Anyone have info on the valve stacks supplied directly from King in their 2.5 OEM shocks? I haven’t been able to get info from any of the custom tuning resellers, I just want to soften them up and order the valve stacks prior to pulling them apart.
OEM King 2.5’s valve stack info (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter onelittlestar
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- #3
Last I checked, he charges about $250 for his time to answer questions like this.
I find that surprising. However, I'm not sure he would charge you for this if you order the replacement parts through him.
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- #5
For anyone interested... spoke with KING and this was standard valving without compression adjusters for the 2.5's
Fronts
Comp .012 .012 .008 flutter .015 x5
Rebound .012 x6
Rear
Comp .010 .010 .008 flutter .015 x4
Rebound .012 x6
Fronts
Comp .012 .012 .008 flutter .015 x5
Rebound .012 x6
Rear
Comp .010 .010 .008 flutter .015 x4
Rebound .012 x6
bloc
SILVER Star
Thanks for posting.
What are your plans for softening? I know absolutely nothing about valving but have toyed with the idea of tweaking mine when it’s time for rebuild. I’ll have a lot of research to do..
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- #7
Haven’t decided yet. I need to talk to Ben and see if he’ll sell me some custom stacks instead of full stacks at thickness intervals. I have a garage full of shocks that are waiting to be rebuilt, so I bought all the tools necessary and will see if it’s worth my time to do them. I’m impatient and always prefer to DIY when possible
Moby
GOLD Star
It's fun to play with valving changes to really get things dialed to your liking, and it is not hard to replace shims and recharge (at least, I've done Bilstein and Radflo). It is not fun pulling the shocks off all the time to make changes. So working with a tuner that knows 200s, like Ben, is a great way to not have to take the shocks off 5 times (I did my Bilstein 7100s at least 5 times as I learned on my own, the Radflos I did once, working directly with Radflo).
I need to make some changes to mine, will be getting back in touch with Ben soon to make this a fall project.
I need to make some changes to mine, will be getting back in touch with Ben soon to make this a fall project.
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- #9
Revisiting this as I’ve started to get around to it…Accutune sells stacks, looks like the KING OTS stack I quoted earlier for the fronts are 80# compression, so I definitely plan on dropping that down, the rear is just as high with a slightly softer entry
It’s hot af down here right now and no hvac in the garage currently setup, so I’m in no rush…Just thought I’d update as I hadn’t noticed Accutune sold custom stacks, everywhere else I saw you needed to purchase full stacks at each thickness and then combine from there.
It’s hot af down here right now and no hvac in the garage currently setup, so I’m in no rush…Just thought I’d update as I hadn’t noticed Accutune sold custom stacks, everywhere else I saw you needed to purchase full stacks at each thickness and then combine from there.
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- #10
Scratch that last comment….Accutune DOES NOT sell custom shim stacks, I grossly misread their sites information and they only sell shims like everyone else, you buy a stack of 6 (or a multiple sets) in every size you plan to use…looks like there isn’t anyone who I’ve personally found with actual experience tuning KINGS for an LC200.
Wheeleveryweekend tunes Bilsteins and Kings. I believe.
In regards to tuning kings for a Land Cruiser, its the same as tuning any other vehicle for purpose. I would start by getting motion ratio and unloaded and loaded axle weights. (full fuel tank plus your weight on both loaded and unloaded)
From their ensure you have the correct springs for your application and then you can send your shocks and that info and a company like Accutune or Filthy will take that info and SHOULD do a custom valving setup for you.
I am not sure if accutune will still do that as they seem to do generic pack tunes now.
In your weights be sure you subtract loaded and unloaded weight.
For example subtract wheels and tires from your axle weights.
Here is good read to start.
Props to you for tuning, most just buy the OEM kit and think its the best they can get. A tuned set of shocks at all 4 corners rides like a dream! AHC is ALMOST, ALMOST that good IMO
forum.ih8mud.com
Props to you for tuning, most just buy the OEM kit and think its the best they can get. A tuned set of shocks at all 4 corners rides like a dream! AHC is ALMOST, ALMOST that good IMO
Tips For KING Shocks Owners - Ride Quality
DISCLAIMER: I just have to mention that what I may consider something that works, may not work at all for you or may not be effective for your application. So this is just to get you thinking about your setup and what the issue is or how to optimize it for your needs. Some of these tips are not...
forum.ih8mud.com
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- #13
Here is good read to start.
