Death of a 3UR (2 Viewers)

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Peekaboo
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Something is not right on the “new” motor either.
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Still trying to wrap my head around how they get that block clean enough for a paint job without completely tearing it down… I guess that’s fully “rebuilt”?
 
Peekaboo
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Something is not right on the “new” motor either.
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Wrong upper oil pan? Beyond that I can't tell.. (edit: part number matches 08-11 200 3UR, so I was wrong on that)

Still trying to wrap my head around how they get that block clean enough for a paint job without completely tearing it down… I guess that’s fully “rebuilt”?

They hosed a used engine off with solvent, let it dry (maybe), masked a couple things (maybe), then sprayed it with paint.
 
Wrong upper oil pan? Beyond that I can't tell.. (edit: part number matches 08-11 200 3UR, so I was wrong on that)



They hosed a used engine off with solvent, let it dry (maybe), masked a couple things (maybe), then sprayed it with paint.
Yeah, no oil level sensor on upper pan that should have been present on the described 2013 engine. Either the pan was swapped at the shop supplying the motor or the entire things is a bait/switch. I haven’t been available to pull the vin on the block yet. I have some options to resolve but it is another speed bump
 
Of all the threads in the 200 section this one captivates me with a keen interest trending toward dread. I keep pulling for success for the OP and witness the setbacks with stoic perseverance.
 
Let’s try again. “New” engine arrived today with the correct oil pan. Also on removing the old, the tech found the #2 fuel injector to be leaking. New theory: While parking (wife reported a sudden rough idle while putting it into park) the injector became stuck open or a seal failed. The cylinder filled enough with gasoline that it hydro locked during startup.
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Let’s try again. “New” engine arrived today with the correct oil pan. Also on removing the old, the tech found the #2 fuel injector to be leaking. New theory: While parking (wife reported a sudden rough idle while putting it into park) the injector became stuck open or a seal failed. The cylinder filled enough with gasoline that it hydro locked during startup.
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I believe hydrolock damage would be concentrated to the bottom end, you had a pic of a broken valve so I’m still in the bad valve spring camp. It would be interesting to see a tear down of the bottom end to see the #2 cylinder, rod and piston.
 
Let’s try again. “New” engine arrived today with the correct oil pan. Also on removing the old, the tech found the #2 fuel injector to be leaking. New theory: While parking (wife reported a sudden rough idle while putting it into park) the injector became stuck open or a seal failed. The cylinder filled enough with gasoline that it hydro locked during startup.
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What is the ETA of getting the new engine back in? I might drive down for the first startup!!
 
I believe hydrolock damage would be concentrated to the bottom end, you had a pic of a broken valve so I’m still in the bad valve spring camp. It would be interesting to see a tear down of the bottom end to see the #2 cylinder, rod and piston.
Will be popping the valve cover off before sending back the core. If I have time I want to pull the head too while there.
 
What is the ETA of getting the new engine back in? I might drive down for the first startup!!
They think they can get it by next week. Not a single timeline has been met so far so I’m not making plans yet, but that has mainly been on the engine acquisition side.
 
Gotta have more pics. Is the old engine out? What about flushing the trans. now? Has to be easier with the engine out of the way.
 
There she is. One spring became 3.

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Engine is in and running fine now on it's 3rd cycle of fresh oil and about 50 miles. Dug into my vehicle's service history and found something interesting from before I owned it.

Looks like there was some trouble but the dealership couldn't figure it out.
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Shortly after, it comes back and they found a cracked spark plug on #2!
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PO dumps it and I pick it up. There is an open recall on the fuel pump and I get it done. The shop calls me to report they needed to keep it longer because it was not running correctly. Their notes show a fuel pressure issue and they put in another pump. "was fine"
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Now I have it and I get a Cyl #2 misfire some time later. I did not know about the plugs before or previous misfire and figure that the mileage was right for a change and start with "spark" to diagnose the misfire. Along with new plugs, #2 coil pack gets swapped with #4 to see if the misfire chases it, and the plugs looked like they were in good shape (yeah, they were less than a year old).

The misfire code never comes back. I did have the occasional rough start that would engage limp mode, but it never triggered a code and a restart would put everything back to normal.

