What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (25 Viewers)

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Or let your fuel tank empty out halfway, or lose a few pounds, or find a chubby passenger.
2 chicks. That's the dream bro. 🐥🐤

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Me and the boys put in the third row seat brackets and from parts I received from a fellow forum member. Finally can use the Land Cruiser as I had envisioned. We hauled the whole family to church tonight. Good thing we have some little ones yet. There is not a lot of foot room in the third row! The kids gave it a rave review though.

Really only two things left to do. I need to get skid plates and rock sliders. Then we’ll be good to go!

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Me and the boys put in the third row seat brackets and from parts I received from a fellow forum member. Finally can use the Land Cruiser as I had envisioned. We hauled the whole family to church tonight. Good thing we have some little ones yet. There is not a lot of foot room in the third row! The kids gave it a rave review though.

Really only two things left to do. I need to get skid plates and rock sliders. Then we’ll be good to go!

View attachment 3127103
I’m 6’1 and occasionally enjoy the third row… with the second row seats folded 😂
 
Found the source of my noise! The dust deflector inside the transfer case is loose! You can see it jiggling! Going to do new bearing and seal on the rear side of the transfer case.

Side question... When looking for the noise I jacked all 4 wheels up off the ground on my 2000 LX470, had my wife sit in the driver seat and put it in drive. When she released her foot from the brake there was a loud noise from the driveline.... I noticed only the front wheel was spinning. Gave it a bit of gas and it looked like the rear caught up to the front and the sound went away.

First AWD vehicle, first cruiser.... what was going on here? I expected all four wheels to move freely. I have no noises or issues when the vehicle is on the ground.
 
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Found the source of my noise! The dust deflector inside the transfer case is loose! You can see it jiggling! Going to do new bearing and seal on the rear side of the transfer case.

Side question... When looking for the noise I jacked all 4 wheels up off the ground on my 2000 LX470, had my wife sit in the driver seat and put it in drive. When she released her foot from the brake there was a loud noise from the driveline.... I noticed only the front wheel was spinning. Gave it a bit of gas and it looked like the rear caught up to the front and the sound went away.

First AWD vehicle, first cruiser.... what was going on here? I expected all four wheels to move freely. I have no noises or issues when the vehicle is on the ground.

Power is available to all four wheels in drive, but it's always going to take the path of least resistance. You can lock the center differential to split power 50% rear, 50% front, and you can add other locking mechanisms to your differentials to guarantee all four wheels spin at the same rate. You were probably hearing the center differential mechanism inside the transfer case do its job.

On normal surfaces, it's not an issue because all four tires have some resistance.

tl;dr: Nothing out of the ordinary, your truck is fine.
 
What would you do? Replace Upper Control arm Ball joints and bushings for around $200 in parts and DIY or grab Nitro UCA on sale for $480 delivered? I do not have issues with alignment that I know if..... drives great
 
What would you do? Replace Upper Control arm Ball joints and bushings for around $200 in parts and DIY or grab Nitro UCA on sale for $480 delivered? I do not have issues with alignment that I know if..... drives great
If you are running a lift (which looks like you are) then Nitro delivered for $480 a pretty slick deal. I am sure you can sell the used LCAs to recoup some cost too!
 
Not much action, but did have a set of LC wheels refinished that I plan to install at some point on my LX.
Before
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After
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Did you replace the rivets or paint them on the wheels. I have the same setup.. was thinking of spraying each rivet black...
Did you replace the rivets or paint them on the wheels. I have the same setup.. was thinking of spraying each rivet black...
On the wheels? I removed the bolts in order and stuck them on card board. Sanded and sprayed black. I didn’t paint the washers. I replaced back in order so I didn’t have to rebalance. Otherwise, on a tundra/Tacoma forum people needed to get thicker washers to accommodate aftermarket black bolts.
 
Headed out to the north rim of the Grand Canyon which has never gone easy on my 100, but is always a fun time.

No more than an hour on the trail outside Mesquite, NV the rear sway bar snapped. Time spent removing the stub was also spent venting the gas tank...as I'm sure most 100 owners know is a thing at altitude bouncing around.
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Surprisingly green and always amazing route to the lookout with some threatening clouds that in the end didn't result in any rain.
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Money shot
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Installed a new OEM sway bar and was reminded by the local parts guys that one has to pay if they want to play. Great. At least the bushings were included and it is shiny, so there's that..
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Turns out it has been 30k miles since rebuilding the rear shocks (maybe that's why there's so much bounce!), so pulled them and will send off to Icon for some love. OG OME 60003's in their place for now.
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Headed out to the north rim of the Grand Canyon which has never gone easy on my 100, but is always a fun time.

