2mbb, thanks for all that info!!! Sure appreciate the help. Mine is leaking on the rear drive shaft where it meets the transfer case.
Transmission fluid change how to/ write up for FJ60? (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter FJ502
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shipmag
Hagler Technology LLC. Aka Shipmag
If you remove fill plug from transmission and oil comes out the transfer case seal is gone. Two options: 1. Replace the seal which means drop the transfer case. 2. The other other option is get one of transmission to transfer case by pass hose. PM me for more detail.
I already got the bypass hose from you. That isn’t the issue I’m having!!
NWxDrew
SILVER Star
Did this stuff work for you? I’m not finding a whole lot of options.
brian
SILVER Star
A straight gl5 in these would be about the worst thing you could do....mud water would be a better option.
brian
SILVER Star
interesting.
its generally stated the gl5 is bad for yellow metal
its generally stated the gl5 is bad for yellow metal
NWxDrew
SILVER Star
This is why I am inquiring. Maint. manual says GL-5. People on here say stay away from it. I’ve searched the forum, I haven’t reached the inner bowls yet, but I’m not finding anything definitive. But the mud water suggestion was very helpful.
I generally stay GL5 in the Diffs, no yellow syncros and easier to find GL5 Mobil 1 that's formulated for higher shock loads, then I use GL4 for the Trans and T'case (sta lube or GL4 synthetics in the 5 spd).
The main difference btwn GL4 and GL5 (modern) is the amount of EP additive. GL5 is generally not recommended for a gearbox because the high amounts of EP additive for shock loads - usually Sulphur and Phos compounds that don't play nice with yellow metals.
I didn't read thru this thread so don't know if I'm repeating myself or others info.
It's more important to change these fluids often than it is to use expensive synthetics.
The main difference btwn GL4 and GL5 (modern) is the amount of EP additive. GL5 is generally not recommended for a gearbox because the high amounts of EP additive for shock loads - usually Sulphur and Phos compounds that don't play nice with yellow metals.
I didn't read thru this thread so don't know if I'm repeating myself or others info.
It's more important to change these fluids often than it is to use expensive synthetics.
NWxDrew
SILVER Star
I really appreciate the insight!!
shipmag
Hagler Technology LLC. Aka Shipmag
Just a reminder to all seals are meant to keep oil in not water out unless you have a double seal both ways. If you go through water above axels change the dif and axel oil. Mud or dirty water is hell on bearings. And if water is above drive shaft change the trans and tcase oil. If u dont you wont like the result in about 6 months shorter if you drive it alot.
Yes i did it when i was in high school to my dads old game and fish truck. And he made me replace all the bearings because i didnt tell him and he figured it out when the truck started whining. It wasnt a fun time in the old house for a long time. I thiught going through flooded washes was cool. Learned the hard way.
Yes i did it when i was in high school to my dads old game and fish truck. And he made me replace all the bearings because i didnt tell him and he figured it out when the truck started whining. It wasnt a fun time in the old house for a long time. I thiught going through flooded washes was cool. Learned the hard way.
Great thread - super useful for this weekend's job. Transfer case where the fill plug threads in is looking pretty ugly, any ideas on how to best remedy?
thanks!
thanks!
