Guide: 1HZ - GTurbo + PDI intercooler + 3" exhaust (1 Viewer)

[ATL Cruiser]

Documentation on adding a bit more power to my 1992 HZJ77.

This entire turbo install is based on multiple guides across the internet, namely the Safari guide, which is absolutely fantastic)
' Safari Diesel Intercooled Turbocharger System for the Toyota Land Cruiser 1HZ diesel engine - http://www.safarisnorkel.com/turbo/guides/sthzj70n/sthzj70n_guide.html

GTurbo Green Wheel
' Toyota Landcruiser HZ-G300 Vortex Conversion Kit (Green Wheel - 'Grunter') - GTurbo - https://gturbo.com.au/product/toyota-landcruiser-hz-g300-vortex-conversion-kit-green-wheel/

PDI front mount intercooler (air to air)
' Landcruiser HDJ79 Front Mount intercooler Kit HDJ78 / HDJ79 / HZJ75 / HZJ79 — Performance Diesel Intercoolers - https://www.performancedieselintercoolers.com.au/products/hdj78-hdj79-front-mount-intercooler-kit

Outback Exhaust 3" Stainless
' Outback Exhausts OE4662-S75-RES 3" Stainless Exhaust system (Landcruiser 75 Series UTE 6CYL 4.2L - https://www.4x4modsaustralia.com.au/Outback-Exhausts-OE4662-S75-RES-3-Stainless-Exhaust-system-Landcruiser-75-Series-UTE-6CYL-4.2L-HZJ75-Cab-Chassis-Aftermarket-Factory-Turbo

I started off by removing the old exhaust manifold. 2 tricks recommended for this:

• heat each exhaust stud with MAP gas and spray with penetrant the evening prior. As the stud cools, it will suck the penetrant into the threads.
• heat again the next day right before cracking loose
• after cracking the stud loose, tighten it back down before cracking the next stud loose

This video explains all the various exhaust manifold stud tricks:

Spoiler: YouTube: exhaust stud removal

I installed the new exhaust studs and a new exhaust manifold supplied with the GTurbo kit. However, the GTurbo kit does not include the stubby manifold end. Mine was rusted solid, so I ordered a new one off eBay (don't forget to get the two o-rings, two snap-rings, and inner collar as well). The snap-rings need to be lined up such that their ring opens are on opposite sites.

The turbo itself bolted in fine, and I was ready to punch the sump using this method. I heavily debated welding vs punching in a bung:

Welding a sump bung:
PROS: looks "professional" guaranteed not to leak
CONS: requires oil pan removal which almost guarantees bending the pan flange, welded bung can crack and leak

Punching a sump bung:
PROS: super easy, will not crack like a weld
CONS: does not look "professional" can leak if JB Weld is not applied correctly.

I found that most Australians are punching the bung, including this awesome guy, so I went punch method.

Spoiler: YouTube: sump spike

I ordered a punch from McMaster Carr, ground the point down sharp, and marked the 15mm point (the diameter needed for a 3/8-19 BSPF thread tap), and started hammering.

Punch: ' McMaster-Carr - https://www.mcmaster.com/3420A13/
Tap: ' McMaster-Carr - https://www.mcmaster.com/8328A23/

I tapped from above the frame rail facing downward. You can also tap from the bottom but it runs the risk of smashing into the engine internals.

After punching the hole to exactly 15mm, it leaves a lot of "meat" to tap into. This is why I really like this method vs. drilling which removes all that "meat." I tapped it and then ground crosshatch surrounding it to give the JB Weld something to bite into:

I covered the entire area with JB Weld (not the JB Quik kind, the original one), including the threads and let it set overnight. I was very happy with how it turned out. After running several hundred miles, zero oil drips so far.

I also installed a turbo bracket (17293-17020) while down there following the Safari guide instructions on tapping locations and hole depth, so as not to punch through into the sump. I used a normal tap + a bottoming tap to cut the final threads. Not sure how much this helps, but it was easy.

