transmission, which I find pretty idiotic.

For the H55F, my current plan is to use the bell housing from these guys:
W55-58 Bell Housing
and build an adapter plate from the W55 to the H55, since the H55 appears to be about 3/4 inch longer shaft, so the plan is to use a piece of solid steel plate and align holes.
I have this adapter, and it is one hell of a heavy duty adapter. I have no doubt it is up to the task.

I just wish I had the front part of a W55,56,57,58, or G52 transmission to play with parts. Woo-ee. I bought a 76 Corona with engine/tranny on the side, and the transmission just happens to be one of these.

ECU
Speeduino. This is what runs many,many 3D printers. It has a ATMEGA2560 embedded controller. This has a breakout board/pin out is universal and cheap.
$20 ELGLOO Mega R3.
You mate this to a 'hat' from these guys:
UA4C
UA4C is the USA made board you want and you will need the mini-max-A2 signal conditioner that converts the hall effect position sensor to digital.
MiniMaxA2
I also advise getting the 36/2 wheel either from Toyota P/N: 19315-50020 or the junk yard - it is a lot more accurate for the pre-2000 1UZ engines. The 3U2/2UZ already have it.

I will say that if you pull one of these engines, be sure to get ECU, key reader, key immobilizer, and the key. If you don't, you are likely looking at a Speeduino because the immobilizer for the ECU is hell. Supposedly someone in russia can help you out. Heh. I got the speeduino up and running on the 1UZ in 2 days. I'm still trying to figure out the 3UZ that I have all of the above for besides the key. I will likely have to pull an EEPROM on the ECU to enable new keys.
My Speeduino site is here for software for the speeduino:
Speeduino Build
I may do a coil-on-plug for the 1UZ, and I will update the site above with code and info if I do.


I will update as I make progress, very slowly I might add.
 
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all this is pretty cool.

I am mostly interested in the 78 corona (Crusier axle, what?) as I am building a 79 liftback right now for myself (1JZ/a340e) :)
 
Watching.
 
all this is pretty cool.

I am mostly interested in the 78 corona (Crusier axle, what?) as I am building a 79 liftback right now for myself (1JZ/a340e) :)
The FJ55 is the exact same width face-face as the corona axle. The FJ40 should be as well, and I know I can't get enough torque on the rear wheels to hurt that diff.! I plan on putting the widest 15" truck tire on the back with a good offset. I know I have an offset from the middle to the side...just hoping it's not too much. Both are spring perches so it makes for an easy mount. I have to figure out the axle wrap but will likely just put a bar bolted/welded to the axle that hits a cross member. Lots to figure out, unfortunately. Since the 78 Corona is my daily driver, I have to figure this out in little pieces. ooh. Just had a thought, why not use the short side both sides, cut the tube and I have a short axle I can get even wider tires on...Hmmm.
 
For computer and wiring for all 1uz and 2uz swaps you should add tweakdperformance. They make very very high quality wiring harnesses for these motors and you can control it with Link G4x. Probably the best possible solution for engine management for 1uz/2uz swaps. Link is the best out there. Theyll even do milspec bulkhead connectors for your firewall
 
If I was made of money, I might go that route, but I have the source code and know how to use it with the speeduino:) Besides, I could buy 6 Speeduinos and the wire to hook it up with just the the price of the G4x I did briefly look up. It would be hard to spend more money on the ECU than I spent on the motor and axle, in fact I think I could buy another motor and still be ahead. But it's too late for me, I'm afraid. I already have modifications I want to do to the Speeduino code and ECU because I am becoming more intrigued with this whole custom ECU thing. Since I have the hardware, the schematics, and the software, I can do what I want then contribute that back to other slightly crazy people like me. It has more to do with open hardware/source contributions than just getting the thing working. I have a failing FJ62 ECU I want to run the speeduino on which looks like it will be even easier than the 1UZ, and I have a buddy that wants to run his inline 5 with it.

Holy smokes, I looked at the wiring harness...$1400? I actually like wiring something like this, but I never expected that kind of change, but still, quality wiring harnesses are not cheap.
 
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all this is pretty cool.

I am mostly interested in the 78 corona (Crusier axle, what?) as I am building a 79 liftback right now for myself (1JZ/a340e) :)
79 Corolla lift back? That would be cool. Over double the HP will make quite fun aside from the missing stick, which for me would significantly downsize the fun factor.

It turns out that the right size 15" tire will get you something close to the stock 24" diameter. A 295/50R15 is 26.6" while the (mostly) stock 195/70R14 is 24.7, a little less than 2" increase in diameter and considerably wider (~4"). I am planning on cutting the existing inside fenders out and making new ones to accommodate the wider tires....and now I am getting pretty fixed on using two short axles, then just cut the axle tube to length, so I don't have to muck with an offset diff. The cut is relatively easy - it's just like a cut and turn on a SOA, but different. :)
 
Why not just do a fox 8.8 that’s already the right width and centered and actually has LSD options
 
Why not just do a fox 8.8 that’s already the right width and centered and actually has LSD options
Because I have lots of parts for Land Cruisers, spare axles on hand, and spare parts, and already have a brand new auto-locker. I also happen to like Toyota's engineering, where they built a diff that not only is the same front/rear, but can be removed from the axle and set up on a bench. I really dislike the mopar axles. I installed a new gear set for a friend on a Ford axle, it was painful and IMO it's just a poor design. besides, I like doing stuff that most people won't or don't do. They're probably the smart ones, though.
 
