200 favorite Rock Sliders (1 Viewer)

what are the best rock sliders for the 200?


  • Total voters
    311

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FWIW, we just made another batch of sliders live this morning. Will probably sell out fast.

I ordered the tube step sliders from Slee on January 11 and received them in San Diego on January 20, which is lightening fast compared to ordering sliders and other components for this and my prior builds. (Hello, Gobi, are you listening?) And, hats off to the freight company. The card board box in which the sliders arrived was pristine and Slee did a great job packaging everything to protect the sliders.

I spent a good part of the weekend installing them by myself with a floor jack to position the sliders. If you plan to tackle this job: (1) Make sure you have a 17/32 drill bit before you start. I spent too many hours on Saturday driving to various stores looking for the drill bit, which is not carried at HD, Ace, HF, etc. and I was lucky to find one; (2) Don't hesitate to sharpen the bit as you go along. Had I done so, instead of waiting until the bit practically stopped cutting, I would have saved a lot of time; and (3) Use your phone or a tablet to look at the pictures in the instructions. The pictures in the printed instructions accompanying the sliders are too grainy, which makes it difficult to determine where to drill.

The sliders look like the stock running boards from a distance, which I like. They are lighter than OPOR sliders that I put on my old 4Runner and Demello sliders that I put on a Taco, but I do feel the added weight when I drive. I hope they are as strong as folks have reported on this board.
 
I've had my SLEE sliders with lights for almost two years and they still look like new and the lights work great.

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It's funny, I never see the MT sliders on 200's but they are common other Toyota models. I ran a set of their sliders on my 2012 FJC and I was very happy with them. I just checked freight for having them shipped and it's nearly $600 to Texas, that's insane. Slee sliders are over $200 cheaper and nearly $300 less on the freight using the same company, I can't justify the extra $500 for the MT sliders.

I love the MT sliders.
Had them on my 100-series too.
F7A9D4AC-C581-47FC-B6EC-E6DF179D5F4D.jpeg
 
I ordered the tube step sliders from Slee on January 11 and received them in San Diego on January 20, which is lightening fast compared to ordering sliders and other components for this and my prior builds. (Hello, Gobi, are you listening?) And, hats off to the freight company. The card board box in which the sliders arrived was pristine and Slee did a great job packaging everything to protect the sliders.

I spent a good part of the weekend installing them by myself with a floor jack to position the sliders. If you plan to tackle this job: (1) Make sure you have a 17/32 drill bit before you start. I spent too many hours on Saturday driving to various stores looking for the drill bit, which is not carried at HD, Ace, HF, etc. and I was lucky to find one; (2) Don't hesitate to sharpen the bit as you go along. Had I done so, instead of waiting until the bit practically stopped cutting, I would have saved a lot of time; and (3) Use your phone or a tablet to look at the pictures in the instructions. The pictures in the printed instructions accompanying the sliders are too grainy, which makes it difficult to determine where to drill.

The sliders look like the stock running boards from a distance, which I like. They are lighter than OPOR sliders that I put on my old 4Runner and Demello sliders that I put on a Taco, but I do feel the added weight when I drive. I hope they are as strong as folks have reported on this board.

I recently install the Slee step sliders as well. To add to this I would recommend a few things. 1) you can get a 17/32 bit from automotive stores. My local Napa had a silver demming bit. I would just buy the one from Slee or Amazon. Cobalt would be best. 2) I bought a 15/32 Milwaukee cobalt bit from HD to open the holes up first. IMO the 17/32 bit gets chewed up real quick and you'll need to sharpen it. The Milwaukee bit made quick work of the frame holes and it was easy for the 17/32 bit to do the rest of the work. Cutting oil helps too. 3) if you don't want to spend the afternoon destroying your forearms I would recommend a rivnut tool. You can get one from Amazon. Saves time and aggravation over the wrench and ratchet method.

Amazon product ASIN B003TODXQW
Otherwise the rest of the install was straight forward and the directions pretty accurate. I don't know what kind of rivnut inserts Slee uses but as an alternative Mopar has M8 same pitch rivnut inserts that they use for Ram 1500 side steps. They're a little larger than 17/32 but the flange is larger and they seem quite a bit beefier. You can use those as well. I had to use one for a rivnut I messed up and had a few of the Mopar ones hanging around from a previous project. I think it's Mopar part # 68044460AA and they come in a kit. At the very least you know they are automotive rated rivnuts. If I could do it again I may have gone with those.

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White Knuckle. Great guy, good product. I don’t like the U-bolt design for reason if deflection mentioned about, but what’s knuckle give about the same clearance from his slider to the body as BudBuilt. So while a white knuckle deflects, it has the space to not hit the truck.

Went with WKO cuz they local and seem like they build a quality product. I think older models (80 series) is a U-bolt design.
For 200 it is a drill a couple holes and tap a few existing holes.
But appreciate the run down of the different options and your experience with them.

I was gonna go with SLEE for the aesthetics and the fact that I don't plan on hard crawling
But couldn't pass up on WKO for the price and that they are local and save a bunch on shipping....
Plus they seem like good dudes

Will post when I install them
 
Slee hands down for me.