After running the oil feed line (from the oil pressure sensor), I then cranked the engine up to make sure oil was getting through the turbo. It filled up my janky catch can quickly, and I knew the turbo was getting good oil pressure from the feed line.

Note: I did not pre-prime the turbo. The GTurbo instructions state that the turbo comes pre-oiled, and no priming is required.

Upon wrapping up the turbo install, the easy part was over. The PDI Intercooler was where the real fun began...........

 

[ATL Cruiser]

The PDI Intercooler is absolutely awesome. Great design, great support, and just an all-around amazing company.
' Landcruiser HDJ79 Front Mount intercooler Kit HDJ78 / HDJ79 / HZJ75 / HZJ79 — Performance Diesel Intercoolers - https://www.performancedieselintercoolers.com.au/products/hdj78-hdj79-front-mount-intercooler-kit

The install of this thing was brutal. Almost everything that could go wrong, went wrong. Through no fault of PDI. It's just the nature of installing parts on a 1992.

I started off by removing all the A/C lines in front of the condenser to re-route them. Every single A/C line shredded. Additionally, most are now un-obtanium and impossible to find, so I ended up fabricating:

The receiver drier was removed from the condenser. I relocated it to the front of the battery tray using a clamp. PDI could not ship a receiver internationally, since they come pre-pressurized to keep them dry. I sourced one from 4 Seasons. Fits great.

Once all the A/C lines were squared away, it was time to cut through the front panels for the intercooler install.

In order to install the intercooler, the entire radiator gets spaced back about 1-2" on the RH (driver) side per the PDI instructions. This makes the radiator sit at a bit of an odd angle, since the LH (passenger) side does not get spaced back. I ended up duplicating it on the passenger side to get more room. It worked great.

I then cut up the hood latch and cut two large holes through the panels by the headlights.

Also, note my tape across the top. This is to make sure the hood closes when I'm done and nothing sits up too high.

Following the intercooler install, I could not get the piping to fit. It seemed the spacing was too tight by about 1". I emailed PDI, and they came back with "that HZJ77 is an automatic and a rare beast. You will need to customize to make it fit." Fair enough, at least I knew I wasn't doing anything wrong. It wasn't supposed to fit.

Here's what I did to get everything to fit on the battery side:

On the turbo side, I ended up changing a few things from the standard install:

After routing everything, it was time to chop up the grille. I tried a lot of tools for this and finally resorted to the Dremel, even though it's terrible for long straight cuts. I'm personally not happy with how it turned out, so I bought another grille to do a better job on.

 

[ATL Cruiser]

The previous owner had purchased some great ISSPro gages:
Boost Gage: ' ISSPRO : auto / marine / diesel gauges, sensors, kits and instrumentation - https://www.isspro.com/products.php?productid=1747
(0-30psi boost gage. They do not sell a gage with a lower top boost)

Post-Turbo Pyro Gage: ' ISSPRO : auto / marine / diesel gauges, sensors, kits and instrumentation - https://www.isspro.com/products.php?productid=1728
(post-turbo EGT gage. I used the dump pipe pre-welded bung.)

They also sell a pre-turbo EGT version that goes up to 2000F if you want to tap into your exhaust manifold (i.e. the correct way)
' ISSPRO : auto / marine / diesel gauges, sensors, kits and instrumentation - https://www.isspro.com/products.php?productid=1731

Pillar Pod: ' Gauge Pillar Pod Landcruiser 1985 - 2009 70 Series Troop Carrier | SAAS Automotive - https://www.shopsaas.com/saas-gauge-pillar-pod-landcruiser-1985-2009-70-series-troop-carrier-sgp1209

The sensor wires run through the firewall right above the brake pedal:

The 3" stainless steel exhaust from Outback Exhaust was built for a 75 series. I could not find a system for a 77 anywhere.
' Outback Exhausts OE4662-S75-RES 3" Stainless Exhaust system (Landcruiser 75 Series UTE 6CYL 4.2L - https://www.4x4modsaustralia.com.au/Outback-Exhausts-OE4662-S75-RES-3-Stainless-Exhaust-system-Landcruiser-75-Series-UTE-6CYL-4.2L-HZJ75-Cab-Chassis-Aftermarket-Factory-Turbo

I believe Outback Exhaust gets their systems from here. Tons of info but nothing for a 77.
' Toyota - Bend It AU - https://bendit.com.au/toyota.html

For any wheelbase nerds out there, the 77 is a medium-long wheelbase (2730mm) while the 75 is a long wheelbase (2980mm). This translates to 10" longer.

