Head Unit Install Question. (1 Viewer)

[cruxarche]

I am replacing a failed Kenwood single din radio in my 93. The PO removed the factory amp next to the glove box but left the dash speakers connected. I have removed the rear sub and amp as well as dash speakers. I will only be using four door speakers powered by the HU and a powered sub in the rear cargo panel. The Kenwood was installed with a standard aftermarket two-connector harness directly behind the head unit.

The new head unit (sony DSX-GS80) is 45x4 watts rms. Given the potential for current to exceed rated capacity of factory wiring, I will install power directly by 10awg from under hood fuse box.

Questions:
The Kenwood was connected to the two plugs in the dash directly behind the head unit. I have seen several references to folks adding 18” of wire and connecting the head unit to plugs behind the pass speaker cover. What is the difference between the two sets of connectors In the two locations?

The red wire is labeled power ACC and I am assuming that does not need to be upgraded from factory?

Yellow (constant power) and black ( ground) both will get upgraded to 10 awg. Where is the best place to splice into the harness for these wires? Right before they enter the black connector that plugs into the radio?

Thanks for any advice.

 

[ppc]

I have seen several references to folks adding 18” of wire and connecting the head unit to plugs behind the pass speaker cover. What is the difference between the two sets of connectors In the two locations?

The LX450 does not have the two connectors behind the head unit and requires the wiring extension. The Land Cruiser models have the two plugs.

 

[cruxarche]

The LX450 does not have the two connectors behind the head unit and requires the wiring extension. The Land Cruiser models have the two plugs.

Thanks for that. One issue cleared up!

 

[Pascoscout]

I am replacing a failed Kenwood single din radio in my 93. The PO removed the factory amp next to the glove box but left the dash speakers connected. I have removed the rear sub and amp as well as dash speakers. I will only be using four door speakers powered by the HU and a powered sub in the rear cargo panel. The Kenwood was installed with a standard aftermarket two-connector harness directly behind the head unit.

The new head unit (sony DSX-GS80) is 45x4 watts rms. Given the potential for current to exceed rated capacity of factory wiring, I will install power directly by 10awg from under hood fuse box.

Questions:
The Kenwood was connected to the two plugs in the dash directly behind the head unit. I have seen several references to folks adding 18” of wire and connecting the head unit to plugs behind the pass speaker cover. What is the difference between the two sets of connectors In the two locations?

The red wire is labeled power ACC and I am assuming that does not need to be upgraded from factory?

Yellow (constant power) and black ( ground) both will get upgraded to 10 awg. Where is the best place to splice into the harness for these wires? Right before they enter the black connector that plugs into the radio?

Thanks for any advice.

If you are running 10awg from the engine compartment the best way is to not splice into your factory harness at all. I’d eithe unpin the two wires from the connector, source new pins, and completely replace them or just connect your new wires directly to the pigtails from the head unit.

 

[cruxarche]

If you are running 10awg from the engine compartment the best way is to not splice into your factory harness at all. I’d eithe unpin the two wires from the connector, source new pins, and completely replace them or just connect your new wires directly to the pigtails from the head unit.

Thanks. I don’t think I was clear enough in my description. I was not planning on splicing into the factory harness. I was trying to figure out where I should splice the 10awg from the battery into the generic radio harness. Sounds like the best approach is to tap Into the yellow and black wires just before they enter the black connector that plugs into the back of the head unit. So I will cut and cap those two wires between the white generic connector ( that connects to the factory harness) and the black connector that plugs into the head unit. Maybe I’ll use a power pole so they can be easily disconnected.

 

[gummycarbs]

Yellow (constant power) and black ( ground) both will get upgraded to 10 awg.

I wouldn't bother with this. When was the last time you heard of someone blowing the fuses on their factory wiring after installing an aftermarket head unit, aside from goobers screwing up the wiring? When's the last time you heard of the factory wiring getting hot when playing music?

All of the aftermarket stereo manufacturers lie about their wattage ratings.

Looking at the PDF manual for that unit, it claims maximum power output of 100W x 4, and 45W RMS x 4 (180W). Meanwhile, it lists rated current consumption as 10A. Even if we were being generous and assumed 14.5V operating voltage, that's only 145W, and that's powering the entire unit, not just the amplifier section. So right off the bat, they're conjuring up 35W of specified power out of nowhere.

According to the '94 EWD, the radio is powered by the 10A Dome circuit (blue/yellow wire), the 15A Cig circuit (gray wire), and the 15A Tail circuit (presumably only for dimming).

IMO you'll be fine with the stock wiring unless you max out the volume while playing a pure sinewave and try to light a cigarette simultaneously.

 

[cruxarche]

I wouldn't bother with this. When was the last time you heard of someone blowing the fuses on their factory wiring after installing an aftermarket head unit, aside from goobers screwing up the wiring? When's the last time you heard of the factory wiring getting hot when playing music?

All of the aftermarket stereo manufacturers lie about their wattage ratings.

Looking at the PDF manual for that unit, it claims maximum power output of 100W x 4, and 45W RMS x 4 (180W). Meanwhile, it lists rated current consumption as 10A. Even if we were being generous and assumed 14.5V operating voltage, that's only 145W, and that's powering the entire unit, not just the amplifier section. So right off the bat, they're conjuring up 35W of specified power out of nowhere.

