Transfer Case Leak (1 Viewer)

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Can you rephrase? Your description sort of says it is doing what it is supposed to? You mean the lights are flashing but when you hit the button it goes solid? No CEL? When they did it, did they lock it first or leave it unlocked? Sounds like it is not keyed correctly to the stroke and so the sensor doesn't know it is completely unlocked or locked...if that makes sense?
 
What I was trying to say was that after the work was completed the vsc off light stays on and when I push the button to go from high to low the light only blinks and wont turn off. Can this be fixed without major repair? If not how do I fix it.
 
Many many thanks and +much gratitude to all who contributed to this thread. Just performed the $6 version of the $3 fix, I did the seal as well since my o4 GX470 has 166000 miles on it and it wasn't torn but could tell it was worn compared to the new one. Three days later no leaks and everything works as it should. My only concern was this vehicle is fairly new to me and I found out about the leak when I investigated a power steering pump like whine coming from the transmission tunnel. only during warm-up. Thankfully it wasn't the tranny. I totally agreed with several who posted the opinion that while there is a small chance of a booboo the it was worth trying before going down the factory approved $2000+ road. My only concern is the case was almost dry. 1.5 qt capacity and it took 1qt
6ounces. I used Valvoline synthetic GL5 75-140 to hopefully slow down /stop the leak while I did the research that lead me to this site and in particular this thread. In the 1500 miles I drove it, it only leaked 2 ounces. Unless there is problem with this fluid I plan on leaving it in till the next drain and fill is due Once again thanks from the bottom of my wallet!!!
So, after a weeks time time including a 350 mile trip ,total of about 600 miles all is still right with my world. No more leak, all functions and lights are working as they should. Thank you all once again!!!
 
What I was trying to say was that after the work was completed the vsc off light stays on and when I push the button to go from high to low the light only blinks and wont turn off. Can this be fixed without major repair? If not how do I fix it.

Is the center diff lock light on as well? Just asking because sometimes it takes some movement to engage / disengage, it might not do it while you're stationary.
 
Push the button? Do you have a 470 or a 460 or a 4runner? If only the 2 symbols are on...it may just need a zero point calibration. When I was messing with my son's 4runner I had to ZPC it once I unplugged the tcase CDL.
 
did you do the utility = clear memory or a reset? I noticed one makes the lights flash and one actually resets it. (using techstream)
 
I have done everything that I know how to do. Now I'm stuck unless I want to pay the dealer 2 grand, or continue to drive in high gear, which is eating me up in gas, and no vehicle stability. What is (techstream)? Forgive my ignorance.
 
If you are in H you are fine...you mean is the CDL locked? I still don't understand what the problem is aside from "some lights" on.

Techstream you can search on here to learn how to get it on a laptop and use it.
 
Hey guys,

Wondering if any of you ran into transfer case leaking again after you had it R/R or repaired?

Looking to buy 2004 GX470 and the service records says the following:

OTHERS ~|~OIL LOSS FROM TRANSFER CASE AREA INSTALL SOP ~|~TRANSFER CASE O-RING LEAK OPTC5003,FP90301-56009,65/13 ~|~R/R TRANSFER CASE ACTUATOR O-RING

If they R/R'ed, I'm thinking it won't happen again (?) or should it be a deal breaker?

Not really the place to ask but following is the price/spec:
$7k, 194k miles, okay service records, timing belt & water pump done at 90k so will need to be replaced soon.
 
Good Morning!

Anyone know what the exact name of this screw is? Screw on the actuator housing cover, which also holds the metal plate. Where can I find one? The old ones are very rusty and scared won't come out next time. Maybe someone knows the factory toyota oem number?

Thanks for the help!

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I hear you on that. Probably the only janky Toyota fastener on the vehicle. I would find something with the same thread pattern with a better head (not Phillips). Stainless if possible. Use a washer if needed. Can be slightly shorter, but not longer.
 
Go to Fastenal or Parkrose Hardware type of store and match up the specs. No reason to get hardware from the dealer unless it's a single use bolt like a head stud, etc.
 
Hey Y’all,

big thanks to everyone who has contributed to this thread over the years. Found out today that my o-ring needs to be replaced, and have been pouring over this thread and the one on clublexus.

at this point, im leaning towards paying the $1200 at the lexus shop I’ve used in the past because the twist / turn and pull method seems too risky.

That being said, I’m still trying to figure out the difference between what the master tech who fixed this for Dan did, and the twist / turn pull. Am I correct in understanding that the master tech did NOT split the t case, and instead opened up the TCA box while still mounted to the transfer case, and removed the two halves separately? By doing this, he was able to avoid twisting / turning and pulling? If so, what’s the downside here, and why would you use twist turn pull instead?

just trying to figure out if this is something I’m willing to attempt. Not comfortable splitting the t case myself, but I’d try twist turn pull in a heartbeat if not for the risks.
 
Hey Y’all,

big thanks to everyone who has contributed to this thread over the years. Found out today that my o-ring needs to be replaced, and have been pouring over this thread and the one on clublexus.

at this point, im leaning towards paying the $1200 at the lexus shop I’ve used in the past because the twist / turn and pull method seems too risky.

That being said, I’m still trying to figure out the difference between what the master tech who fixed this for Dan did, and the twist / turn pull. Am I correct in understanding that the master tech did NOT split the t case, and instead opened up the TCA box while still mounted to the transfer case, and removed the two halves separately? By doing this, he was able to avoid twisting / turning and pulling? If so, what’s the downside here, and why would you use twist turn pull instead?

just trying to figure out if this is something I’m willing to attempt. Not comfortable splitting the t case myself, but I’d try twist turn pull in a heartbeat if not for the risks.

I am wondering the same thing. I just noticed a leak on mine that I would like to fix.
 
For a 2003 GX470, start to finish under 30 min after I got the truck on jackstands. I replaced the o-ring and rod seal using a inexpensive Amazon kit. Easy enough to do that I can do it again if needed. And if it lasts 1/2 as long as the original, that's still 10 years.

Thx @GXO !

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