3.0 engine pull- with or without transmission? (1 Viewer)

[ColoradoBoy]

HI, all-
Been over on the 80 series forum, but looking for some help over here. I have an 89 pickup that needs a new motor. Getting ready to pull (never done a pull on the 3.0 before), but am looking for input as to easier/harder to keep the transmission attached & pull them both or detach and pull the motor. I do have a copy of the FSM, but sometimes other peoples tips and tricks can be real time savers. I know... 3.4 swap was REALLY tempting, but I really didn't want to get into that much money/time/learning curve to do so. I have a rebuilt 3.0 on order from Yota1 Performance, so please limit replies to the issue at hand.

Thank you in advance for those willing to let me know their 3.0 pulling experience.

 

[gnob]

nice.

 

[ColoradoBoy]

Whooo-Hooo!! Finally got it fired up for the first time this morning- no CEL. However...

the valves sound awfully loose. I would expect less noise from a new build. Any thoughts from anyone?

 

[ColoradoBoy]

Not the valves making noise, but the newly cleaned injectors clicking away. Moving on to the next issue...

I am able to start the truck. The idle is high, but running smooth. It appears to me that about the time the engine is warmed up enough for the thermostat to open up, it turns into a surging (bog down, speed up), high-idle mess. My initial reaction to this was that maybe I plumbed a coolant by-pass line backwards or something(?). I have been tracing my work, but can't find anything that looks wrong. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Hope everyone was able to get out and enjoy a long Labor Day Weekend!

 

[gnob]

sounds like your tps needs set

 

[vipergrhd]

Not the valves making noise, but the newly cleaned injectors clicking away. Moving on to the next issue...

I am able to start the truck. The idle is high, but running smooth. It appears to me that about the time the engine is warmed up enough for the thermostat to open up, it turns into a surging (bog down, speed up), high-idle mess. My initial reaction to this was that maybe I plumbed a coolant by-pass line backwards or something(?). I have been tracing my work, but can't find anything that looks wrong. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Hope everyone was able to get out and enjoy a long Labor Day Weekend!

I ran into a similar issue when I installed the heads back on my 3.slow. Double check your base timing, check all your vacuum hoses routing I did find that one of the hose was applying vacuum to the EGR. Unless you removed the TPS from the TB you don't need to adjust it, check for vacuum leaks from the MAF to the upper plenum too.

 

[ColoradoBoy]

I ran into a similar issue when I installed the heads back on my 3.slow. Double check your base timing, check all your vacuum hoses routing I did find that one of the hose was applying vacuum to the EGR. Unless you removed the TPS from the TB you don't need to adjust it, check for vacuum leaks from the MAF to the upper plenum too.

I had the same thought about the TPS. I did not touch it during the swap, so I am going to rule that out for now. I'll double check the vac. hoses again.
I will also go through and check the various sensors per the FSM to make sure I don't have something wrong there, either. Timing should be pretty darn close, I took extra care during disassembly to make some good match marks.

Thanks for the input... I'll get after it and report back.
Cheers!

 

[vipergrhd]

I had the same thought about the TPS. I did not touch it during the swap, so I am going to rule that out for now. I'll double check the vac. hoses again.
I will also go through and check the various sensors per the FSM to make sure I don't have something wrong there, either. Timing should be pretty darn close, I took extra care during disassembly to make some good match marks.

Thanks for the input... I'll get after it and report back.
Cheers!

Just to add, make sure the flap door inside the MAF is smooth full open and close. Clean the IAC and make sure it moves freely and test it while your at it.

 

[ColoradoBoy]

Just to add, make sure the flap door inside the MAF is smooth full open and close. Clean the IAC and make sure it moves freely and test it while your at it.

Thank you.
Wife's 80 series decided to give us some fits... gotta chase that down first.

 

[ColoradoBoy]

Got the vacuum lines sorted out- purring like a kitten!!

Gotta purge the clutch fluid, re-attach drive lines, & it will be mobile again! Misc. front grille trim, send bumper out for powdercoat...
WHEW!!
Thanks for following along and helping out!

 

[vipergrhd]

Got the vacuum lines sorted out- purring like a kitten!!

Gotta purge the clutch fluid, re-attach drive lines, & it will be mobile again! Misc. front grille trim, send bumper out for powdercoat...
WHEW!!
Thanks for following along and helping out!

Awesome news @ColoradoBoy.

What is wrong with your 80?

 

[ColoradoBoy]

Awesome news @ColoradoBoy.

What is wrong with your 80?

