Builds Live in Texas, drive a pickup: HDJ79 single cab build (4 Viewers)

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Got my buddy’s ‘66 C10 all back together and out of the barn. Time to get the 79 in there.

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Current Me wants to thank Past Me for actually organizing a few things (but only a few). I had the presence of mind to label all the clutch related stuff and keep it in one place.

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Clutch disc and cover.
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Was that you or the Canucks that organized that?
 
Dave, the h151 and all the fixin’s came from a MUDder in Arizona. He collected them all for for a manual swap into an 80 that never came to fruition.
 
Ok let’s catch up:

@AlbertoSD and @Fern1109 and I attacked the FT. @Fern1109 broight a fresh loaf of bread for the pilot bearing trick (he had never done it before).

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I’ll spare the zillion part numbers.
 
We got the motor together (new injector lines are on the way) and linked up the new h151 and the HF1A rebuilt by @orangefj45.

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We then hit a snag. The motor isolators hit the pan on the left. I realized that I had accidentally given my 80 mounts to a friend with a 1HZ I had sold him and kept the 70 mounts.

Took a trip through the Texas hill country the next day and returned the correct mounts.

Note that the 80 mounts are flatter (more horizontal) and the 70 series mounts angle downward much more sharply.

All better.

Isolators and plate part numbers shown.

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I was by myself but I had an hour’s worth of time. I was able to easily get the drivetrain in place- it took less than 15 minutes in the air to slide it home. Everything lined up. I might need to modify the right frame to motor mount to accommodate the ‘nipple’ on the bottom of the rubber isolator. It might just take a little adjustment.

All in all it was pretty satisfying.

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Leyna the shepherd was not impressed.
 
Shifter lines up!

Plate is not secured. Will nutsert it soon.

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Georg, glad that one was.

Today I cleaned up the fuel tanks and skid plates and got the rear subtank mounted. The front (main) tank has some interference on the frame because I don’t have the correct 80 series frame mounts shimmed up to correct height. I did get the correct HDJ fuel pick ups in place. The hardware is technically incorrect but it’s what I had and it fits.

77240-60490 is the main tank pickup.

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77240-60500 is the subtank pickup.

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Got my best imitation of 80 series rear cab mounts in place, which bump things up enough to get the main tank in place. Pinion is clear. Might need to gently adjust the fuel tank with a hammer a little bit, but I will wait until I get the body and cab mounts figured out. I have a new set of 80 cab mounts on order.

Also, I make solo wrenching look ELEGANT AF.
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Ta daaaa.

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Now, of course, the front of the truck pitches forward like a dragster. I added 1.5 inches of temporary spacers which corrects it to within half a degree. Will need to bolt up fenders and front core support and see where everything sits. I can tell this is going to be painful.

And I haven’t even put the bed on yet.
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Got the compressor inlet and outlet in place for the FTE turbo, putting each in good position for the front mount intercooler.

All pipes sealed with blue tape immediately after the photo op.
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That piping on the FTE turbo's really helped when I intercooled Crusty. I really liked that turbo. Spooled up nicely.
 
Tonight‘s project was trying to remember all of the harness connections. I was able to figure out (I think) which the fuel tank switching solenoids flow and how they work.

I couldn’t find my subtank switch yet, so I just used the fuel solenoid sub harness and a DC voltage supply.

Here’s what I think is going on:

My first assumption begins with the supposition that the ground state is no power to the solenoids. Assumption #2 is that closing the dash subtank switch sends 12V to the solenoids and changes the fuel path.

77710–60160 is the HDJ (12mm) main fuel tank solenoid.
77720–60130 is the HDJ (8mm) fuel tank return solenoid.

The diagrams on Partsouq and other websites show these solenoids for right hand drive HDJ79 trucks mounted on the right frame rail, and the fuel lines are running up the right frame rail. Talking to @rick_d, he suggested this is backwards. The fuel lines for my truck will need to run up the left inner frame rail, and the switching solenoids need to sit at the approximate level of the transfer case on the left frame rail.

By powering and unpowering the solenoids, here is what I was able to come up with. The solenoids appear to be voltage agnostic. It doesn’t matter which switch on the sub harness each one is plugged into, and it doesn’t matter which side is positive or ground on circuit. I tried all combinations.

At rest, (0 V to solenoids) flow goes from main tank and makes a 90 degree turn for supply and return. With 12 V applied to the solenoid, the solenoid energizes, and flow goes in a straight line from motor to subtank in the rear.

Mounting the solenoids upside down makes for a much easier path as shown below.

Tomorrow I will find my subtank switch and run power through the entire harness for a final validation.


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Interesting. The switching valves are way easier to get to on yours compared to the ones on Betty (HZJ80).
 

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