What did you do with your 60 this weekend? (12 Viewers)

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Any chance these are made in warmer white, around 2700-3000k?
It’s not “factory focus mindset approach” and certainly not Japanese quality as Matt sells (the gold standard), but SuperBrightLEDs does have warmed colored festoon bulbs. I don’t want the more blue/bright white LEDs, so I went with those for now until a brighter, higher quality, longer lasting warm festoon LED shows up on the market. @ToyotaMatt …. Got a source for something like that?
 
I'm swapping out a leaky heat core today (and maybe into next weekend). There are three options with this job: 1) do it yourself; 2) pay a shop lots of $$$$ and save yourself the aggravation; 3) burn it to the ground.

I'm deep into #1 but #3 is still an option.

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Over the humps and the impulse to burn it to the ground has passed. Tips on diving into a heater core swap: 1) do it all in one session; easier to remember what fits where; 2) label stuff; 3) photo stuff. I only did about 20% of these tips since I've taken about 3 weeks on this and I've only taken 2-3 photos of wiring. I did label non-stock connections.

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I spent well over an hour reconnecting a couple of the sheathed slider lines. Struggled trying to reattach two of the U-shaped clips that secure the slider line housing and could never fully seat the clips. Finally hit upon a technique using a 10 mm wrench and pair of vise grips for popping in the clips. Setting the slider line for the valve on the firewall was very frustrating as I could not get the control to fully shift between hot and cold. Eventually discovered that the valve is frozen and will not move. New one on order.
 
I spent well over an hour reconnecting a couple of the sheathed slider lines. Struggled trying to reattach two of the U-shaped clips that secure the slider line housing and could never fully seat the clips. Finally hit upon a technique using a 10 mm wrench and pair of vise grips for popping in the clips. Setting the slider line for the valve on the firewall was very frustrating as I could not get the control to fully shift between hot and cold. Eventually discovered that the valve is frozen and will not move. New one on order.
Did you have to do anything to help the cables slide in these? A couple of mine are hard to move, namely the hot/cold selector, but the valve moves freely. I need to get that functional before cold weather gets here.
 
Did you have to do anything to help the cables slide in these? A couple of mine are hard to move, namely the hot/cold selector, but the valve moves freely. I need to get that functional before cold weather gets here.

No I haven't done anything to aid the cable movement. Aside from a frozen valve all the slider functions/cable movements are smooth in my 60.
 
Man, I’ve been thinking about doing almost exactly that for a couple years - some kind of Pendleton fabric. Did you remove all the windows and tuck the headliner in or glue it right up against the weatherstrip?
That would be awesome, or even use it as an accent to the interior. Maybe just the backside of the sunshades and accents throughout the truck? I just picked up the grizzly bear Pendleton blanket for mine. Going to make a custom leather strap setup to keep it bundled in the rear.
 
Over the humps and the impulse to burn it to the ground has passed. Tips on diving into a heater core swap: 1) do it all in one session; easier to remember what fits where; 2) label stuff; 3) photo stuff. I only did about 20% of these tips since I've taken about 3 weeks on this and I've only taken 2-3 photos of wiring. I did label non-stock connections.

View attachment 3118028

which specific heater core did you find that works? I ended up having my OEM heater core re-cored. From my experience the aftermarket heater cores don't mate properly with those two cooper tubes that are OEM from toyota. Heater core swap does suck....
 
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fair warning, the aftermarket heater cores I tried all failed ( I tried stuff from two difference sources), the only fix I saw would be to solder the heater in, which would work but would be painful in-itself, I'm not a fan at all on how the heater core (coolant tubes) mate, all I can say is...I hope never to touch that again and the reality is, parts are going to be non-existant. oh and those cool little clips that hold the coolant tubes together. I took the heater core I had and got it re-cored. Keep your OEM heater core and find a shop that will re-core it. good advice for the radiator too. (my experience). I too delayed my project and paid a hard price for screwing around too long, Start the project adn get it done and take plenty of pictures. ITs not crazy hard, jjust have to really tear the dash apart. Would be great if you could buy the OEM heater core....I recall looking at that back in the day and I think it was $300.00 or something and I thought that was crazy money..for what it was. That was before I had the pleasure of having to swap one, I wish I would have bought 2 of those things, along with the clips, don't know if you can get those short coolant tubes new.... or not, but I guess not, likely have to rob of a parts truck if you had a source.
 
which specific heater core did you find that works? I ended up having my OEM heater core re-cored. From my experience the aftermarket heater cores don't mate properly with those two cooper tubes that are OEM from toyota. Heater core swap does suck....
All this talk is making me think I need to clean mine out. My system barely moves any air on full blast so I thought it was the fan. I'll add this to the to-do list when I remove my dash.
 
Since I'm retired, I have a very long weekend each week, so...technically, I replaced the brake cylinders and shoes (had the drums turned) on my First and second Saturday of the week. That would be Monday and Tuesday to the non-retirees.
 
While doing the c channels I poked around with the air chisel in the rust between the rear most cross member and the bumper. It looks like the rust that grows in the middle pushed down the center portion as it grew, same as it does with the c channels. All the crap accumulates where the bumper and cross member come together. I just wanted to confirm, the center portion where those two bolts attach the bumper should be at the same "level" as the other ones on the side, right? If so I'll get some replacement metal and weld it in once I clean it up and push it back up. Thankfully this is the worst rust on the truck.
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Based on this image, it is
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I deserve an award for the longest c channel replacement in 60 series history. It's going on 2 years now. I hope to wrap it up this year. I drill out a few rivets at a time, then I zipped the remnant channel in half horizontally and pry the upper half off. I have a few rivets left then just the two rivets on the leaf spring hanger. I'll replace the suspension when I do that.

Big chunks of rust come out, very satisfying. *** I tell myself the rust comes from the C channel I'm removing, not the frame.

Today I zipped a little too deep and made about a 2" long 1-2 mm deep cut in the frame. I guess after practising with that thickness when I weld the rear cross member back up it should be easy enough to fill that in with some weld.

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Any chance these are made in warmer white, around 2700-3000k?
It’s not “factory focus mindset approach” and certainly not Japanese quality as Matt sells (the gold standard), but SuperBrightLEDs does have warmed colored festoon bulbs. I don’t want the more blue/bright white LEDs, so I went with those for now until a brighter, higher quality, longer lasting warm festoon LED shows up on the market. @ToyotaMatt …. Got a source for something like that?


i only offer the brightest 8000K range because that's what 99% of folks want and like .......:cool:


its hard to offer up smaller desired things because you are then challenged to make it obtainable to the common FEMALE owner operator or man .........:confused:




that's the why on that
 
Finished the Power Window fix per @LA Z (upgrade to the fix first posted by @slcfj62). The window relays are direct wired to the battery (fused) with a local ground. All switches operate as they should and I no longer have lazy windows. I had previously replaced all the window channels, lubed the mechanisms and rebuilt the driver's door relay box (actually...@Spook50 rebuilt the green box). Those changes made the front windows OK (up-down in about 5 seconds), and greatly improved the rear windows from barely moving to 6-8 seconds up). The rears now go up/down in 4 seconds flat after relay install. I'm ready to add the vapor barrier and forget ever opening these doors again.

Video of before/after for rear windows:

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