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- #21
Project or POS? (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter travistheone
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- #22
No bueno
Wow. This is from Baltimore? Maybe too much time at the beach? Since this was "gifted" with "extensive maintenance records" I would get this truck descaled and put a Corroseal type product on it like mentioned above. Then make your assessment of what do with this truck. May be worth it to get this repaired if all else lines up but I suspect it is very rusty in all the other areas that normally plague the LC.
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- #24
that perforation in the above pic scares me a bit. didn't see it until today.
As long as the main frame rails are good then this can be fixed for a professional frame repair shop. I believe the entire rear cross section is still available via Toyota parts but I could be wrong. This area is a normal rusty area of concern. This is why it was pointed out. Descale it and make your assessment. This assumes the rest of the truck is legit. Drive to Leesburg and I will look it over with you. BTW: if you hit that spot with a hammer it would just fall to pieces.
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- #26
I am looking into professional frame shops now. they are few and far between, from my searching so far.
i hit it with a wire brush and quite a bit came off. the pack rust can be 10x the thickness of the actual section, but its a big hole for sure.
I was thinking about taking it to Land Cruiser Heaven in Hagerstown or Aylestock Automotive out that direction in Lovettsville.
Wow that’s pretty bad for so far south…Did the guy put boats in and out? Get a needle scaler and start knocking it loose. Find a welder friend too.
Frame definitely has some concerns for me. That being said, if I was gifted a running/driving vehicle, I'd try and maximize its use and minimize its cost, getting the most benefit out of the gift as possible. Wouldn't want it to become a headache project or time and money pit. So I'd have a frame shop do a safety check-up and maybe some minor repairs/coating, then baseline maintenance and daily it until it dies. Which in the case of a stock 100 series, may be 15 years if the rust doesn't get it first, haha.
But either way, looking forward to seeing what you do with it!
But either way, looking forward to seeing what you do with it!
Accidental double-post.
There’s a shop up in CT called SafeTCaps. They don’t sell ones for LCs but they’ve been repairing Tacos and 4Runners for awhile.
www.autorust.com
autorust.com
Auto Rust restores your car chassis to new condition with our frame saving Safe-T-Cap Kits. we’ll extend the life of your car and save you $1,000’s of dollars.
D21FJ60
#LiveLaughLove.
If it's passed inspection for at least another year (unless you guys dont have to inspect older cars like this) drive it while trouble shooting. So far what you've posted can be repaired, at a cost. But is that cost less than buying a much cleaner (rust wise) 100 series? If so, go for it. If not, go for it
kill it with fire.....in all seriousness, the cross member would need to be replaced at minimum. Your rear upper and lower control arms are also doodoo and need replacement. I am guessing that your transmission mount and front diff mounts are also pretty fugly. If you are handy these things can be fixed at home,but the part$ will add up quickly.
Maryland only has inspections when you buy not yearly like PA, so I’ve been told years ago. It’s had some ugly 100s I looked at and passes on.
If it's not about to break in half drive the free vehicle and save up for a rust free one. Use it as a parts donor for little nic nacs that may still be good on it...
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- #35
yes and with 20+ year old cars we do not need to inspect at all for tags.
Skeeter around the corner is going to look at it next week. maybe weld in a patch for short term.
If your handy pick up a rust less 100s that’s seen better days on the inside and swap interiors over? I’d still drive that tills it’s dead
Fuel lines and brake lines are going to be your number one concern. A rusted vehicle is a rusted vehicle, there isn’t any real changing that outside of slowing it down. But a rusted vehicle that cannot go or worse yet, cannot stop, is a dangerous situation. The 3 hard fuel lines can be purchased from Toyota, I snagged a set of them for $146 with a few gaskets that are necessary for replacing the fuel tank. Given our conditions are nearly identical, I would start by inspecting the condition of those lines. The fact you have already noticed a leak above the tank and I can see some of the crusted lines in your pics, tells me your fuel lines are shot or close to it.
I have said to is a hundred times in rusty vehicle posts; Anything is fixable, whether you can fix it or choose that it’s worth it, determines if it will be fixed. My situation is, I paid $4500 for mine about 4.5 years ago with a stack of great maintenance docs and have put very little into it aside from standard maintenance. I have gotten my money out of it and then some, so spending money on it now comes down to, is it worth it? In my eyes, yes. Is my truck pretty damn rusty compared to most on here, most definitely. However, can it go to the same places a rust-free example can, absolutely- and pretty care free since I’ve gotten my monies worth and don’t concern myself with a giant tree rash going down the side. I got lucky and my brake lines were all new when I bought it. I have a new tank, skid, fuel filter, and fuel lines on deck to go in (once I find the time). I am constantly trying to stay ahead of the rust getting worse, which requires some creative methods lol. I chopped out my rockers and welded in 2x6 1/8 wall tubing as a “replacement” for roached rockers. Anything is fixable.
