Tailgate repair & recolor by a novice.....on a budget (1 Viewer)

[PanhandleFJ]

Sunday and yesterday were break days since I wanted to spend the time with my kids, start my new job and was taken out to a birthday dinner last night, but was back at it today and finished welding the large patch into place. Fortunately I'm borrowing my mother's 4Runner so I have a driveable vehicle (on the condition that I change the oil, ha). The wonky tacks on the left are holes that I filled in after blending down the first welds. Overall I'm happy with how I've been able to avoid any real warping. Now to do the second patch, get a bunch more abrasive discs for my die grinder and see how much punishment my air compressor can take....

View attachment 3101893

When you're doing a patch like that, do you have to weld the entire perimeter?

 

[Spook50]

When you're doing a patch like that, do you have to weld the entire perimeter?

Absolutely. If it's not fully welded you run a much higher risk of moisture and corrosion causing elements working their way into the seam. With these though if you run a continuous bead you'll warp the sheet metal, so it's all a series of tacks as I've gone around to keep the metal aligned and prevent warping.

 

[CruiserTrash]

Absolutely. If it's not fully welded you run a much higher risk of moisture and corrosion causing elements working their way into the seam. With these though if you run a continuous bead you'll warp the sheet metal, so it's all a series of tacks as I've gone around to keep the metal aligned and prevent warping.

Thanks for the lesson. I'm smarter now than I was 5 minutes ago!

 

[PanhandleFJ]

Absolutely. If it's not fully welded you run a much higher risk of moisture and corrosion causing elements working their way into the seam. With these though if you run a continuous bead you'll warp the sheet metal, so it's all a series of tacks as I've gone around to keep the metal aligned and prevent warping.

Ok, i didn't realize that. Looking good though. I've got several areas that need that treatment.

 

[2mbb]

It's too late now, but I've been watching some of Ron Covell's videos on shaping metal. he does a lot with jigs he makes himself. one example is linked below.

 

[PanhandleFJ]

It's too late now, but I've been watching some of Ron Covell's videos on shaping metal. he does a lot with jigs he makes himself. one example is linked below.

What brand and model of welder are you using? I haven't bought one yet.

 

[Spook50]

It's too late now, but I've been watching some of Ron Covell's videos on shaping metal. he does a lot with jigs he makes himself. one example is linked below.

Something I'll have to keep in mind next time I have to shape anything. Luckily this patch was the most "complex" of all the spots needing body work, so I may have started myself on a much higher note than I otherwise would've

@PanhandleFJ assuming you were asking me, my Mig is an early generation Millermatic 211 dual voltage that was a 30th birthday gift from my folks. I primarily use solid core wire and have a cylinder of C25 I use for shielding gas. Works GREAT and minimal spatter. I HATE using flux core, but I keep a spool of 0.030 in case I have to do any work outdoors in windy conditions where I care only about a quality weld and nothing for appearance.

 

[PanhandleFJ]

Something I'll have to keep in mind next time I have to shape anything. Luckily this patch was the most "complex" of all the spots needing body work, so I may have started myself on a much higher note than I otherwise would've

@PanhandleFJ assuming you were asking me, my Mig is an early generation Millermatic 211 dual voltage that was a 30th birthday gift from my folks. I primarily use solid core wire and have a cylinder of C25 I use for shielding gas. Works GREAT and minimal spatter. I HATE using flux core, but I keep a spool of 0.030 in case I have to do any work outdoors in windy conditions where I care only about a quality weld and nothing for appearance.

Thanks Spook50, I'm trying to decide what to get so I can do some of the repairs I need to do. I've removed the front fenders to make it easier to remove the body from the chassis. There's a couple spots where the outer fender bolts to the inner fender or wheel well that have a little rust around the welded nut. I thought I would be waiting until next year to do all the body work but there's a little that needs to be done at this stage of the engine swap. Do you think the welder you have would also weld motor mounts? Or is that a bigger or different welder?

 

[Spook50]

Thanks Spook50, I'm trying to decide what to get so I can do some of the repairs I need to do. I've removed the front fenders to make it easier to remove the body from the chassis. There's a couple spots where the outer fender bolts to the inner fender or wheel well that have a little rust around the welded nut. I thought I would be waiting until next year to do all the body work but there's a little that needs to be done at this stage of the engine swap. Do you think the welder you have would also weld motor mounts? Or is that a bigger or different welder?

It would do great with the motor mounts honestly, but I would make sure you've got it plugged into a 220V circuit. I'd have to double check but I think I have mine on a 30A breaker (which is a dedicated circuit for the welder). For the mounts you could run either 0.030" or 0.035" wire, but on the body work I would definitely get the rollers and electrode to run 0.024" wire. Much more control that way. I would've avoided most if not all of my holes had I been using 0.024" wire.

 

[tmxmotorsports]

It would do great with the motor mounts honestly, but I would make sure you've got it plugged into a 220V circuit. I'd have to double check but I think I have mine on a 30A breaker (which is a dedicated circuit for the welder). For the mounts you could run either 0.030" or 0.035" wire, but on the body work I would definitely get the rollers and electrode to run 0.24" wire. Much more control that way. I would've avoided most if not all of my holes had I been using 0.024" wire.

