Dang same here, bent my upper link bracket a month ago causing the axle to twist, got death wobble so I parked it, but I also blew the 8 inch on this obstacle right after that. Now I wait for a custom 9.5 front housing
UZJ100 to UZJ105: SAS build (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter UZJ105
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- Thread starter
- #102
Those Methods have a little bit of offset, which is allowing them to clear fine. I assume you're running 2.5" spacers in the front?
- Thread starter
- #103
Your truck is so badass. Tons are definitely the way for anything over 37". Hence why I stuck w/ boring little 35's.
Turns out my death wobble was a castor over correction. We put the Slee plates on during the build. With 80 series 3.5" springs, it made sense to us in theory. The initial alignment shop printout said it was around 2.5+ degrees. A month later, chronic death wobble. Took it to another alignment shop a few months later and their printout said 7+ degrees. Removed the plates and no more death wobble.
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That doesn't make any sense. Extra caster will only make it drive better, not cause death wobble. My FJ62 that I daily drive has around 6.5-7.
You shouldn't even need to go to an alignment shop to check that. A simple digital angle finder on top of the steering knuckle bolts will tell you your caster. You have something else wrong.
You shouldn't even need to go to an alignment shop to check that. A simple digital angle finder on top of the steering knuckle bolts will tell you your caster. You have something else wrong.
- Thread starter
- #105
I've heard mixed things, but the fact that I had violent death wobble w/ the plates, vs no death wobble post plates, is enough for me; even if just anecdotally. The truck drives great now. The plates are the only factor that has changed since.
- Thread starter
- #107
We cut the factory 100 line where it met the pump and used an 80 steering box fitting. I took it to a local hydraulic shop and had them make a custom line to my measurements. That part was pretty easy.
Sir, you are undoubtedly intimately familiar now with the differences between a 100 and 105 frame--probably more than just about anyone, anywhere.
I am readying my 105 for transport to Canada and at the last moment have had the notion of putting a factory winch on it. I know where I can get a new 200 series winch with mounting plate and I actually have an 'ok' 80 series winch with mounting plate, but what I am having trouble figuring out is which would be the easiest to fit on a 105? A factory 80 series winch or a factory 200 series winch. And just to add another level of noise, I also can get a new 70 series winch with mounting plate!
If you can throw some light on this question it would be greatly appreciated.
The complete winch assembly part number I get for my 105 is 38110-60270, and when I do a cross reference using ToyoDIY it seems to suggest that it was also used for the 100. And this would suggest that the frame dimensions, at least in the front, are identical for a 100 and a 105. Which I -thought- was quite different from that of an 80. So I'm greatly confused.
And then when I search for photos of that part number I find ads like this:
Which suggests that the assembly is the same for the 105 and the 80.
I am readying my 105 for transport to Canada and at the last moment have had the notion of putting a factory winch on it. I know where I can get a new 200 series winch with mounting plate and I actually have an 'ok' 80 series winch with mounting plate, but what I am having trouble figuring out is which would be the easiest to fit on a 105? A factory 80 series winch or a factory 200 series winch. And just to add another level of noise, I also can get a new 70 series winch with mounting plate!
If you can throw some light on this question it would be greatly appreciated.
The complete winch assembly part number I get for my 105 is 38110-60270, and when I do a cross reference using ToyoDIY it seems to suggest that it was also used for the 100. And this would suggest that the frame dimensions, at least in the front, are identical for a 100 and a 105. Which I -thought- was quite different from that of an 80. So I'm greatly confused.
And then when I search for photos of that part number I find ads like this:
Which suggests that the assembly is the same for the 105 and the 80.
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- Thread starter
- #110
I can't claim to know much about a 105 frame, since I have never seen one in person. I modified a 100 frame by fitting 80 suspension components. I am probably not the best person to address your question. It looks like you have both a 105 and an 80, so I would argue you are in a good position to find those answers.
Well that is a fair point. At the moment I am completely without access to a place to take things apart And my parts, including an 80 winch, are inaccessible. Just a set of unfortunate circumstances. I do thank you for the reply. I think I will crawl underneath with a tape measure and see what I see.
I've just been so impressed with what you have accomplished that I figured you'd know right off the top of your head to three decimal places!
Keep up the excellent work.
@John Young here are some frame diagrams to show the difference between 80, 105, 100.
SFA 100 series - How many? - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/sfa-100-series-how-many.889922/page-4
@UZJ105 congrats on getting this completed been looking over this thread and others for several days as I’m seriously considering doing this with mine but I wouldn’t go with the TT kit. Have you taken any long distance travels with the swap and how are its manners on the highway?
SFA 100 series - How many? - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/sfa-100-series-how-many.889922/page-4
@UZJ105 congrats on getting this completed been looking over this thread and others for several days as I’m seriously considering doing this with mine but I wouldn’t go with the TT kit. Have you taken any long distance travels with the swap and how are its manners on the highway?
- Thread starter
- #113
Thanks! Road manners are good for the most part. It does tend to wander a bit, but that could probably be addressed by installing a steering dampener, which I haven't gotten around to yet. Overall, it drives just like a wide 80 series with a 4.7. I'm really happy with it.
Following along ... need to get some mileage out of the parts I just put in but when I can get the logistics / shop / people in order I am gonna pull the trigger to SAS. How many hours did that take you? 100 ish?? Thoughts on keeping ABS etc?
- Thread starter
- #116
No check engine light. I used the Marks 4wd ABS relocation kit since I am running a 4wd part time kit. The kit relocates the sensors and comes with a toning ring that mounts behind the brake rotor. I went through all that work, to wind up ripping the ABS wires on a trail. I've now driven thousands of miles w/o operable front ABS sensors. The ABS light is on, but I haven't experienced any ABS related issues.
We stopped keeping track of the hours after the first 3 clocks wore out. After that we started counting growth rings on the trees that were harvested on my property and referencing one of the rings as the year we set sail on the project. When we finally finished, we had to file paperwork with the local historical society in order to remove a historic landmark.
Yeah that sounds about right ... I have a shop that says they can do it for about 25K and I supply the axle and they fab the rest and do the labor. I am nervous about spending that kind of money and then getting the death wobble ... the reason I got rid of my Jeep. It's funny when people say to me out on the trail "Dude you should SAS that thing" like it's not a big deal. Nobody appreciates how much work and custom fabrication goes into this ... and people think it's like a 5K idea. Laughable isn't it? But one thing is for sure, and that is that it is easier and a little cheaper to SAS a 100 than a 200. At least that is what I am going to tell myself.
Thank you SR5. Very helpful. I will spend time looking at frame diagrams and learn what I can.