I have said to is a hundred times in rusty vehicle posts; Anything is fixable, whether you can fix it or choose that it’s worth it, determines if it will be fixed. My situation is, I paid $4500 for mine about 4.5 years ago with a stack of great maintenance docs and have put very little into it aside from standard maintenance. I have gotten my money out of it and then some, so spending money on it now comes down to, is it worth it? In my eyes, yes. Is my truck pretty damn rusty compared to most on here, most definitely. However, can it go to the same places a rust-free example can, absolutely- and pretty care free since I’ve gotten my monies worth and don’t concern myself with a giant tree rash going down the side. I got lucky and my brake lines were all new when I bought it. I have a new tank, skid, fuel filter, and fuel lines on deck to go in (once I find the time). I am constantly trying to stay ahead of the rust getting worse, which requires some creative methods lol. I chopped out my rockers and welded in 2x6 1/8 wall tubing as a “replacement” for roached rockers. Anything is fixable.
The frame and body has rust in all the usual places, no surprises there. I would choose one of the following two options:
Option 1 Keep: If you are handy or can afford to pay someone, fix the fuel and brake lines, do bare minimum repairs and drive it for the next 5 years and then junk it. Scrape off as much rust as you can and then spray corroseal, por 15 or somesuch to slow down the rust.
DO NOT SPEND a ton of money to bring it to tip top shape. It won't be as enjoyable as a well maintained Cruiser but it will give you 5 years of service during which time you can save some money and buy something better.
Option 2 Dump: This is still a $6k to $8k vehicle. Post if for sale, get your cash out and take the person who gifted it to you out for fancy dinner to thank them. Use the money as down payment for something nicer.
If you are interested in a longer term LC ownership and want to enjoy it, I will most definitely not waste time or money on something this rusty. This is not coming from rust snob! I live in rust belt and my last one (98 LX) was a little better than yours rust wise. Still I ended up spending $6k+ in my fight with the rust! I used to get cold air rushing in the cabin in winter from all sorts of weird places until I ripped the whole interior out and welded shut all the little holes in the body.
Rusty vehicles make simple maintenance difficult too. Every bolt snaps off and every fastener wants to fight you!
BTW the rear O2 sensor doesn't throw a CEL, so if you want, you can just ties to a side and weld shut the hole for it
Option 1 Keep: If you are handy or can afford to pay someone, fix the fuel and brake lines, do bare minimum repairs and drive it for the next 5 years and then junk it. Scrape off as much rust as you can and then spray corroseal, por 15 or somesuch to slow down the rust.
DO NOT SPEND a ton of money to bring it to tip top shape. It won't be as enjoyable as a well maintained Cruiser but it will give you 5 years of service during which time you can save some money and buy something better.
Option 2 Dump: This is still a $6k to $8k vehicle. Post if for sale, get your cash out and take the person who gifted it to you out for fancy dinner to thank them. Use the money as down payment for something nicer.
If you are interested in a longer term LC ownership and want to enjoy it, I will most definitely not waste time or money on something this rusty. This is not coming from rust snob! I live in rust belt and my last one (98 LX) was a little better than yours rust wise. Still I ended up spending $6k+ in my fight with the rust! I used to get cold air rushing in the cabin in winter from all sorts of weird places until I ripped the whole interior out and welded shut all the little holes in the body.
Rusty vehicles make simple maintenance difficult too. Every bolt snaps off and every fastener wants to fight you!
BTW the rear O2 sensor doesn't throw a CEL, so if you want, you can just ties to a side and weld shut the hole for it
- Thread starter
- #39
I hear ya with the cold air rushing in comment, i have had some great s***boxes in the past. nothing like hitting a pothole and having something fall through the floorboard onto the road!The frame and body has rust in all the usual places, no surprises there. I would choose one of the following two options:
Option 1 Keep: If you are handy or can afford to pay someone, fix the fuel and brake lines, do bare minimum repairs and drive it for the next 5 years and then junk it. Scrape off as much rust as you can and then spray corroseal, por 15 or somesuch to slow down the rust.
DO NOT SPEND a ton of money to bring it to tip top shape. It won't be as enjoyable as a well maintained Cruiser but it will give you 5 years of service during which time you can save some money and buy something better.
Option 2 Dump: This is still a $6k to $8k vehicle. Post if for sale, get your cash out and take the person who gifted it to you out for fancy dinner to thank them. Use the money as down payment for something nicer.
If you are interested in a longer term LC ownership and want to enjoy it, I will most definitely not waste time or money on something this rusty. This is not coming from rust snob! I live in rust belt and my last one (98 LX) was a little better than yours rust wise. Still I ended up spending $6k+ in my fight with the rust! I used to get cold air rushing in the cabin in winter from all sorts of weird places until I ripped the whole interior out and welded shut all the little holes in the body.
Rusty vehicles make simple maintenance difficult too. Every bolt snaps off and every fastener wants to fight you!
BTW the rear O2 sensor doesn't throw a CEL, so if you want, you can just ties to a side and weld shut the hole for it
I would sell it and upgrade, no question. Could spend 10-12 and get something twice as good. I have it in a shop right now that thinks he can work some field expedient magic to buy a little time. i will see what he says tomorrow.
If you don't need the transportation in the short term, I'd part it out and put the money toward a less rusty example...
Or, get a loan for a less rusty example, swap any parts you need over, and then part it out to pay down the loan. If you decide to keep it, invest in an oxy/acetylene rig as you'll likely need it to remove every single bolt.
Or, get a loan for a less rusty example, swap any parts you need over, and then part it out to pay down the loan. If you decide to keep it, invest in an oxy/acetylene rig as you'll likely need it to remove every single bolt.
