Builds My Tucson 40's (3 Viewers)

[RodrigzCrzr]

Great job on both!

 

[JackA]

Thanks for the props.

So.....I have another mystery motor to use. The plan will to rig it up so I can do a compression test. Visually, it looks good and the internals are super clean. I can tell it has been rebuilt or at least completely apart at some point. I will pull the oil pan and check that stuff too. I might even borrow an engine run stand and really test it. Once deemed good I will clean, reseal, and paint.

I am also researching local rebuild options.

 

[Michael B]

Jack is that block cracked on the passenger side rear, just above the oil pan flange?

 

[JackA]

Nope. It's just dirt. There's some surface rust on the exterior too cause I let it sit outside (was mostly sealed) and it got rained on.

 

[whitey45]

You can start these tractors sitting on the ground,some 4x4’s under the engine mounts. No engine stand needed!

 

[middlecalf]

You can start these tractors sitting on the ground,some 4x4’s under the engine mounts. No engine stand needed!

He’s done that before. That’s why I follow his builds. I like his technique .

 

[JackA]

I have done it sitting on a tire. It would be nice to run it long enough to check temps and oil pressure. A friend has the set up and said I could borrow it.

 

[Living in the Past]

F254153 would be a 69 model engine. 68 had ports for a air rail. What is the series on the bad engine engine?

 

[JackA]

The bad engine is a 1971. I will check its numbers tonight.

 

[JackA]

Bad engine is F 336761. So that makes it a 1/71. It came out of a 1971 I got as a basket case.

 

[tls3601]

Went for a cruise last night. Didn't get too far as the truck suddenly locked the back tires, I pushed in the clutch and rolled to a stop. Motor seized. Had to call a friend to tow me home.
Guess my mystery motor is junk.

View attachment 3110116

Sorry to hear this. What are you looking for to replace it?

 

[tls3601]

Well I ran it some after the valve adjustment. There's still a bad noise. Kind of a slapping, lite knocking sound.
Since my oil pan reseal didn't seal.....I have no reason not to check out the bottom end. I gotta dig thru my stash cause I might even have some new rod bearings.

I keep telling myself......I do this for fun. I keep positive and at least I will learn more about our beloved tractors.

Tractors is absolutely correct, gotta love it

 

[JackA]

I have another F motor to try.......that's the current plan. Worst case I use the 2F i was saving for another build.

 

[JackA]

Out with the junk......

 

[JackA]

Gave the possible replacement motor a compression check today. I bolted the flywheel, bell housing and starter on. Place the motor on a wood block and had the hoist holding it from above. I jumped the starter with the LX, while spinning the oil pump with the drill, and reading the compression gauge. I had injected some oil in the cylinders last week or 2, so it wasn't dry but not really too wet either.

I got the following numbers:
1-140 psi
2-120
3-120
4-120
5-110
6-140

Does not seem too bad. Only thing is I don't really see any oil getting to the top end. Maybe a little oozing of the rocker on top of the push rod. How long does it take to get up there?

 

[whitey45]

It can take a while for cold engine oil, i just pour oil all over the valvetrain!

 

[Living in the Past]

Can also remove the copper tube from the rocker assembly and see how much oil is flowing. Just be sure to secure the nut from slipping down the hole in the head. It can continue down into the block. The nut is made of brass and magnetic wouldn't help retrieve it.

 

[JackA]

I have the side cover off so no worries on loosing the copper feed line nut. I did undo one end and ran the drill, but never got any oil. Possibly did not run it long enough.

 

[locklaw]

Can also remove the copper tube from the rocker assembly and see how much oil is flowing. Just be sure to secure the nut from slipping down the hole in the head. It can continue down into the block. The nut is made of brass and magnetic wouldn't help retrieve it.

Add a stopper for the nut while it is outside and convenient

I have the side cover off so no worries on loosing the copper feed line nut. I did undo one end and ran the drill, but never got any oil. Possibly did not run it long enough.

Turn the motor some to line up the oil ports flowing upwards. It's a hit or miss affair and takes a fair bit of turning before you get dribbles and finally only good flow. Oil generously while it's open or if you are taking apart the rockers, I give them a good coating of engine assembly lube to help out.

I would just pull the plugs and stab the distributor so long, then you can use the starter to spin it and also verify that you have positive engagement.

 

[firemanj92]

If I remember #4 has to be TDC to see oil at the rocker arms.