Builds Live in Texas, drive a pickup: HDJ79 single cab build (1 Viewer)

[John Young]

You could get a little funky.

I've often thought it would be nice to have better headlights for my 70 series stuff. My only question is durability. I'm really not in love with the old headlights.

 

[bottombracket]

This is what I’m looking at:

 

[John Young]

This is what I’m looking at:

View attachment 3111010

Very nice. Wish that was an option for me. Mine are the pre-2000 with the separate turn indicators which are a bear to keep decent.

 

[coldtaco]

you can use these in your stock lights, I didn't know if you were doing the wide nose front or narrow nose front. those of us with narrow nose can use these also. these have a feature so that you can correctly orient them.

Shopping

www.headlightrevolution.com

 

[coldtaco]

here's the Holley 7"

Shopping

www.headlightrevolution.com

 

[John Young]

you can use these in your stock lights, I didn't know if you were doing the wide nose front or narrow nose front. those of us with narrow nose can use these also. these have a feature so that you can correctly orient them.

Shopping

www.headlightrevolution.com

Really, CT? I don't see any narrow nose 70s on their pages. I'd really love to have the option.

 

[coldtaco]

Really, CT? I don't see any narrow nose 70s on their pages. I'd really love to have the option.

That's because we don't have any factory sold here in the US These bulbs work for H4 bulbs and all the other bulb types. the base rotates so you can set the bulb correctly.
The Holley option is also a good option for us. If you look at the depth size of all of the 7" round LED lights they are really deep so would most likely not fit in our trucks, at least not one one side. I know on my Ute the right side where the washer fluid reservoir is I have limited space.

 

[John Young]

That's because we don't have any factory sold here in the US These bulbs work for H4 bulbs and all the other bulb types. the base rotates so you can set the bulb correctly.
The Holley option is also a good option for us. If you look at the depth size of all of the 7" round LED lights they are really deep so would most likely not fit in our trucks, at least not one one side. I know on my Ute the right side where the washer fluid reservoir is I have limited space.

Thanks CT. I will look more closely at my 1996 pickup tomorrow and see what I have to work with.

 

[bottombracket]

The 74 needs ‘em for sure. Are they 24V compatible?

 

[coldtaco]

I believe so, most, if not all LED’s have a range up to like 34 V .

 

[jomelo]

Lots of good options, thank you hive mind.

The IPOR looks stout AF but is out of stock. Slee is in stock and reasonably priced. It looks like an option thst would be bolt up, just re-drill the holes for the crossmember in the appropriate locations. Looks like I could fit the nuts onto the bottom of the transmission and not even have to re-drill any mounting holes in the frame. Would require some calisthenics to drop the transmission, but that would be the fastest option.

Sectioning the crossmember and rewelding mounts to frame is cleanest and sexiest but I have to draw the line somewhere.

The hardest part is this project comes into the homestretch is deciding how far to take everything… Spend money on bomber suspension? Or a thousand bucks on Aussie LED headlights? Upgrade to power windows? So many options, and all are good.

Slee is looking good.

View attachment 3110893

I say spend some money on nice suspension. The last thing you want is a slick looking truck that rides like the Flintstones car.

Those PVS headlights look slick. I think I’m just going to run the stock setup in mine. I have never had good success with aftermarket headlights. I definitely thought a bit about those PVS lights though.

I say pass on the power windows too.

 

[janyyc]

Re: LED headlights for post-2007 i.e. wide nosed, I have these bookmarked: https://m.facebook.com/579539442101843/
Not a huge fan of the PVS look and their annoying branding everywhere and I remember @Tapage said the PVS were terrible to aim. He switched to the above ones.
Funnily enough, even though it’s an easy switch on my 2000 78 to some LED’s I like the analog look and don’t drive at night so I have the halogen upgraded H4’s.

