What did you do on your 70 series today? (42 Viewers)

[thebill]

New front window rubbers. The power regulators are really tired. With the new window runs they can barely push the glass up with the extra friction. Definitely doing manual-crank conversion in the spring. Both vent windows were cemented into the lower channel with what I believe to be grey RTV. That was super fun to deal with.

 

[JDMBC]

This thing is so sick.

Thank you! I’m quite fond of it as well!

 

[Felde]

Put on the decal of the Buschtaxi High Mileage Club I received this weekend..
My BJ73 is at 316.700 km now.

 

[mt72]

New front window rubbers. The power regulators are really tired. With the new window runs they can barely push the glass up with the extra friction. Definitely doing manual-crank conversion in the spring. Both vent windows were cemented into the lower channel with what I believe to be grey RTV. That was super fun to deal with.
View attachment 3112436View attachment 3112437View attachment 3112438View attachment 3112439

Those are hard to put in place went through this during the winter my finger were dead

 

[thebill]

Those are hard to put in place went through this during the winter my finger were dead

Cold weather was definitely working against you. I left the seals in the sun while I prepped.

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

Parked next to this guy today at lunch.

Looks like it's pretty freshly painted. No marker lights or exterior mirrors installed.

 

[Irish11]

Took the 73 out for the annual Seattle Cruiserheads BBQ. Good turn out from all the other series (must have been 20+ in total), but I was the only 70 there.

 

[Guyute]

Swapped a Provent catch can out for a HPD unit yesterday. Super blingy but nicely made. Also retorqued the new spacers after the 50-100 miles and new lug nuts all around. Finally rid of those keyed lugs. Not sure about the wheel/tire combo. Feel good, stable, not too loud yet... but they'd sit just right and look better without flares. Don't have a trip planned until late October to see how they do.

 

[mt72]

Floors are sealed in every crack, cabin floor, and exterior floor and have been #raptorized
Next will be apron, fuel tanks and water tank

 

[Guyute]

Floors are sealed in every crack, cabin floor, and exterior floor and have been #raptorized
Next will be apron, fuel tanks and water water

View attachment 3114906

Looks great. But... man. That pictures messes with my head.

 

[mt72]

Looks great. But... man. That pictures messes with my head.

Flip your screen

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

We had a little meet & greet last night as well. Grilled brats, drank beer & talked cruisers. Two J7s present, lots of wagons, I remember when the 'club' was mostly 40's and one or two wagons, numbers have flipped.

 

[JuanJ]

New front window rubbers. The power regulators are really tired. With the new window runs they can barely push the glass up with the extra friction. Definitely doing manual-crank conversion in the spring. Both vent windows were cemented into the lower channel with what I believe to be grey RTV. That was super fun to deal with.

Hello,

That RTV explains why you had such a hard time pulling that part out. It should not be there.

Was the clear plastic seal there, between the door card and the door body?

Creative mechanics, I guess.

Carbon builds up in the contact plates inside the regulator switches as time passes, thus rendering them hard to operate.

You can disassemble the switches and clean the carbon deposits. This is a way to keep them functional until they give up the ghost.

Or you can replace them rather than going hand crank.

Make sure you put in a clear plastic seal in the door body with double faced adhesive tape. It helps to keep dust away.





Juan

 

[Gun Runner 5]

Is this one part or two separate parts?

 

[roma042987]

Took a three hour detour to Yuma before hoping on a flight from Phoenix to sneak in a few minutes of wrench time on the 71. I had intended to pick up my rear third from Zuk yesterday with the newly installed e-locker but found out at the last minute the newer 70 series take a 100/200 series carrier with 32 spline axles instead of the more common 9.5" 30 spline. I went ahead cleaned the old gasket off the axle housing and installed the factory auxiliary fuse block. I'm still trying to source the bracket for said fuse block but took some measurements in case I have to make my own.

 

[clintnz]

Hello,

That RTV explains why you had such a hard time pulling that part out. It should not be there.

Was the clear plastic seal there, between the door card and the door body?

Creative mechanics, I guess.

Carbon builds up in the contact plates inside the regulator switches as time passes, thus rendering them hard to operate.

You can disassemble the switches and clean the carbon deposits. This is a way to keep them functional until they give up the ghost.

Or you can replace them rather than going hand crank.

Make sure you put in a clear plastic seal in the door body with double faced adhesive tape. It helps to keep dust away.





Juan

Thanks for the tips, my electric windows are also getting very lazy! Where are those regulator switches? In the door or ?

Cheers
Clint

 

[JuanJ]

Thanks for the tips, my electric windows are also getting very lazy! Where are those regulator switches? In the door or ?

Cheers
Clint

Hello,

They are in the door.

This is a picture of mine.

I could extend its life by disassembling it, cleaning the carbon buildup and reassembling it.

I am afraid I do not have pictures of the disassembly and clean up.








Juan

 

[AirheadNut]

Thanks for the tips, my electric windows are also getting very lazy! Where are those regulator switches? In the door or ?

Cheers
Clint

I recently lubricated my driver’s window regulator and it made a huge difference in the smoothness and speed of the power window. I used a spray silicone on the regulator pivots and a dab of grease on the little plastic rollers. The passenger window needs it next, and I should probably go ahead and do both rears as well.

 

[thebill]

Is this one part or two separate parts?View attachment 3115417

It’s the channel that the 1/4 window sits in, with a heathy coat of RTV in place of the proper rubber cushion. The channel is one break-formed piece.

 

[thebill]

Hello,

That RTV explains why you had such a hard time pulling that part out. It should not be there.

Was the clear plastic seal there, between the door card and the door body?

Creative mechanics, I guess.

Carbon builds up in the contact plates inside the regulator switches as time passes, thus rendering them hard to operate.

You can disassemble the switches and clean the carbon deposits. This is a way to keep them functional until they give up the ghost.

Or you can replace them rather than going hand crank.

Make sure you put in a clear plastic seal in the door body with double faced adhesive tape. It helps to keep dust away.





Juan

Thanks as always, Juan.
Yes, I need to make the plastic vapor barriers.
The switches work with some specific input but they are mechanically shot and the motors make some wonderful noises. If I’m going to put new regulators in, I’d prefer to go manual. I like the simplicity.