Definitely. 024 for sheet metal work.

 

[adman02]

Check out Fitzees Fabrications on YouTube. He does amazing body repair with minimal tools.

 

[Spook50]

Check out Fitzees Fabrications on YouTube. He does amazing body repair with minimal tools.

Yep he's a great resource for learning from the start. Watched a bunch of his videos before I dove in.

 

[Spook50]

Couple weeks of minimal progress made due to focusing time on my kids and my new job, but made some serious headway last night and today. Didn't get a picture, but one of my "muscle memory" habits from welding thicker stuff popped up and bit me in the arse today and I blew a hole in my smaller patch (underneath the license plate light assembly). Without thinking, I pushed my weld "uphill" and put too much heat into the metal, causing a hole to form. Knew right away what I did, straightened up and let out a "you damn dummy". So that cost me some time, but I got the hole filled and all the welds finished and blended down on the patches.

Almost done blending down the welds and about to massage the sheet metal as uniform as I can.

This spot is where it's the worst, but there was no way for me to avoid this happening. I'm thinking this is because it's so close to the edge where the sheet metal is folded over the seam and there just wasn't enough material to prop it up straight while I welded the patch in place. I'm sure someone more experienced in body work could've done it, but with my near zero experience and limited tooling, this was the closest I could get this particular section to even. Sadly there's going to end up being body filler used here. BOOOOOOOOOOOO. Fortunately, even though it looks much worse in the pic, it's only just over 1.16" gap, so not horrible. To be honest I'm considering grabbing a dent puller kit and slide hammer from Harbor Freight and seeing if I can pull this out a bit more. @kelly saad how would you go about minimizing a dip in an area like this? Any other body work pros here that can weigh in? No paint on yet so I'm open to ideas.

Weld beads finally blended down, and three coats of Chassis Saver applied to fill in any tiny imperfections, gouges and scratches (also some applied to the back side of the patches). Gotta wait 24hrs before I can rough it up to apply body filler, but in the meantime I can clean up the license plate light holder and maybe finish my NES project while I sit up with a mug of beer. Once I can get body filler in place, I'll be sanding for uniformity, applying epoxy primer (might not be necessary, but since I have the whole part removed I may as well just do it), then FINALLY paint and a few days to cure completely.

And just for grins, I found a decal while clearing off a kitchen counter (where all my unorganized junk is piled up) and figured my welder was the perfect spot for it

 

[kelly saad]

Couple weeks of minimal progress made due to focusing time on my kids and my new job, but made some serious headway last night and today. Didn't get a picture, but one of my "muscle memory" habits from welding thicker stuff popped up and bit me in the arse today and I blew a hole in my smaller patch (underneath the license plate light assembly). Without thinking, I pushed my weld "uphill" and put too much heat into the metal, causing a hole to form. Knew right away what I did, straightened up and let out a "you damn dummy". So that cost me some time, but I got the hole filled and all the welds finished and blended down on the patches.

Almost done blending down the welds and about to massage the sheet metal as uniform as I can.
View attachment 3111563


This spot is where it's the worst, but there was no way for me to avoid this happening. I'm thinking this is because it's so close to the edge where the sheet metal is folded over the seam and there just wasn't enough material to prop it up straight while I welded the patch in place. I'm sure someone more experienced in body work could've done it, but with my near zero experience and limited tooling, this was the closest I could get this particular section to even. Sadly there's going to end up being body filler used here. BOOOOOOOOOOOO. Fortunately, even though it looks much worse in the pic, it's only just over 1.16" gap, so not horrible. To be honest I'm considering grabbing a dent puller kit and slide hammer from Harbor Freight and seeing if I can pull this out a bit more. @kelly saad how would you go about minimizing a dip in an area like this? Any other body work pros here that can weigh in? No paint on yet so I'm open to ideas.
View attachment 3111569


Weld beads finally blended down, and three coats of Chassis Saver applied to fill in any tiny imperfections, gouges and scratches (also some applied to the back side of the patches). Gotta wait 24hrs before I can rough it up to apply body filler, but in the meantime I can clean up the license plate light holder and maybe finish my NES project while I sit up with a mug of beer. Once I can get body filler in place, I'll be sanding for uniformity, applying epoxy primer (might not be necessary, but since I have the whole part removed I may as well just do it), then FINALLY paint and a few days to cure completely.
View attachment 3111577


And just for grins, I found a decal while clearing off a kitchen counter (where all my unorganized junk is piled up) and figured my welder was the perfect spot for it
View attachment 3111578

That can be tough sometimes. I try to get a pry bar behind the seam I am welding to hold it in place, especially if it's under pressure and will end up with a low spot like you have. It's good to have it slightly low so that you have somewhere to apply the filler. Otherwise you will fight the high spots from the welds. Also, sometimes you can get the repair almost perfect, and when you grind it, the seam will cave in and all your work is trashed from the heat of grinding it. I move really slow with the welds and grinding, and try to keep the heat down, you must be patient. If it is a sensitive area, I will grind my welds slowly with the edge of a cutoff wheel on my grinder. It is more concentrated or specifically targeted only on the weld and much less heat. It takes forever though.