Props to you for tuning, most just buy the OEM kit and think its the best they can get. A tuned set of shocks at all 4 corners rides like a dream! AHC is ALMOST, ALMOST that good IMO
Tips For KING Shocks Owners - Ride Quality
DISCLAIMER: I just have to mention that what I may consider something that works, may not work at all for you or may not be effective for your application. So this is just to get you thinking about your setup and what the issue is or how to optimize it for your needs. Some of these tips are not...
This is exactly the message I’ve tried to push with every 4Runner owner who is looking for that “3 inch lift” they all so desperately obsessed with achieving, running 700lb front springs and maxed out preload with no droop…I suppose if you want your rig to ride like a f350, that’s a personal choice.
I run a “flat ride” setup in my M3, lowest spring rate possible without crashing and riding bump stops, it’s absolutely mental how much better it handles compared to high spring rates only necessary when pushing aero that I always ran in the past.
Same concept here, lowest rate I can get away with and use the strut. I just wish I had some comp/rebound adjustment to fine tune on these after settling on a decent valve stack.
Im definitely new to this so I doubt I’ll get it right the first time, hopefully these things are still in good shape when I open them up, that will be a bummer if they’re is internal damage. I’m definitely not a stranger to that, I manage to break things on my way to figuring out how they work
I echo this too. For focused off-road use, lower spring rates is an advantage.
Yet many interpret better to mean more, spring rate.
Granted, it's a balance and some rigs here really are overlanding setups with a need to carry more weight. Such is suspension tuning, to broadly balance and compromise for all use cases, or to tailor and optimize for a specific use case.
Yet many interpret better to mean more, spring rate.
Granted, it's a balance and some rigs here really are overlanding setups with a need to carry more weight. Such is suspension tuning, to broadly balance and compromise for all use cases, or to tailor and optimize for a specific use case.
bloc
SILVER Star
My rig is light, an ARB twin is the only extra weight I have in front.
Stock LC200 front springs are 500#
King LC200 2.5 standard springs are 600#, and I had the preload backed out as far as possible.
No matter what I did to twist up the truck, on articulation I could not get front bump stop contact. Meaning even their base rate springs were too firm to use all of the travel the shock and geometry should allow.
With some additional weight up front it would work great, and that was probably their assumption for people running that suspension, but in my case while I gained 2" of down travel from the front shocks, I probably sacrificed a half inch or more of up travel.
King didn't make a 550# spring in those dimensions, but that would have been perfect for my light build.. Eibach does, however.
Stock LC200 front springs are 500#
King LC200 2.5 standard springs are 600#, and I had the preload backed out as far as possible.
No matter what I did to twist up the truck, on articulation I could not get front bump stop contact. Meaning even their base rate springs were too firm to use all of the travel the shock and geometry should allow.
With some additional weight up front it would work great, and that was probably their assumption for people running that suspension, but in my case while I gained 2" of down travel from the front shocks, I probably sacrificed a half inch or more of up travel.
King didn't make a 550# spring in those dimensions, but that would have been perfect for my light build.. Eibach does, however.
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- #16
Eibach is always the go-to, they have never not had a solution I was looking for. I’m not positive they make the springs for KING, but if I were a betting man…
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- #17
finally got around to breaking these down... both front shafts bent, likely due to the little hard "stops" that were epoxied on to limit droop. Nice.
Valve stacks - looks to be just a slightly adjusted KING standard valving,
Compression; 12,12, 08 flutter, 15,15,15,15,15,15, 60
Rebound; 12,12,12,12,12,12, 20
Valve stacks - looks to be just a slightly adjusted KING standard valving,
Compression; 12,12, 08 flutter, 15,15,15,15,15,15, 60
Rebound; 12,12,12,12,12,12, 20
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