Builds "The Milk Truck" FJ45 Preservation Sorta (1 Viewer)

[Tank5]

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I put the hood on tonight for the up coming special day. I had to repair some stress cracks on it. The hing pins seem to work well and I am happy I was able to keep the original hinges.

 

[Tank5]

Today was the day. I got the 45 together enough to take it for a short drive. I have been adding and working on pieces of the build that I will share shortly but today didn’t go as I had hopped.
Here is ready to go.

I turned the key and if fired right up ready to go. When I put it in gear it got shy and wouldn’t go. I tried every gear, high and low rang in the transfer case, activated the CDL, and tried various combinations of all. The engine changes RPM slightly as if engaging the transmission under load but it doesn’t do anything.

The little trouble shooting I did was check the harness plugs to confirm everything is plugged in.

Regardless of the shifter wiring my general thought process is that as long as I physically shift the shifter linkage into drive it should at least go into drive. Please correct me if that is not correct.

If my above thinking is correct then the issue must be in the transmission. I bought the transmission off of eBay 5 years ago advertised as having 139k and in good condition. So I have no confirmation that it is good.

Thoughts, what should I look at before I have to pull it out? I appreciate the help in advance.

 

[Bripars40]

Today was the day. I got the 45 together enough to take it for a short drive. I have been adding and working on pieces of the build that I will share shortly but today didn’t go as I had hopped.
Here is ready to go.
View attachment 3147699

I turned the key and if fired right up ready to go. When I put it in gear it got shy and wouldn’t go. I tried every gear, high and low rang in the transfer case, activated the CDL, and tried various combinations of all. The engine changes RPM slightly as if engaging the transmission under load but it doesn’t do anything.

The little trouble shooting I did was check the harness plugs to confirm everything is plugged in.

Regardless of the shifter wiring my general thought process is that as long as I physically shift the shifter linkage into drive it should at least go into drive. Please correct me if that is not correct.

If my above thinking is correct then the issue must be in the transmission. I bought the transmission off of eBay 5 years ago advertised as having 139k and in good condition. So I have no confirmation that it is good.

Thoughts, what should I look at before I have to pull it out? I appreciate the help in advance.

Did you check the transmission fluid level while it was running and in park? Sounds like it may be low on fluid.

 

[Tank5]

Did you check the transmission fluid level while it was running and in park? Sounds like it may be low on fluid.

I did not but I had filled it previously after running it. I will check it again while running it definitely could be low still.

 

[Tank5]

Well, adding fluid would have been the easiest fix. Heck that is exactly what it needed, thanks @Bripars40, it wasn't low by much per the dipstick but I topped it off and it wants to go in drive and reverse. Sadly the sun has gone down, so the test drive will have to wait until tomorrow. I suppose I will take some fluid with me for the short drive just incase. I am not sure how long it will take to fill the torque converter if it is not full already. Awesome, can't wait!

 

[EWheeler]

Well, adding fluid would have been the easiest fix. Heck that is exactly what it needed, thanks @Bripars40, it wasn't low by much per the dipstick but I topped it off and it wants to go in drive and reverse. Sadly the sun has gone down, so the test drive will have to wait until tomorrow. I suppose I will take some fluid with me for the short drive just incase. I am not sure how long it will take to fill the torque converter if it is not full already. Awesome, can't wait!

That is so awesome it was the simple solution. Look forward to seeing it in the daylight!!!

 

[Tank5]

Well my last problem was solved quickly with the help of mud, so figured I see if anyone can help me with this next project. I have gone through several different options for switches and currently I am looking as using all back lit illuminated knobs. The driver behind this is for the three lockers. When pulled and the locker engages it will illuminate the knob as confirmation. The three blank knobs are the lockers and to keep the look consistent I would like to find someone that can make me decals for each knob. I would prefer them to be Text such as “CENTER LOCKER” instead of a symbol.

Does anyone know anyone that makes custom decals for something like this?

 

[mrboatman]

Try This

 

[Tank5]

Try This

Thanks I sent him a message. I have bought some of his decals in the past. I would like to find someone that can make a two tone decal, white lettering with black surround, if not I will have to improvise or go with Plan B.

 

[Bripars40]

This is what I just purchased and he’s making me a “center locker” knob this week. It’s not backlight but he might have an idea for how to do it

This item is unavailable - Etsy

Find the perfect handmade gift, vintage & on-trend clothes, unique jewelry, and more… lots more.

www.etsy.com

 

[Tank5]

This is what I just purchased and he’s making me a “center locker” knob this week. It’s not backlight but he might have an idea for how to do it

This item is unavailable - Etsy

Find the perfect handmade gift, vintage & on-trend clothes, unique jewelry, and more… lots more.

www.etsy.com

My original plan was to use some vintage knobs and had him make me a set. I have a full set from him that works with my lockers, not backlit obviously, so I have a full set of non-illuminated knobs I can switch too if I don’t find a decal option I like for the illuminated knobs. I have a few options and they are all custom. I am just being picky trying to find something that gives consistency on the dash.

I found a guy on Etsy that says he can make me decals like I am looking for. If it works out, I will post up. Still hunting for options until I find one.

 

[UZJ40]

Are you going to have the backlight turn on when the knob is pulled? Or when the locker has actually slid into position?

 

[Tank5]

Are you going to have the backlight turn on when the knob is pulled? Or when the locker has actually slid into position?