"J70, J71, and J72 are short wheelbase models; J73 and J74 are medium wheelbase models; J75 is a heavy duty model; J76 and J77 are medium-long wheelbase models; J78 and J79 are long wheelbase or heavy duty models, depending on the generation."
- per ' Type 1 Technical (Toyota Land Cruiser 70 Series) - Tank Encyclopedia - https://tanks-encyclopedia.com/type-1-technical/

So, I had to do a few modifications on it. Firstly, the dump pipe did not fit through the fender. I remedied that with a nice cut-out:

The 3" exhaust was a pretty tight fit at the frame rail before the transmission. I typically like a 1" clearance around all exhaust to prevent rattles. So I squashed the 3" pipe to turn it into an oval, and it tucked up nicely over the frame rail and above the transmission.

Once those issues were dealt with, it was smooth sailing on the exhaust. Just cutting out the extra 10" and welding the various pieces together.

This system has a muffler on it. It is almost silent (apart from the engine and turbo noise). I will likely swap out the muffler for either a straight pipe or a resonator down the road.

 

[ATL Cruiser]

The 1HZ injection pump only came with one quick adjustment - the fuel screw. This screw increases or decreases the fuel across the board (i.e. at idle, at WOT, off boost, and on boost, etc.). This single screw does not offer enough adjustment when a turbocharger is added.

The solution is to add a device called a Boost Compensator. This allows the fuel to ramp up or ramp down as boost changes. This article explains this much better than I can.

' Basic HOW TO - Mechanical Diesel Engine Tuning Guide - https://www.tillix.com.au/mechanical-diesel-engine-tuning

Toyota made several different Boost Compensators, and all fit. Here is a thread discussing the various Boost Compensator options.

' HZ/HD Boost compensator question/confusion - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/hz-hd-boost-compensator-question-confusion.1128520/

By the time I started this project, only one compensator was still readily available (22540-17260). I also grabbed a new gasket (22774-54270)

I also ordered the Trundles Automotive taller cap, pin, and spring. Here is a comparison of all.

The support from Trundles Automotive in New Zealand was absolutely outstanding. They answered questions via email quickly and concisely.

With that said, I do believe the Trundles setup to be overkill on this 1HZ engine. It requires removing the star wheel and adjusting via different springs. Also, the threaded rod must be cut down, which I did. If I had to do it all over again, I would stick with the stock setup. The Trundles system is more geared toward HD engines making big power.

Again, all of this is unnecessary on the 1HZ engine. Keep the original cap and star wheel setup and save the Trundles system for the big boys running big power.

The spring tension must be adjusted to match the max boost, in this case 15psi. There are two methods to do this. First, buy a MityVac MV8510.

METHOD 1 (from the top) - this is the only option if the boost compensator is already installed on the pump. This video explains it pretty clearly.

Spoiler: Boost Compensator Adjustment

METHOD 2 (from the bottom) - if the Boost Compensator is off, this method is far easier. Watch the video above and then apply the principle from the bottom. No paint pen required.

Once the spring tension had been properly calibrated, I installed it on the truck and modified the banjo fitting following this thread.

' Builds - 1985 BJ70 Story and Modifications - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/1985-bj70-story-and-modifications.608045/post-11016865

 

[Blomdala]

Great info here!! Any detail pics on what you had to do with the hood latch? Also, did you put any foam in between the radiator and front support to keep air from going around? I was told that’s and important seal.

 

[ATL Cruiser]

Great info here!! Any detail pics on what you had to do with the hood latch? Also, did you put any foam in between the radiator and front support to keep air from going around? I was told that’s and important seal.