Why?

The low gloss finish perfectly matches that of my ARB Summit front and Slee rear bumper/tire carrier/ladder/jerry can holder.

I figure that for our mild off-reading, travel to state parks, Starbucks/Kroger curbs, etc., the looks mattered more.
 
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I too, went with WKO. Quality product, nicely finished with the powder coat, right price especially with the Black Friday sale, and local. No shipping cost.

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nice

I'm still debating the 0 deg vs angled. I have 3 kids but looks like the angled is still a good step
How do you like the angled.
shipping was $150 to Pasadena....drive time is 4 hours round trip....
When they are ready I may try to drive out and get them and just install them there and head off to a trip to save the shipping costs...

also debating the top plate.
I ordered diamond plate for now in the rear only but kind liking the dimpled too....
 
nice

I'm still debating the 0 deg vs angled. I have 3 kids but looks like the angled is still a good step
How do you like the angled.
shipping was $150 to Pasadena....drive time is 4 hours round trip....
When they are ready I may try to drive out and get them and just install them there and head off to a trip to save the shipping costs...

also debating the top plate.
I ordered diamond plate for now in the rear only but kind liking the dimpled too....
I have 3 kids as well (12 and under now )and went with flat with diamond plate. Mine are Budbuilt but that part doesn't matter. I've had them for maybe 4 years and only once did I have a scenario where I needed the flat. The one time was my elderly mother who had just gotten out of the hospital. Pretty sure she woulda struggled to get into a Camry at that point. Not ever with kids, they can climb anything and an angled step is still a step. If I could go back I'd do angled, just aesthetically I think looks better and that much less likely to get scratched up.

Top plate I could go either way. Top plate traps a lotta mud/dirt, but that's also mud/dirt that woulda ended up spraying onto the doors. Young kids i could see a little foot getting stuck especially with angled, but never actually known anybody who complained.
 
I have 3 kids as well (12 and under now )and went with flat with diamond plate. Mine are Budbuilt but that part doesn't matter. I've had them for maybe 4 years and only once did I have a scenario where I needed the flat. The one time was my elderly mother who had just gotten out of the hospital. Pretty sure she woulda struggled to get into a Camry at that point. Not ever with kids, they can climb anything and an angled step is still a step. If I could go back I'd do angled, just aesthetically I think looks better and that much less likely to get scratched up.

Top plate I could go either way. Top plate traps a lotta mud/dirt, but that's also mud/dirt that woulda ended up spraying onto the doors. Young kids i could see a little foot getting stuck especially with angled, but never actually known anybody who complained.
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I went with WK angled with no plates. Looks great!!! Best decision for my needs and still very functional. Angle looks good and still is a good enough step. Debated a lot on the rear top plate and decided if I wanted it later it is very easy to add (can buy separate) with clamps, but if you get at the start and take it off you have welded brackets showing. Just FYI, I tried putting some anti slide step tape and then took that off because it was always catching the my calf when getting out of the LC. Kept the small piece on the back step part for now.
 
I just installed a set of Budbuilt sliders on my '21 HE last weekend. I am no regular wrencher, but was able to do it by myself over maybe 8 hours or so. Dealing with the KDSS was the biggest challenge. I did the flat sliders with top diamond plate and no kick out. They honestly might be more than I need (they are damn beefy), but I did not want to drill into the frame of my LC. I ordered them in 2021 during Black Friday but just got around to installing them. I love them as a step to get to the top of the rig, but they are an obstacle to get around while climbing into and out of the rig, especially when wet.

Time will tell, but I think they were the right choice. I have the angled WKO sliders on my 60 (bought it that way), and those are great also.
 
nice

I'm still debating the 0 deg vs angled. I have 3 kids but looks like the angled is still a good step
How do you like the angled.
shipping was $150 to Pasadena....drive time is 4 hours round trip....
When they are ready I may try to drive out and get them and just install them there and head off to a trip to save the shipping costs...

also debating the top plate.
I ordered diamond plate for now in the rear only but kind liking the dimpled too....
With the anti-slip tape, entry is much easier than before. Since I have not tried the 0 degree, I don't have anything to compare. Now, I can step up on the slider and plop down in the seat without feeling like I am climbing a mountain.
 
I'm very happy with my Dissent sliders. They make an excellent step, are surprisingly light, and more than capable of me accidentally needing the protection (I don't wheel hard by any means, but wanted some protection just in case).
 
I still prefer the Slee sliders the most in terms of aesthetics. Has anyone tried the SDHQ sliders?
 
What's a good fuse to tap to trigger the LEDs under the sliders? From slee: The LED Light kit is wired into the existing circuit for the running board lights if vehicle is so equipped. The shop that installed my sliders used a source only triggered when the driver door is opened.

Does the LC200 come equipped with illuminated running boards?
 
What's a good fuse to tap to trigger the LEDs under the sliders? From slee: The LED Light kit is wired into the existing circuit for the running board lights if vehicle is so equipped. The shop that installed my sliders used a source only triggered when the driver door is opened.

Does the LC200 come equipped with illuminated running boards?
Could be wrong but believe the LX had illuminated running boards and the LC did not.
 

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