For the locker switches it will be when the the locker engages at least for the Center Diff Lock, the Eaton Lockers might just be when the knob is pulled, since they don’t have a separate indicator for engagement.

The lights, hazards, and wiper switches I may set them up to be backlit when the dash lights are turned on.

 

[Tank5]

The wind is blowing like crazy and it is 43 degrees outside today but it is an awesome day to go for a drive, so I took it into the wild on it’s first drive. It is pretty awesome! It seems the shifter is working in all gears, so I can move past that.

It moves pretty good. I drove it out to the end of the road and put it on pavement to take it up to speed. It did great, nothing seems to be leaking. It has a slight smell but I think it is the exhaust burning the ceramic coating. The brakes work great but I think I will adjust the pedal height to make it more comfortable.

I took a video, it is pretty crappy, the wind is blowing pretty hard and the bed held on by 4 bolts is rattling. If I decide to post it I will add a link here.

Here it is outside

 

[Tank5]

When I built both bumpers I made sure the bottom bolt pattern would line up with 80 series recovery mounting points. I purchased shackle mounts for the front and rear, then painted them because I didn’t like the orange. The mounts in the rear have well placed hole the I eventually intend to use to mount a skid plate for the fuel tank.

 

[Bripars40]

The wind is blowing like crazy and it is 43 degrees outside today but it is an awesome day to go for a drive, so I took it into the wild on it’s first drive. It is pretty awesome! It seems the shifter is working in all gears, so I can move past that.

It moves pretty good. I drove it out to the end of the road and put it on pavement to take it up to speed. It did great, nothing seems to be leaking. It has a slight smell but I think it is the exhaust burning the ceramic coating. The brakes work great but I think I will adjust the pedal height to make it more comfortable.

I took a video, it is pretty crappy, the wind is blowing pretty hard and the bed held on by 4 bolts is rattling. If I decide to post it I will add a link here.

Here it is outside

View attachment 3148284

View attachment 3148285

View attachment 3148288

View attachment 3148289

Congratulations!! Looks great and I’m glad it was a good first drive for you!

 

[Vossie]

Today was the day. I got the 45 together enough to take it for a short drive. I have been adding and working on pieces of the build that I will share shortly but today didn’t go as I had hopped.
Here is ready to go.
View attachment 3147699

I turned the key and if fired right up ready to go. When I put it in gear it got shy and wouldn’t go. I tried every gear, high and low rang in the transfer case, activated the CDL, and tried various combinations of all. The engine changes RPM slightly as if engaging the transmission under load but it doesn’t do anything.

The little trouble shooting I did was check the harness plugs to confirm everything is plugged in.

Regardless of the shifter wiring my general thought process is that as long as I physically shift the shifter linkage into drive it should at least go into drive. Please correct me if that is not correct.

If my above thinking is correct then the issue must be in the transmission. I bought the transmission off of eBay 5 years ago advertised as having 139k and in good condition. So I have no confirmation that it is good.

Thoughts, what should I look at before I have to pull it out? I appreciate the help in advance.

Only seeing this now and happy you got it sorted. Had the exact same thing happen to me when I went for my first test drive. The torque convertor really takes quite a bit to refill and it took me a while to get the box full enough to engage.

Stoked you got it sorted though. How does she move? Peppy or the big tyres take a bit of oomph to turn?

 

[Tank5]

Only seeing this now and happy you got it sorted. Had the exact same thing happen to me when I went for my first test drive. The torque convertor really takes quite a bit to refill and it took me a while to get the box full enough to engage.

Stoked you got it sorted though. How does she move? Peppy or the big tyres take a bit of oomph to turn?

Thanks, I feel like it has pep. The 4.88 gears help deal with the big heavy wheels. I didn’t have doors or seat belts, so I didn’t get crazy with it. It has plenty of go for me .

 

[UZJ40]

For the locker switches it will be when the the locker engages at least for the Center Diff Lock, the Eaton Lockers might just be when the knob is pulled, since they don’t have a separate indicator for engagement.

The lights, hazards, and wiper switches I may set them up to be backlit when the dash lights are turned on.

Something you could do that would be pretty slick is light up the switches with the dash lights, but running through a resistor so they are only at like 50-60% of their brightness. Then when the switch is pulled, it connects a full 12v, making it brighter. It will be easier to differentiate at night if you have one pulled, and you'd still be able to see them when they're off. You may have to experiment with different resistors to get the results you want.

This is how the tail/brake lights are wired on the buggies since they only have one wire going to the light. The light position is a reduced voltage, and brakes pushed is 100%.

 

[Tank5]

Something you could do that would be pretty slick is light up the switches with the dash lights, but running through a resistor so they are only at like 50-60% of their brightness. Then when the switch is pulled, it connects a full 12v, making it brighter. It will be easier to differentiate at night if you have one pulled, and you'd still be able to see them when they're off. You may have to experiment with different resistors to get the results you want.

This is how the tail/brake lights are wired on the buggies since they only have one wire going to the light. The light position is a reduced voltage, and brakes pushed is 100%.

You are right it would be pretty cool if they worked as you suggested. I will research it to if it is something I think I can figure out. Honestly I am ready to be done with the wiring but I still have a lot to do, seems like it never ends. The 4runner I parted out for the harness came with a 115v inverter set up. I am considering installing it and creating a plug access for it through the old gas filler cap in the corner of the cab. Although with increase in available battery powered power tools I am not sure how much it would get used. Lots to think about.

Thanks for directing me to the backlit lighting option.