The hood latch is easy. There is a brace that runs from the bottom of it. That brace gets thrown away. Then you just take a cut-off wheel and chop the bottom of the latch off, so it sits flush with the intercooler. The intercooler essentially acts as the new brace holding everything up.

If you zoom in on that photo, you will see where I lopped it off at the bottom.

That's interesting regarding the foam at the bottom. I have not heard of that and would like more information. My initial thought is that I cannot see it helping much, unless there are some aerodynamics there that I'm not seeing.

 

[bottombracket]

Did setting the radiator back mess with your fan and fan shroud depth?

 

[bottombracket]

Also, Wes, this is awesome.

 

[The Jade Bean]

Great info! Congrats!

 

[ATL Cruiser]

Did setting the radiator back mess with your fan and fan shroud depth?

The front fan is about 1" closer to the radiator now. But there is still a massive gap there for clearance. The fan probably had 3" of clearance previously. It's tough to take a picture of, but if you look at your current setup, just imagine it pushed back toward the engine 1" closer.

Also, the PDI intercooler kit only calls for spacing back the RH side of the radiator. PDI only sends spacers for the RH side. That didn't really work for me. It made the LH side really crammed. So I spaced back the LH side as well. If you order the kit from PDI, I would ask for an extra set of radiator/condenser spacers.

Also, I edited the A/C section with notes on the receiver drier for you.

 

[mt72]

Have you worked on tunning the fuel pump?

 

[SNLC]

Whats is most important about fan to rad core is depth of the fan in the shroud. You are probably fine sinking it an inch but keep this in mind. IIRC fans on Cruiser engines are an inch or an inch and a half protruding out of the shroud.

Cheers

 

[dcruiser666]

@wesdaniel is the intercooler hose on the side of the ip contacting your hood insulation at all? In the time I've had the pdi kit installed that elbow right over the manifold has worn through mine. Curious if this is just happening to me.

 

[ATL Cruiser]

Have you worked on tunning the fuel pump?

Not yet. That was in the "coming up" section on my last entry. I am waiting on a boost compensator to arrive.

@wesdaniel is the intercooler hose on the side of the ip contacting your hood insulation at all? In the time I've had the pdi kit installed that elbow right over the manifold has worn through mine. Curious if this is just happening to me.

It is barely touching the hood insulation. I don't know another way around it without severely deforming that metal intake piece, though...

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

Awesome. Thanks for the links and the good write-up. I'd like to do something similar with my 14B-T.

Any data yet for before and after performance wise?

 

[ATL Cruiser]

Awesome. Thanks for the links and the good write-up. I'd like to do something similar with my 14B-T.

Any data yet for before and after performance wise?

I have not adjusted the fuel yet, so I'm currently rocking a 1HZ getting waaaay too much air.

My boost compensator + Trundles Automotive pin/spring/cap just got here from New Zealand. Once that is installed, I will post full details on the install and results.

 

[mudgudgeon]

The front fan is about 1" closer to the radiator now. But there is still a massive gap there for clearance. The fan probably had 3" of clearance previously. It's tough to take a picture of, but if you look at your current setup, just imagine it pushed back toward the engine 1" closer.

One thing to be mindful of is there's a history of cruiser fans flexing during water crossings, and taking out the radiator core.
This is with standard fans, standard radiator position.
If you've reduced that spacing, you'll probably need to stop, open the hood and tether the fan to stop it spinning before driving through any water that's radiator depth.

 

[ATL Cruiser]

Placeholder post above updated with Boost Compensator install. TONS of power. She drives as quickly as our old POS Honda minivan now. Almost

1HZ: GTurbo + PDI intercooler + 3" exhaust

Documentation on adding a bit more power to my 1992 HZJ77. This entire turbo install is based on multiple guides across the internet, namely the Safari guide, which is absolutely fantastic) ' Safari Diesel Intercooled Turbocharger System for the Toyota Land Cruiser 1HZ diesel engine -...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[mudgudgeon]

Great info there

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

Curious to know before and after fuel economy.