 

[coldtaco]

Re: LED headlights for post-2007 i.e. wide nosed, I have these bookmarked: https://m.facebook.com/579539442101843/
Not a huge fan of the PVS look and their annoying branding everywhere and I remember @Tapage said the PVS were terrible to aim. He switched to the above ones.
Funnily enough, even though it’s an easy switch on my 2000 78 to some LED’s I like the analog look and don’t drive at night so I have the halogen upgraded H4’s.

that's where the Holley retro lights come in as a good option, you can get them in yellow for all you euro fans, incadecent color, and more white/5600 color if I remember correctly. or just replace the bulbs and keep the housing you like

 

[Tapage]

Re: LED headlights for post-2007 i.e. wide nosed, I have these bookmarked: https://m.facebook.com/579539442101843/
Not a huge fan of the PVS look and their annoying branding everywhere and I remember @Tapage said the PVS were terrible to aim. He switched to the above ones.
Funnily enough, even though it’s an easy switch on my 2000 78 to some LED’s I like the analog look and don’t drive at night so I have the halogen upgraded H4’s.

This is what I’m looking at:

View attachment 3111010

Re: LED headlights for post-2007 i.e. wide nosed, I have these bookmarked: https://m.facebook.com/579539442101843/
Not a huge fan of the PVS look and their annoying branding everywhere and I remember @Tapage said the PVS were terrible to aim. He switched to the above ones.
Funnily enough, even though it’s an easy switch on my 2000 78 to some LED’s I like the analog look and don’t drive at night so I have the halogen upgraded H4’s.

I did not like the PVS lights and therefore I remove them .. I replace with Miks

Micks Projector Retrofits

We convert your boring halogen headlights to projector LED or HID headlights and can add Switchback... Newcastle, NSW, Australia 2280

www.facebook.com

Build to last and while not perfect .. I appreciate the hole customer service and support that PVS have, that does not mean they are better to deal than Mick, the hole webpage make the transaction easier .. they have more staff to talk to .. but again, that dies not translate in better customer service if something goes wrong.

in the case of Mick .. you can talk to him .. and again while not perfect, his product it's top notch ..

I literally have both sets on hands side to side and compare the quality .. if you as my opinion again Micks ..

PVS have a lot of other great products ..

 

[roma042987]

This is what I’m looking at:

View attachment 3111010

Galen these are pretty slick. If you end up ordering a set give me a heads up as I may piggyback.

 

[dogfishlake]

My 2 cents is stop and make a list of your perfect truck in your mind. Then add in realism as far as cost goes. From there, blast off and finish without doubt. On my 60 I did that and it worked well. I did go back and add items I messed up on ( like better seats) but it pretty much worked. It's like building a spec race car. Build to a set of rules (in this case you make them ahead of time) and kick ass from there. I'm a total fart in a whirlwind without a set of rules.

I do think that in your rule making you should consider the best shocks you can afford regardless of the rest of the suspension and the best seats you can afford.

That way your truck will handle like a race car and you will be comfortable and can afford to act like a little kid.

 

[bottombracket]

@dogfishlake I hear you. I’ll have more to say in a couple of weeks about design and planning for this build.

I found a local motorcycle shop that offers vapor blasting/vapor honing in Austin for $90 an hour. I packed up the previously cleaned intake, the rear timing belt upper cover, and the valve cover to get all shined up. Let’s see what magic this guy can work.

 

[bottombracket]

I have also got my 1/2” supply and 3/8” return fuel line tubing as well as some super sexxxxy Notchead line clamps, and a bender and straightener set. All on the good advice of @c2dfj45 who never leads one astray.

Dang those clamps are nice.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

May I ask what material that is? Looks like coiled copper, or copper alloy.

I ask because I used a soft material for my fuel lines long ago (aluminum in my case) and they didn't last long before sand/grit got inbetween the clamps and the line, which caused pinhole leaks. I had to switch out for stainless, which sucks to work with, but doesn't wear through.

 

[bottombracket]

@GLTHFJ60 they are Nicopp. Here’s to hoping they don’t pinhole. I haven’t heard of that before.