305/60r-18 Toyo AT3s 116 load range (1 Viewer)

[doktorno]

I have @TeCKis300 to thank for this one, as I ran across a picture of his 100 wearing the same size. Your mileage may vary, your mission may vary, but I spend my off-road time in Texas on construction sites, gravel roads, and fields. I would have to drive four hours to go rock crawling and if I were going to do that I have something else to drive. I am running a lift as I posted here
'21 HE Dobinsons IMS front lift only 1.5", stock rear... - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/21-he-dobinsons-ims-front-lift-only-1-5-stock-rear.1272027/
and have only minimal rubbing on the leading edge of the UCA at full lock. If you believe the website, these tires weigh forty-eight pounds which is not bad for this tread pattern and not much more than stock. Made in Japan as well! Thanks to Houston's third world driving conditions, I can confirm emergency braking is spot on, and the ride is still acceptable.

 

[TeCKis300]

I like it! Something different than all the 275/285 widths that are so common. IMO, those are the sizes that Taco's and 4Rs use, and I find the wider width to better balance the look and handling of the heavy 200.

Curious where specifically you're rubbing on the UCA? Are you running any spacers?

 

[AnyMal]

Not to be a dick or anything but did you ask for those to be installed with the mild side out?

There should be two grooves on that P AT3 sidewall on the "aggressive" side.
Like this:

The P AT3 is already milder on the face than its LT counterpart, just thought you may want to have them flipped.
Very soft grippy tire though, pretty good choice for Houston and should be stable with a lower aspect.

Who put these on for you?

 

[2DaMoon]

Great boots. What pressures are you running them at on the highway?

 

[Heckraiser]

Thanks for sharing! I'm definitely going wider when I wear out my 285/75/18's

 

[doktorno]

@AnyMal not a dick comment, always appreciated. They were installed by Discount Tire and it was just luck of the draw on which side was installed, as I dropped the vehicle off and ran. Will flip 'em in about 10k miles or so. ​

@2DaMoon I am running 35

@TeCKis300 No spacers, was running rear spacers and they were removed with the tire change. Picture below. ​

 

[paulunm]

Easy way to get it right- date codes always face out.

Most tire shops should know that, I’d hope. If it were me and they did it wrong I’d have them correct on their dime…

 

[TeCKis300]

@AnyMal not a dick comment, always appreciated. They were installed by Discount Tire and it was just luck of the draw on which side was installed, as I dropped the vehicle off and ran. Will flip 'em in about 10k miles or so. ​

@2DaMoon I am running 35

@TeCKis300 No spacers, was running rear spacers and they were removed with the tire change. Picture below. ​

View attachment 3145059

At yes, that troublesome spot. I likewise rub there but with larger tires. That spot gets tight with lots of steering and suspension compression. Several possible solutions in no particular order.

1) .75" wheel spacers
2) Aftermarket UCAs without caster correction
3) Grind the stock UCA at that spot

UCA interference.

@nwfl4runner pointed out that there would be rub on the UCA at full compression, at least with an effective wheel offset of +35mm (stock wheel with 1" spacers). I ordered 1.25" spacers to make the necessary clearance.

After getting the spacers in and trying things out, I wasn't completely sold on that strategy for several reasons. I want the tires flush with the fenders. The tire clearance to the top of the fender is finger nails tight with 1" and could have contact with any more. Tire within the fender line also keeps body aero at speed as a big 35 outside of the body lines will contribute to additional drag. As I wanted to keep the stock mud flap, the spacer created tighter clearance there as the tire steered. 1" spacers puts scrub radius geometry closer to optimal. With larger tires and more spacer, also potentially creates additional stress on bearings and running components.

Close in and tight was really what I wanted. Considered going down the path of UCAs as many of them are lower profile in build. May still go down this path. Yet my suspension is barely lifted (.75") and I didn't necessarily want the alignment changes with an aftermarket UCA.

With nothing to lose, out comes the angle grinder. A useful tool when solving interference issues.

Marked the cut around the tire witness marks. Making a gentle curve to ensure no stress risers.

View attachment 2473859

Cut, grinded smooth, and a nice coat of paint
View attachment 2473862

I was going to weld and box material back in. Cut relatively little material away and the UCA is plenty strong there so no structural concerns in my mind. Given the geometry and strength primarily needed on the horizontal plane, these things are potentially still stronger in those directions than some aftermarket UCAs.