No more than an hour on the trail outside Mesquite, NV the rear sway bar snapped. Time spent removing the stub was also spent venting the gas tank...as I'm sure most 100 owners know is a thing at altitude bouncing around.
nrgc1.jpeg


Surprisingly green and always amazing route to the lookout with some threatening clouds that in the end didn't result in any rain.
nrgc2.jpeg


Money shot
nrgc3.jpeg


Installed a new OEM sway bar and was reminded by the local parts guys that one has to pay if they want to play. Great. At least the bushings were included and it is shiny, so there's that..
nrgc4.jpeg


Turns out it has been 30k miles since rebuilding the rear shocks (maybe that's why there's so much bounce!), so pulled them and will send off to Icon for some love. OG OME 60003's in their place for now.
nrgc5.jpeg
Sweet truck and great pics!

Wow, I haven't seen another report of a sway bar snapping! Could it be because of the longer than stock travel of your Icons?
Perhaps extend sway bar links would help?

Also, as fancy as the Icons are, it must be a major PITA to keep having to pull them out every 30k miles for a rebuild!
 
Sweet truck and great pics!

Wow, I haven't seen another report of a sway bar snapping! Could it be because of the longer than stock travel of your Icons?
Perhaps extend sway bar links would help?

Also, as fancy as the Icons are, it must be a major PITA to keep having to pull them out every 30k miles for a rebuild!

Thanks @ClassyJalopy ! I do have extended sway bar links, so who knows? Perhaps it just got smacked on one too many rocks.

And I hear you on the maintenance interval for the Icons. Their official recommendation is for factory service every 45K miles for street use, 15K for street/dirt, and...wait for it...every 1K miles for dirt use. So maybe I should be happy getting away with 30K miles...at least until I see the bill for the factory service!
 
Thanks @ClassyJalopy ! I do have extended sway bar links, so who knows? Perhaps it just got smacked on one too many rocks.

And I hear you on the maintenance interval for the Icons. Their official recommendation is for factory service every 45K miles for street use, 15K for street/dirt, and...wait for it...every 1K miles for dirt use. So maybe I should be happy getting away with 30K miles...at least until I see the bill for the factory service!
Maybe 1000 miles if you're running Baja 1000 type miles. Otherwise that's nuts.

I'm finding as I am (continuing the process of)going through my truck that some stuff is just... tired. And that's OK. Quarter million miles or so is still a lot, even if it's a Yota. In your case- probably just a weak spot in the metal that flexed its last and/or got bonked in just the right place.

Glad you got it back on the road and working in the meantime.
 
Spent some
From the Ironman FAQ page:

Refer to completed installation form to measure and compare with new ride height. If a vehicle is leaning down on one corner, firstly ensure the vehicle is on level ground and then assess the weight distribution to ensure even placement of load and accessories.

Many vehicle models exhibit an uneven weight distribution from factory, Ironman 4×4 adjust the spring height accordingly to level the vehicle.
Check if springs are designated for Drivers Side (D/S) or Passengers Side (N/S) and ensure they are installed to the correct location. Typically the taller coils should be fitted to the heavier side of the vehicle.
Swapped the coils today, took me about an hour.

Apparently, the “P/S” which is stamped on the coil is slightly taller. I think this is because the fuel tank and passenger are on the “North American” side driver side.

This is one of my big annoyances with Ironman, their instructions are garbage and they didn’t bother to make separate ones for LHD / RHD.

I'm gonna let it settle after a few drives, but so far the driver side is just a 1/4" taller now instead of being off by 3/8".

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It ALMOST runs! Fixing some more PO surprises. I think the green painter's tape was a nice touch. You all better watch out, I might have to get more gas and damage something else before long.

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I think you get the award for buying the worst truck but still sticking with it.
My wonderful mother says I’m too stubborn to know when to quit. Admit it though, you wish you had a green taped electrical fire under your dash. 🤣 I don’t want to say it too loud. But today feels like I turned a corner. Just hoping the light at the end of the tunnel is indeed daylight and not a freight train. Thank sweet baby Jesus! Now that I’ve blown my entire build budget on baselining back to zero. I’m a little lost as to what to do next. Thinking five bucks in gas to the liquor store might be the move.
 

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