Builds The Architect's '77 FJ40 (7 Viewers)

[GA Architect]

Rick ,



adding a 2nd one of these for the rear AUX tank is the modern and safe skool of thought , its independent of the front tank one that was not designed to handle

all the additional fuel pressure , and one way fluid and Vapors as well .........


simple yet absolutely effective ........

OEM TOYOTA Fuel Systerm Gas Tank Check Valve Line Hose Petrol Vapor Recovery 90917 Fits Just about ALL Land Cruisers See application chart first please ... - VintageTEqParts.com

OEM TOYOTA GENUINE PARTS FUEL SYSTEM GAS LINE CHECK VALVE Petrol Hose Vapor Recovery Fits the following Land Cruiser Models...

vintageteqparts.com

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note : this is a 2F FJ45 Pickup set up , however the fundamentals and TECH are all the same in kind .......


i hope this help you Rick ...

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Thanks Matt. I have a check valve located where the OEM unit would be. Mine is not OEM, but came from a MUD members suggestion. It is actually from McMaster-Carr.

My thoughts/question/issue was about the Fuel Evaporator Separator OEM part 77193-60012. Being this 'PLASTIC' part in NLA, seems like it would be a good candidate for the new 3D printers.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Thanks Matt. I have a check valve located where the OEM unit would be. Mine is not OEM, but came from a MUD members suggestion. It is actually from McMaster-Carr.

My thoughts/question/issue was about the Fuel Evaporator Separator OEM part 77193-60012. Being this 'PLASTIC' part in NLA, seems like it would be a good candidate for the new 3D printers.

Rick ,

i do not know the correct answer here , but i thought the OEM black plastic " Tank " you have replaced with the snappy stainless steel splitter fitting , acted also as a

expansion device at some level as well ?

 

[GA Architect]

The power steering fluid didn't look so good, so it was time to flush and add a fluid cooler. I went with the Derale #13269 unit:

New Swepco 715 pwer steering fluid:

 

[GA Architect]

Power steering set up before:

A few shots after:

 

[GA Architect]

Note, there will be an update to my power steering cooler. In order to get the full use of my cooler, I think I need to rotate it about 180 degrees with the exit (90 degree) joint pointing up. That way the exit line will be above the cooler so the exchanger will get it's best use. I have ordered a Gates #352131 molded power steering hose, maybe that should do the trick......well, those are my thoughts right now.

 

[78Cruzr]

Note, there will be an update to my power steering cooler. In order to get the full use of my cooler, I think I need to rotate it about 180 degrees with the exit (90 degree) joint pointing up. That way the exit line will be above the cooler so the exchanger will get it's best use. I have ordered a Gates #352131 molded power steering hose, maybe that should do the trick......well, those are my thoughts right now.

Others more knowledgeable will probably chime in but getting further away from the exhaust manifold would be essential… being out of the engine area, in front or below the radiator even better. Really looking for cooler air moving over the heat sink.

 

[wngrog]

My .02

You most likely don’t need it at all but the cooler (wherever it is located) will add volume to your system which will, in turn, cool your fluid.

 

[77mustard40]

Agree with Nolan, I just tore my mini truck box apart for a rebuild and plan to plumb the return through my Champion radiator if I can manage to put the darn thing back together. In the 80 section, those coolers are getting mounted on the forward side of the front crossmember but that might not look too appealing on a 40.

 

[GA Architect]

While driving a few weeks ago, I noticed my right turn blinker wasn't blinking at times when I was turning....(Thinking to myself, am I low on blinker fluid?).....I did some diagnosis this weekend, while the blinker was working I wiggled the housing and the light would go solid and stop blinking. Surmising there was a short of some sort in the right front turn signal lamp, I had a few new ones on my shelf. So I installed them and here they are.

And I'm happy to report, all is well with the front turn signal lamps. Note, this also seemed to cure a minor flickering I was having in all the lights. I guess the short was sending feedback into my electrical system?

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Good Morning Rick ,


- the short you were experiencing , was most likley located right above the threaded tube where the 2 or 3 green w / tracer stripes wires enter it from your inner fender little grommets

- after some age and time , the wires insulation jackets will rub on the very ends of the male threaded tubes exposing the inner copper strand wire , hence causing variable amounts or resistance / shorts to ground like you were experiencing

- this late modle FJ40 front fenders combination lamps Phenomenon i have run into a few times and its super hard to diagnose because you will not see it visually , and it may only occur when you hit bumps in the road or off road at night time parking lamps ON mode / using turn signals / Hazard flashers

- unless you fully extract the wires up through the lamp housings , you really can not confirm and verify it via a visual inspection to be certain for sure here .....