I have to stay out of the junk yards. I was looking for a 1Uz part, which I found, then thought I would just visit the LS430 one row over and now I have two perfectly good 3UZs that I need to figure out how to wire the stock ECU on since I scored the ECU, IMMU, and Key reader.
 
This is the Perfection Clutch 50-135 5VZ-FE flywheel that came in today. Super stoked that it's going to work with very little modification. These are 17/64 end mills with 7/16 shank.
This is the jig - it's an 1.25 iron pipe turned so one end is snug and the other is interference fit just by a tiny bit of file finish and 360 grit sand paper: The original flex plate is used as a guide, and those are 7/16 wooden dowels.

5VZ-FE-mill-start.jpg.sm.jpg


This is the finish up with some 7/16 bolts just snugged in by hand to keep it from moving.
5VZ-FE-mill-finish.jpg.sm.jpg


And finally, the fit on the crank:
5VZ-FE-fit.jpg.sm.jpg


Clearly the ring gear will need to come off there, but it does work, and of course using the factory flex plate is a must. I don't know why a piece of sheet metal with a gear on it is worth $400 while a flywheel with the same gear is $40.

So I ordered a new flex plate from https://partsouq.com. It is $167 to my door. Toyota/Lexus wants $400 MSRP, and if you are lucky you can get it for about $270 in the US. Car Spare Parts & Auto Accessories - https://carmarka.com shipping was too high. So one part is ready to roll. I bought new so I have a spare, and one of the flex plates has pretty worn teeth. That partsouq shipping was so fast it beat some orders from just two states over!
 
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all this is pretty cool.

I am mostly interested in the 78 corona (Crusier axle, what?) as I am building a 79 liftback right now for myself (1JZ/a340e) :)
So I just picked up a 81 Celica GT liftback that may become the vehicle for the retrofit. It has coil springs on the back, though and I'm not sure I can get the suspension I need with the body. But for the 1/4 mile, it's 350 pounds less with gives you a good part of a second!
 
How fast are you looking to go
I’d like to trap at least 140 in my 78
 
11 seconds is my goal, I'm not sure I care about trap? if I replace the glass with poly carb, that drops weight too. What I am really hoping is to keep it 11.5 so I don't need a roll, then on the 3rd run go all out and hit 10. I only want to do it once, though, which they wouldn't let me back on the track without a cage anyway. :) Probably a pipe dream, but one can always dream. Did some more measuring with the CD00A and the POP adapter, and it fits perfect with the stock flex plate and both factory spacers. Puts the clutch solidly on the splines. I'm digging into the Akina bell housing measurements now. 166mm from crank to housing surface.
 
How fast are you looking to go
I’d like to trap at least 140 in my 78
So how are you planning on getting 430+HP out of a 1JZ, which is about what you would need for 140 trap? 1JZ HP Sounds like it might be hard? I don't know. I chose the 1UZ because I know it can get to 500HP fairly easy, and 650 is possible without major mods. U1Z Fun
 
So how are you planning on getting 430+HP out of a 1JZ, which is about what you would need for 140 trap? 1JZ HP Sounds like it might be hard? I don't know. I chose the 1UZ because I know it can get to 500HP fairly easy, and 650 is possible without major mods. U1Z Fun

I’d like to make +500. Boost and good fuel.
 
I’d like to make +500. Boost and good fuel.
Sounds like an adventure for sure. Those guys in England on the 1UZ got 650, but it wasn't easy from what I can tell, and they killed two engines doing it. I guess their final number was 1K. Still need to see the complete vids to understand what, exactly blew the crank. I'm guessing oil but haven't had the time to watch them. They put on a show like they are normal people, but normal people don't do 3D cad, mechanical engineering, metallurgy, and CNC machining in their shop, so it kinda feels like a bit of sandbagging there. I suspect 500 will be pretty difficult for me even with the 1UZ. You are either braver than I am or have a lot more money! Probably both!
 
ClutchXperts Debacle

The pressure plate:
IMG_20230304_195708767_HDR.jpg

What the Sticker is Hiding:
IMG_20230305_114935656_HDR.jpg


And when you look that up it is Exedy's part number for a 1993-2002 Supra.
 
Here is the bottom part of the wrong pressure plate from ClutchXperts, and note it used to be yellow, but Exedy are all grey. I wonder what their paint cost is? 9.25 OD with a 5.75 ID
IMG_20230304_195506126.jpg

This is a LUK LFW199, with a 10"OD (friction surface) and a 6.25 ID, so essentially you will have 20 - 30% less surface area contacted by both flywheel and pressure plate. I'm guessing some people would not notice this, and would force the plate or drill the holes out.
And also note, the locating holes on the pressure plate above would have to be drilled out to fit.
IMG_20230304_195407935.jpg

So if you have a 95-04 Toyta 4runner, Tacoma, T100, or Tundra 3.4L, Do not buy any clutch part from ClutcheXperts.
 
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