According to the '94 EWD, the radio is powered by the 10A Dome circuit (blue/yellow wire), the 15A Cig circuit (gray wire), and the 15A Tail circuit (presumably only for dimming).

IMO you'll be fine with the stock wiring unless you max out the volume while playing a pure sinewave and try to light a cigarette simultaneously.

I saw that 10 amp rating as well. But the manual actually says to connect to the battery directly and use a 15amp fuse. It says current will actually exceed 15 amps at high volumes. There are some YouTube videos showing output tests on this unit and it makes a surprising amount if power, drawing like in the hi 20’s (amps). So just to be safe I’m going to run the 10awg.

 

[gummycarbs]

I saw that 10 amp rating as well. But the manual actually says to connect to the battery directly and use a 15amp fuse. It says current will actually exceed 15 amps at high volumes. There are some YouTube videos showing output tests on this unit and it makes a surprising amount if power, drawing like in the hi 20’s (amps). So just to be safe I’m going to run the 10awg.

It actually says "When the amperage rating of the fuse used on your car is 10 A, make the power connection to the battery directly to avoid short circuits." It's not clear to me which circuit they're referring to. I was under the impression that head units pull their primary power from the accessory circuit, which would be 15A in this case. Does this unit pull most of its power from the always-on circuit? Does it draw from both?

As you say, they do claim, "During full-power operation, a current of more than 15 A will run through the system." If that's actually the case, then I have no idea why the rated current consumption is 10A.

The Youtube test I'm seeing claims to have pulled 24.7 amps, which blew a 15 amp fuse. Presumably, that fuse is the one on the back of the head unit. Putting a larger fuse in the head unit is not going to be good it. Also, that was running a 1kHz sine wave. That doesn't reflect any realistic usage.

 

[cruxarche]

It actually says "When the amperage rating of the fuse used on your car is 10 A, make the power connection to the battery directly to avoid short circuits." It's not clear to me which circuit they're referring to. I was under the impression that head units pull their primary power from the accessory circuit, which would be 15A in this case. Does this unit pull most of its power from the always-on circuit? Does it draw from both?

As you say, they do claim, "During full-power operation, a current of more than 15 A will run through the system." If that's actually the case, then I have no idea why the rated current consumption is 10A.

The Youtube test I'm seeing claims to have pulled 24.7 amps, which blew a 15 amp fuse. Presumably, that fuse is the one on the back of the head unit. Putting a larger fuse in the head unit is not going to be good it. Also, that was running a 1kHz sine wave. That doesn't reflect any realistic usage.

Sony documentation is terrible. Sonic electronics did a test of the previous/similar radio rated at 40rms per channel and it pulled 42. So I’m pretty convinced the current will be there. Running new wire will give me piece of mind and I‘m convinced ill be convinced it will make it sound better!

Interestingly that previous model had a separate fused connector for the yellow/black wires. Now Sony has reverted to a standard harness and has all this garbage language telling you to custom wire it yourself.

 

[Pascoscout]

It actually says "When the amperage rating of the fuse used on your car is 10 A, make the power connection to the battery directly to avoid short circuits." It's not clear to me which circuit they're referring to. I was under the impression that head units pull their primary power from the accessory circuit, which would be 15A in this case. Does this unit pull most of its power from the always-on circuit? Does it draw from both?

Can't speak to this one specifically but older head units all pulled from the accessory side. Most didn't even have a constant source. Then along came clocks, settings and functions that needed to be saved so they added the constant on source. It was usually small draw so it had a small wire. I've noticed over time that the constant source wires have gotten larger in AWG so I assume they have been switching more and more of the operating power to that side and just using the switched side as a relay to turn the unit on. I could see this being the case with a built in amp, no reason for it to be powered when the unit it off so it could just start up when the accessory comes on.

If you want to not worry about it add an external amplifier and don't use the on board amp in the head unit .

 

[cruxarche]

Can't speak to this one specifically but older head units all pulled from the accessory side. Most didn't even have a constant source. Then along came clocks, settings and functions that needed to be saved so they added the constant on source. It was usually small draw so it had a small wire. I've noticed over time that the constant source wires have gotten larger in AWG so I assume they have been switching more and more of the operating power to that side and just using the switched side as a relay to turn the unit on. I could see this being the case with a built in amp, no reason for it to be powered when the unit it off so it could just start up when the accessory comes on.

If you want to not worry about it add an external amplifier and don't use the on board amp in the head unit .

The terminology in the manual is a bit awkward— but it does say to supply the yellow (constant) lead with a 15 amp line Direct from battery. As far as a separate amp set up, I am experimenting with the built in for now. I have a feeling it will be great and I already have a ham radio under my drivers seat!

 

[Overlanderson]

im doing the head unit swap as well. im having an issue in my 97 when i plug the 2 OEM connectors in and power on the HU itll work for a few seconds, then ill hear a high pitch squeak then pop as the 10a fuse blows. this only happens when i have the 4 wire OEM connector hooked up. im not 100% sure but im thinking that may be the factory amp connector?

after reading some earlier posts i had a question on if the factory amp is removed could you still untilize the wiring to the tweeters? i replaced the OEM ones by modding the bracket the old speaker was in.