- don't forget to remove the lenses , and apply some Fully Synthetic die-electric grease to each bulb socket and bulb base too , to help ensure a trouble free
long term service life future




glad the new OEM lamps work well for you now , they look sharp too !


kindly
matt

 

[Last Flight Out]

While driving a few weeks ago, I noticed my right turn blinker wasn't blinking at times when I was turning....(Thinking to myself, am I low on blinker fluid?).....I did some diagnosis this weekend, while the blinker was working I wiggled the housing and the light would go solid and stop blinking. Surmising there was a short of some sort in the right front turn signal lamp, I had a few new ones on my shelf. So I installed them and here they are.
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And I'm happy to report, all is well with the front turn signal lamps. Note, this also seemed to cure a minor flickering I was having in all the lights. I guess the short was sending feedback into my electrical system?

Looks like you sorted it out....also check for rubbed exposed wires coming in from under each fender (I now see that @ToyotaMatt just posted this exact issue!)....Everytime I see a post from you (@GA Architect ) its a gentle reminder for me another amazing tweak I need to make to my '81 or simply a part that is missing from my build that I never noticed before.....This time, the actual rubber washers that sit under each side lamp post mount. Mine are not even there!

 

[emac]

Were the lights giving trouble aftermarket? I tried a set of aftermarket lights and they were complete garbage! There are a few (not many) aftermarket parts that work well, but if its available OEM use it.

 

[GA Architect]

Were the lights giving trouble aftermarket? I tried a set of aftermarket lights and they were complete garbage! There are a few (not many) aftermarket parts that work well, but if its available OEM use it.

As far as I can tell, they were old OEM units. The right side unit's wiring had two splices in it, but not sure that was the cause of the short. I'll tear it down to see what the cause was tonight and report back.

 

[Goldbug]

As far as I can tell, they were old OEM units. The right side unit's wiring had two splices in it, but not sure that was the cause of the short. I'll tear it down to see what the cause was tonight and report back.

I have the same problem and also don’t believe my OEM have the washers.

I purchased new ones but I’ve tried to remove the old ones, and the nut at bottom of the threaded rod is rusted on, and I don’t think I can remove them without destroying them. Anyone else run into this? I can get a wrench on the nut, but then only have the plastic to hold onto to turn against.

 

[GA Architect]

With the help of a few Griot's products, it's ready for Winter.

Before:

After:

 

[dmaddox]

Ready for winter? Looks to me like ready for more photos! What a great looking cruiser. I use Griot's products as well. The Complete Compound works great and has a very mild bite (perfect for single stage). Looks awesome @GA Architect

 

[Grayscale]

While driving a few weeks ago, I noticed my right turn blinker wasn't blinking at times when I was turning....(Thinking to myself, am I low on blinker fluid?).....I did some diagnosis this weekend, while the blinker was working I wiggled the housing and the light would go solid and stop blinking. Surmising there was a short of some sort in the right front turn signal lamp, I had a few new ones on my shelf. So I installed them and here they are.
View attachment 3130451

View attachment 3130453

View attachment 3130452

And I'm happy to report, all is well with the front turn signal lamps. Note, this also seemed to cure a minor flickering I was having in all the lights. I guess the short was sending feedback into my electrical system?

How old was the one low on blinker fluid? I have a difficult time with these lamps, they lack the OEM quality that everything else has. I'm running an extra wire on my later blinder lights for a ground, but, it simply would have been better to have metal chassis, and not some leaky plastic housing that will fail to hold the screws that compress the ill-fitting lens on the gasket.

 

[GA Architect]

How old was the one low on blinker fluid? I have a difficult time with these lamps, they lack the OEM quality that everything else has. I'm running an extra wire on my later blinder lights for a ground, but, it simply would have been better to have metal chassis, and not some leaky plastic housing that will fail to hold the screws that compress the ill-fitting lens on the gasket.

How old, probably 30 years old, +/-. They were OEM units. The issue I had was either one of the wires was making contact with the screw post, or the inner OEM crimp was hitting the shields. Either way, it was grounding itself on....But new units cured that.

...

...

 

[Chungas Revenge]

They seem to be susceptible. I’ve rebuilt mine three times. Very Borg like at this point.

Your TLC is looking very nice!!!

How old, probably 30 years old, +/-. They were OEM units.

 

[Grayscale]

Was there always a nylon wire clip holding the harness in the fender? Previous-owner-question, I know.

This stuff re-wires better than factory if you have the skill.