That leads us to this beauty
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So here is my hindsight, and someone that knows better is free to correct me, but maybe this can help save someone else later. The techs I spoke with say that this is a known issue (short of a TSB) and they have replaced many 3UR's, but I got to be their first Land Cruiser. The vehicle was trying to tell me something and I didn't listen. The misfire and rough starts (attributed to CDL in several threads) may have been the leaky injector, a failing spring, or both. They were shrugged off for Land Cruiser reliability as just an occasional inconvenience. It seems to me that if you get a misfire in this engine, and you cannot confirm bad spark out of the gate, look deeper.
 
Bumping this thread as the same thing just happened to my 200. 2010 with 200,000 miles. #5 exhaust valve broke. Truck was running fine cruising at highway speed when all of a sudden the dash lit up like a Christmas tree and had a bad miss. Similar backstory as well, a few months ago got the check VSC system, CEL and 4Low lights. Did a search here and several people had encountered the same thing. So I did what others here had done and cleared the codes, unhooked the battery and everything was fine for several months. When it happened again this time I definitely wasn’t expecting a broken valve spring. Very thankful that the valve did not drop in the cylinder and so far it looks like it’s avoided the catastrophic damage. As of right now I’m definitely leaning towards just replacing all the valve springs as PM while we’re in there. Just think it would be foolish to replace just the broken one leaving the possibility for another to break, especially after dodging the bullet this time.
 
Bumping this thread as the same thing just happened to my 200. 2010 with 200,000 miles. #5 exhaust valve broke. Truck was running fine cruising at highway speed when all of a sudden the dash lit up like a Christmas tree and had a bad miss. Similar backstory as well, a few months ago got the check VSC system, CEL and 4Low lights. Did a search here and several people had encountered the same thing. So I did what others here had done and cleared the codes, unhooked the battery and everything was fine for several months. When it happened again this time I definitely wasn’t expecting a broken valve spring. Very thankful that the valve did not drop in the cylinder and so far it looks like it’s avoided the catastrophic damage. As of right now I’m definitely leaning towards just replacing all the valve springs as PM while we’re in there. Just think it would be foolish to replace just the broken one leaving the possibility for another to break, especially after dodging the bullet this time.
I would do all the springs and buy a few lottery tickets while you’re at it.
 
I would do all the springs and buy a few lottery tickets while you’re at it.
That’s exactly what @Bryanseye said when I talked to him earlier. Must mention he’s been a big help with great insight on this problem.

I’m going to go ahead and put my flame suit on for this next statement- I may be wrong but I could see this problem being similar to the head gasket issue in the 80 series. Talked so a couple independent shops that work on a lot of Toyotas, more Tundras and Sequoias than Cruisers but both have seen this happen. I fell there has to be something inherently wrong here considering how odd this kind of failure is.
 
That’s exactly what @Bryanseye said when I talked to him earlier. Must mention he’s been a big help with great insight on this problem.

I’m going to go ahead and put my flame suit on for this next statement- I may be wrong but I could see this problem being similar to the head gasket issue in the 80 series. Talked so a couple independent shops that work on a lot of Toyotas, more Tundras and Sequoias than Cruisers but both have seen this happen. I fell there has to be something inherently wrong here considering how odd this kind of failure is.
I’d be interested in putting together data on build date of rigs with failed springs to see whether there is an apparent cut off in this issue.

A failure on OP’s 2014 means mine is likely at risk, but still finding out whether there was some improvement for 16 or whatever would be good for those owners to know.
 
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That’s exactly what @Bryanseye said when I talked to him earlier. Must mention he’s been a big help with great insight on this problem.

I’m going to go ahead and put my flame suit on for this next statement- I may be wrong but I could see this problem being similar to the head gasket issue in the 80 series. Talked so a couple independent shops that work on a lot of Toyotas, more Tundras and Sequoias than Cruisers but both have seen this happen. I fell there has to be something inherently wrong here considering how odd this kind of failure is.
They have seen this on the 5.7 in all three models? I ask because I was under the assumption that the Cruiser has the only 5.7 that’s built in Japan. I would like to think this would insulate it some from sharing a similar parts failure but if Toyota sources all the springs from the same supplier then it could make sense to see the failure across multiple models.
 
I'm not sure having a valve spring fail at 200,000 miles constitutes a "problem". What I mean by that is everything fails at some point and that's a whole lotta miles. It'd be one thing if the springs were failing at 60-80k miles.

What would be interesting to see is about what mileage they fail, so then all of us would know to go ahead and replace them all at say, 150,000 miles or something
 

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