Rain Gutter seam and drip rail reseal (1 Viewer)

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makes sense. I'm not a body shop guy either ;) .
That's what I am doing. I primed my gutters with Eastwood rust encapsulator paint 2 years ago. I noticed that when I was pulling chunks of caulking off last week, the underlying paint was still in great shape.
 
That's what I am doing. I primed my gutters with Eastwood rust encapsulator paint 2 years ago. I noticed that when I was pulling chunks of caulking off last week, the underlying paint was still in great shape.
I had been of the impression that the sealers required bare metal, but it sounds like you made the right decision in priming first, especially if any existing rust hasn't spread since.
 
I’m doing this next week on two of mine. In 106 temps it ought to flow fast.
 
Well finally started this today. Sitting on rolling scaffolding was nice .Used a 1/4 in cold chisel a little bit. However I found a cheap set of angled picks from northern tools. Four picks for 10.00.These worked the best almost no damage to the paint. Thank goodness in this fj60 there is almost no rust.I found that if I got under the old sealant and lifted up with the picks using them as fulcrums I could move right down the gutter lifting as I went.A little hot 98 but not that hard, probably 4 hours total. Tomorrow clean,prime and install sealant.
 
We laid down the two part epoxy today. Personally I liked that my wife helped. The 3m drys quick,we found she needed to remove the tape when I got half of the cruiser done otherwise the tape wasn’t coming off. The fj60 was done easily with 1 and a quarter tubes. The fj62 a good 1and a half. Personally we used the clear and it flowed really well.The 3m gun while expensive worked really well. I ran the epoxy down the front until I reached the top of the chrome mirrors and let it drip down. Tha first side I did I ran it all the way,I lost a lot of material on to the paper we had put on the cruisers to catch the over flow, this is absolutely necessary to tape and paper next to your front window channels.Very nice 3m product to work with, 3 more cruisers to go.
 
We laid down the two part epoxy today. Personally I liked that my wife helped. The 3m drys quick,we found she needed to remove the tape when I got half of the cruiser done otherwise the tape wasn’t coming off. The fj60 was done easily with 1 and a quarter tubes. The fj62 a good 1and a half. Personally we used the clear and it flowed really well.The 3m gun while expensive worked really well. I ran the epoxy down the front until I reached the top of the chrome mirrors and let it drip down. Tha first side I did I ran it all the way,I lost a lot of material on to the paper we had put on the cruisers to catch the over flow, this is absolutely necessary to tape and paper next to your front window channels.Very nice 3m product to work with, 3 more cruisers to go.
How about doing photos on the last one, and telling us what you do there as well. You'll be a seasoned vet at that point, having done it four more times than most of us...
 
I’ve never posted pics,not sure how. I will say I had scared myself and delayed because I was scared of messing up and haveing to dig it out and do it again. Go slow,not when your tired,get help.and put the phone inside with no distractions.Again it drys fast. Move at a good clip keeping the tube in the new material to not create air bubbles.
 
I’ve never posted pics,not sure how. I will say I had scared myself and delayed because I was scared of messing up and haveing to dig it out and do it again. Go slow,not when your tired,get help.and put the phone inside with no distractions.Again it drys fast. Move at a good clip keeping the tube in the new material to not create air bubbles.
Mount a phone on the gun. :)
 
Bringing this thread back! Planning on doing this in the spring with the 3M Self-Leveling Seam Sealer, 08307. I have some small rust spots in the gutter that am I going to "fix" with some POR15 and fiberglass body filler (I know, you all are hating me for this, but I've never done any welding before and this is a camping rig not a show room piece) My question is it okay to hit the gutter with a coat or two of auto body paint primer before applying the 3M seam sealer? Or does the seam sealer need to be touching raw metal. Was not able to get a straight answer anywhere on here. Just trying to add another small level of protection. Also any updates on how it's held up with roof racks would be great! Thanks in advance
 
Bringing this thread back! Planning on doing this in the spring with the 3M Self-Leveling Seam Sealer, 08307. I have some small rust spots in the gutter that am I going to "fix" with some POR15 and fiberglass body filler (I know, you all are hating me for this, but I've never done any welding before and this is a camping rig not a show room piece) My question is it okay to hit the gutter with a coat or two of auto body paint primer before applying the 3M seam sealer? Or does the seam sealer need to be touching raw metal. Was not able to get a straight answer anywhere on here. Just trying to add another small level of protection. Also any updates on how it's held up with roof racks would be great! Thanks in advance
Well if it's bare metal, and water somehow someday gets under it, there go your gutters. Just thinking out loud here; I've not done this yet...
 
Well if it's bare metal, and water somehow someday gets under it, there go your gutters. Just thinking out loud here; I've not done this yet...
That's my thought too, but I could also see the chemical compound of the seam sealer only working with bare metal for some reason
 
I don't see a problem with putting down some paint first.

Also, I don't recommend POR15. Maybe someone will disgaree with me but many people have observed that the rust just comes right through. It doesn't neutralize the rust by converting it; it is purely mechanical encapsulation. I have had better success with rust converters. I like Eastwood's rust converting paints.
 
I don't see a problem with putting down some paint first.

Also, I don't recommend POR15. Maybe someone will disgaree with me but many people have observed that the rust just comes right through. It doesn't neutralize the rust by converting it; it is purely mechanical encapsulation. I have had better success with rust converters. I like Eastwood's rust converting paints.
I went through the process and covered my frame with it two years ago, and have some left over that’s why I was gonna go with por but I’ll look into the Eastwood, for some reason I thought por15 also did rust converting when it was applied but I could be wrong. I wire wheeled my whole frame when I did it. Thanks
 
How is it holding up where you applied it?
 
How is it holding up where you applied it?
It’s holding up great , I’ll probably put another two coats of paint over it next year. but like I said I hit the frame pretty hard with the angle grinder wire wheel, so I wasn’t putting it over any actual rust but they claim you can put it right over rust. Would love to hear the experience of someone whose been using it longer
 
That's my thought too, but I could also see the chemical compound of the seam sealer only working with bare metal for some reason
I would assume it should be applied to bare metal. Folks dig out the old, clean up the rail and apply. It would seem silly to add over top paint. Nor would you add new sealer over old.
Anyone of you guys able to help here? @POTATO LAUNCHER, @OSS, @cruisermatt
 
Gotta prime that s*** first at a minimum. Ideal is painting with an Epoxy primer, then body color urethane paint on top of the sealer.

That's what Toyota did.
 
Cleaned and primer-ed mine.

 
Be sure to read converter and encapsulator primers instructions because some will promote rust on clean bare metal (paint manufacturer engineer specifically responded to this question in email). I used Eastwoods, also on frame is can of $5 paint worked fine. Epoxy base did the best and held the best on frame. CruiserCult has a good YouTube video on the drip rails and ordered accordingly. This has been a great thread, @GLTHFJ60 has the best advice.

To clarify I tested several paints on frame over a few months when cleaning and repainting
 
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