Check your seam sealer on the bottom of the tailgate. Strip it off with a wire wheel on a drill. and If you see rust or bubbles, the whole lower section will be rusty. I normally just cut them off and replace them even if they look perfect on the outside. They are always rusty. I can make that part and ship it to you if it helps. But check it anyway.

I love seeing this work, Good job!!!

 

[Spook50]

That can be tough sometimes. I try to get a pry bar behind the seam I am welding to hold it in place, especially if it's under pressure and will end up with a low spot like you have. It's good to have it slightly low so that you have somewhere to apply the filler. Otherwise you will fight the high spots from the welds. Also, sometimes you can get the repair almost perfect, and when you grind it, the seam will cave in and all your work is trashed from the heat of grinding it. I move really slow with the welds and grinding, and try to keep the heat down, you must be patient. If it is a sensitive area, I will grind my welds slowly with the edge of a cutoff wheel on my grinder. It is more concentrated or specifically targeted only on the weld and much less heat. It takes forever though.

Check your seam sealer on the bottom of the tailgate. Strip it off with a wire wheel on a drill. and If you see rust or bubbles, the whole lower section will be rusty. I normally just cut them off and replace them even if they look perfect on the outside. They are always rusty. I can make that part and ship it to you if it helps. But check it anyway.

I love seeing this work, Good job!!!

Awesome hearing that the cutoff wheel trick was a good idea. That's what I had been doing with my die grinder and then changing out with 2" abrasive pads to fully blend the weld and keep the heat from building up like you described. I wish I had thought of a pry bar when I welded to push the seam up level while in process. Do you think that gap I have right now is worth trying a stud type dent puller on, or should I just stick with body filler for it? I'm honestly tempted to attempt the puller in an effort to minimize filler being used (and the potential for future cracks), but on the other hand my money is tight so if it's not recommended I'll save my money. This is my lack of experience here creating a conundrum.

The seam sealer and inside of the tailgate actually look shockingly good. No sign at all of any bubbling or any surface rust at all. I think that's from spraying Fluid Film inside towards the bottom every time I had my cover (replaced the carpet pad with a bolt on sheet of diamond plate years ago) off. Been doing that for maybe ten years or so now in there and a couple times a year in the doors too. A bit messy but it sure seems to have kept any corrosion away.

 

[Spook50]

Well I ended up dropping $100 on a tool I wouldn't have needed had I thought to use a pry bar to avoid the sagged weld seam on the outboard edge of my tailgate. Chalk it up as part of the learning experience I suppose. There are plenty of other spots on my truck I'll be able to use it in the future so it's certainly not like the money will have been wasted.

The dent repair kit I picked up at Harbor Freight. This works surprisingly well, and you can get refills of the 2mm and 3mm pegs it uses.

I used six 3mm pegs along the length of the sagged seam and with a few hits on each one with the slide hammer, I got it pulled up to an almost perfect, even height.

Some coarse block sanding to even out the surface a little more....

And a couple more coats of Chassis Saver to seal and slightly build up the low points (scratches, gouges and little pits)

I'm wondering if diluting the Chassis Saver might've made it spread and self level a little easier, but that didn't occur to me until I closed up shop for tonight. Just going to have to be a bit aggressive with the smoothing before I apply the tiny amount of filler I'll end up needing and then sanding that and priming. I likely won't on the bulk of my truck, but any panels I'm able to actually remove to recolor I'm thinking I will.

 

[aztoyman]

Looking good. I have body work ahead on my project and I'm definitely not a body guy. I may get one of those dent pullers myself.

 

[Spook50]

Bit more progress tonight. Smoothed the edge where I cut the center out, welded the holes closed where I drilled out the spot welds, and more Chassis Saver on the back sides of the patches and to give some protection to any low spots that may remain after sanding prior to priming. Tomorrow hopefully (if not tomorrow then Thursday) will be body filler over the large patch and sanding that smooth in preparation for primer. I'd love to find a way to hang it so I can prime both sides of the tailgate without flipping it front to back to do each side. Difficult to get a good picture from a "holding the phone up and press the button" perspective, but here's where I sit with the inner side...

To be completely honest, since I'll be using epoxy primer, I think the only places I NEEDED to use Chassis Saver was on the inside (the back sides of the patches). Likely overkill using it as much as I did for this job.

 

[Spook50]

Mix Bondo, apply thin layer, let cure, block sand, mix more Bondo, apply thin layer, let cure, block sand, mix more Bondo, apply thin layer, let cure, block sand....

"Oh hi carpal tunnel symptoms it's been a while....."

 

[micruz60]

The stud gun / dent puller is an excellent tool. Only a C-note at hoorroorFright?, I may 'need' to get one myself, to reduce the carpal tunnel and other mobility issues associated with hammer and dolly, sanding blocks et cetera.
Epoxy paint will definitely seal up the panel, looking good!