The 80 seems to need a new TPS- tests were consistently off per the FSM- ordered two so that the Pickup now has a backup TPS on the shelf. Now trying to find time to get that fixed.

Seems that I fuggered up my clutch install on the Pickup, however... bled the clutch lines tonight, but no clutch actuation.
Looks like I'm moving backward again. If anyone has any good tips on pulling the tranny & re-installing the clutch, I would love to hear your thoughts and experience. I guess I should have done that before re-installing the drivelines!

 

[ColoradoBoy]

Anyone?...

Got the drivelines back out, starter off, exhaust unbolted, engine-to-transmission bolts out; rear cross-member off. I have a transmission jack, but am wondering if I should remove the rear diff as well? The last owner had it off at one time, but used FIPG to put it back together... more work than necessary?

I'm working by myself, and would appreciate any input/hints to get it out without injuring the parts or myself. (not necessarily in that order!!)

My barn floor is not super smooth, so I was thinking of using a ratchet strap to help ease the tranny back while rolling on the jack. Just worried about it falling one way or the other when fully disconnected having the rear diff still on there(?)

Thanks, and Cheers!

EDIT: 80 Series TPS replaced, still no love from the crappy idle. Beginning to think I still have a vacuum leak somewhere on it. Ordered a new gasket for the push rod side cover, and other assorted bits...

 

[ColoradoBoy]

Got the transmission pulled back just far enough to get my hands in on the throw out bearing,,,
Just got to get that silly clip in place, then (hopefully) slide it all back together!

 

[ColoradoBoy]

Just when you think you got it (quick & easy)-

Decided to pull it all out & give it a scrub, While I'm in there. Silly, but made me feel good. At least any developing issues won't be caked in many years of built up crap.
... and it looks pretty(er) !

 

[vipergrhd]

Anyone?...

Got the drivelines back out, starter off, exhaust unbolted, engine-to-transmission bolts out; rear cross-member off. I have a transmission jack, but am wondering if I should remove the rear diff as well? The last owner had it off at one time, but used FIPG to put it back together... more work than necessary?

I'm working by myself, and would appreciate any input/hints to get it out without injuring the parts or myself. (not necessarily in that order!!)

My barn floor is not super smooth, so I was thinking of using a ratchet strap to help ease the tranny back while rolling on the jack. Just worried about it falling one way or the other when fully disconnected having the rear diff still on there(?)

Thanks, and Cheers!

EDIT: 80 Series TPS replaced, still no love from the crappy idle. Beginning to think I still have a vacuum leak somewhere on it. Ordered a new gasket for the push rod side cover, and other assorted bits...

What did you find wrong with the clutch? Sucks you had to pull it out, while it's out replace the input shaft seal and get a new gasket.

 

[ColoradoBoy]

What did you find wrong with the clutch? Sucks you had to pull it out, while it's out replace the input shaft seal and get a new gasket.

Yeah- already installed all new parts prior to dropping motor back in. Failed to get the throw out clips set correctly, thus no clutch actuation. Doh!!!
Oh well- clean & ready for re-installation!

 

[aztoyman]

I'm with you on putting clean parts/components in when possible. I don't like working on nasty stuff either.

I also don't have a transmission jack and I'm usually by myself.

I usually have a jack stand under the engine to hold position.

I'll use my floor jack or sometimes two to get it in. Or a ratchet strap to adjust angle.

I use guide bolts in the engine to help keep things aligned going together. NEVER force it. Keep the gap around the bell housing even as you go toward the engine. Sometimes I rotate the crank if I have to.

Go slow and BE CAREFUL. Keep your phone in reach if you're by yourself.

Good luck

 

[ColoradoBoy]

I'm with you on putting clean parts/components in when possible. I don't like working on nasty stuff either.

I also don't have a transmission jack and I'm usually by myself.

I usually have a jack stand under the engine to hold position.

I'll use my floor jack or sometimes two to get it in. Or a ratchet strap to adjust angle.

I use guide bolts in the engine to help keep things aligned going together. NEVER force it. Keep the gap around the bell housing even as you go toward the engine. Sometimes I rotate the crank if I have to.

Go slow and BE CAREFUL. Keep your phone in reach if you're by yourself.

Good luck

Thx for the tips/encouragement!
I’ll get started today- I recruited some help for Wed night to mate things up & bolted.
Cheers!

 

[gnob]

ive found two Jacks make life easier installing large assemblies

 

[ColoradoBoy]

ive found two Jacks make life easier installing large assemblies

Nice- I have the transmission jack and a 3 ton hydraulic car jack. I figure with two people and a ratchet strap, we can get it.
Thanks!