2004 Land Cruiser : Radiator Leak (1 Viewer)

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I installed a Mexico spec OEM radiator from my local dealer. it was around $375 vs. $497 for the other OEM option. Everything looks the same to me besides the radiator cap but I ordered another one separately anyways. Also got the drive belt, upper and lower hoses, thermostat, various gaskets/clamps, and 3x red coolant.. all together was $600 shipped. With the help of a friend, we were able to tackle the entire job within 2.5 hours really taking our time.
 
Thanks for all the good info. Unfortunately I don’t have the time to tackle this myself especially with a beach trip coming up. Dropped it off this morning at my local guy who’s done all needed work for the past 7 years of my ownership (except my MFD/gateway ECU issue from last summer). Thanks to all that posted to help.
 
I installed a Mexico spec OEM radiator from my local dealer. it was around $375 vs. $497 for the other OEM option. Everything looks the same to me besides the radiator cap but I ordered another one separately anyways. Also got the drive belt, upper and lower hoses, thermostat, various gaskets/clamps, and 3x red coolant.. all together was $600 shipped. With the help of a friend, we were able to tackle the entire job within 2.5 hours really taking our time.
You show 2006 in signture line. Which take Toyota SLL (Pink). You can use 2 x Toy LL (RED) and 2 x gallons distilled water. But if you do, need to use Toy LL (RED) less of 30K miles or 2 yr. flush schedule.
 
Definetly don't add that liquid stop leak crap into your system .
Why not? I'm genuinely asking because I just don't know the long term effects of stop leak on the 2uz coolant passages and such. If one had to add stop leak to get off a trail or home would a good flush and radiator replace after adding stop leak clean everything up good enough?
 
Why not? I'm genuinely asking because I just don't know the long term effects of stop leak on the 2uz coolant passages and such. If one had to add stop leak to get off a trail or home would a good flush and radiator replace after adding stop leak clean everything up good enough?
Stop leak ‘fixes’ small leaks, if it’s small I’d think you’d be able to get off the trail without adding it. Any liquid that gums up to prevent leaks I would assume could do the same in a cooling passage. If it was a beater that you don’t care about sure, but a nice Hundy that runs forever if you give them love… probably not.

Not an expert so take my option with a grain of salt, I’d never put it in any of my fleet regardless of age.
 
Stop leak ‘fixes’ small leaks, if it’s small I’d think you’d be able to get off the trail without adding it. Any liquid that gums up to prevent leaks I would assume could do the same in a cooling passage. If it was a beater that you don’t care about sure, but a nice Hundy that runs forever if you give them love… probably not.

Not an expert so take my option with a grain of salt, I’d never put it in any of my fleet regardless of age.
Yea those are my thoughts too, im hoping some experts (or non-experts) can weigh in and provide empirical evidence of failures that have happened down the road after stop leak usage. I would think it also depends how small the passages are. For instance, does a 2F have larger passages than a 1FZ or 2UZ? So maybe it's ok for some engines and not others...
 
Why not? I'm genuinely asking because I just don't know the long term effects of stop leak on the 2uz coolant passages and such. If one had to add stop leak to get off a trail or home would a good flush and radiator replace after adding stop leak clean everything up good enough?
I've just seen it corrode and nasty up some systems. Not sure the science behind it but it's goal is to goop up and stop leaks from the inside, typically for blown head gaskets and what not.

Best I can tell you is the 2UZ is a predictable and reliable motor. Maintain your cooling system and it won't be an issue. I can't think of any on trail damage that the stop leak could help unless you overheated and started to fry some stuff. If you go desperate and had to use it for some reason, then yeah an immediate flush would be a good thing to do.

If used it in the past on old dying hondas with low compression and other small engine situations when the engine was on it's way out anyway. Coolant ends up looking like mushy clay .
 
I avoid all stop leaks, if I can.

If a head gasket coolant leak. Well, may be replacing engine anyway.

The areas where issue maybe seen, with coolant stop leak:
Block drains, freezing up (glued). I've seen!
Thermostat, it's seal and jiggle valve. I've seen!
Oil cooler. Can't say I've seen, as difficult part to get into! But I have seen FIPG and heater tee plastic bits, clog (slow) it. Stop leak may add too the clog.
Radiator passages. Can't say I've seen, as not cut open. But typically replacing afterwards anyway.
Water pump. Can't say I've seen, as not cut open. But it has a weep hole, that does get clogged. But typically replacing afterwards.

Stop leak in power steering:
Low presser line flare glue on line. Seen! Can't remove without damaging line pipe.
May damage idle up control valve.
Any leak point now get glued. So that point will need service sooner or later.
 
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cool, thanks. That all makes sense. Anyone else have any 2uz specific stop leak disaster stories? (or 1FZ or 2F, 1F, etc for that matter).
 
I have a 2005 that needs the radiator replaced.
Does anyone know why they are still selling the 210, 211 and 212's if they have been replaced by 50360?
16400-50360 from ToyotaPartsDeal is actually $370 right now. But why Toyota Wholesale Direct website suggests 50290 and not 50360?
The model year fitment between the two websites also confusing.

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I have a 2005 that needs the radiator replaced.
Does anyone know why they are still selling the 210, 211 and 212's if they have been replaced by 50360?
16400-50360 from ToyotaPartsDeal is actually $370 right now. But why Toyota Wholesale Direct website suggests 50290 and not 50360?
The model year fitment between the two websites also confusing.

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50360 is Mexican spec but works just fine. It’s cheaper if you can find it (not available everywhere), but it 100% works even though site compatibility checkers will tell you it’s wrong.

50290 is American spec. Generally more available but more expensive.

Also, order from a dealer—NOT ToyotaPartsDeal. If you don’t believe me, search for them on the forums—I wish I had.
 

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