tire question (1 Viewer)

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Good news, I have found and purchased an 80.
I am ordering up some parts.
I have another question about tire size.
I am going with an OME 2" lift. I am having some confusion around which size tires. I do not want to re-gear. I initially thought I would go with 285/70/17 (32.8). When I started having a look around it got me wondering about 285/75/17 (33.8) . I know they will fit. How much will a 285/75/17 affect road manners and the already very slow land tank? I ask b/c it seems from my research that a regear is recommended when wanting to run tires over 33".
Thanks
 
You'll find quite a few people on this forum who say that they're fine running 35's with stock gearing. Seems to depend a lot on your altitude and local grades.

Also, don't take tire labeled sizes as gospel. There's huge variance in the actual overall height between various brands of tires with the same numbers printed on the sidewall.

Dumb question: do you have 17" rims already?
 
I’ve had mine now for over 15 yrs, running the orig size tires for a couple of years, and then switching to 33s’, and then to 35s. Have the 2.5” OME lift with a 1” body lift. Actually going back this week to 285/85/16 on my factory alloys. I have the Toyota steelies which are 38 lbs, and the Toyo Open Country 35s’ are 68 lbs. The 33s’ were also Toyo Open Country as are my 285s. With the 35s it is a huge amount of rotating mass, and with 0 degrees of castor it makes it a chore to keep it straight. I’ve gotten used to it, but it keeps you busy. As you progressively go up in size/mass the already low powered engine feels worse. The difference from the stk size to 33s was slight, but going to 35s was much more noticeable. Also, your mileage will suffer more the bigger the tire. Presently, with the 35s, I avg about 22L/100 kms (10.7 mpg). On stk tires I was anywhere from 14-18L/100 kms depending whether it was summer or winter. In the BC end I would say a 33” tire is the best overall option in terms of wheeling, city driving, handling, and fuel economy. When wheeling my buddies on 33s could go pretty much anywhere I could go on 35s, albeit with some more difficulty in some situations. Yes, 35s are better then 33s, just like 37s are better then 35s for wheeling, but it all comes with a price. Only you know what price you’re willing to pay.
 
I ran 33' and stock gearing for around 3 years. Its was fine for flatland work. Hauling trailers, camping, running the interstates all was fine.
Then I started hauling our camping rig in the mountains of N.GA and SC and E.TN.
The stock gears on 33's with a camping rig almost got us flattened by a dump truck in SE.TN as I was pulling out on an up hill intersection into an up hill section of two lane.
I re-geared to 4:88 this spring and the truck LEAPs off the line, even with the camping rig on the back.
 
I just made the jump from 33’s to 35’s. I felt 33’s were fine on stock stuff. The 35’s do impact acceleration and fuel economy both of which I can live with. The bigger impact to me was braking. I’ve already found situations were the braking is inadequate. My wife won’t even drive the truck now because of it. Will likely be spending money to upgrade the brakes before I look at gears.
 
You'll find quite a few people on this forum who say that they're fine running 35's with stock gearing. Seems to depend a lot on your altitude and local grades.

Also, don't take tire labeled sizes as gospel. There's huge variance in the actual overall height between various brands of tires with the same numbers printed on the sidewall.

Dumb question: do you have 17" rims already?
I am switching to 17's so I can run powerstop big brake kit.
Yes, I do know that every brand's tire size varies.
 
On my wife’s 95 I have the lift at 2.5 or so Oldman emu, and had a 295 on 16 inch rim, I just switched out to bfg 285 75 on 17, it was taller and skimmer than the 295s on 16s. Power wise it feels about the same, wife complains it’s slow but told her it is a land cruiser sorry you can’t zip around and wreck into s***. She has learned to live with it. In perfect world I will re gear it to 488s. I live in Colorado at high altitude
8388284C-BECA-458F-9EAE-FB4335992B30.jpeg
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FWIW.... I opted to go with a 2.5 OME lift and 33" Mickey Thompson Baja Boss Tires. Been really happy with the combination. Will probably re-gear at some point, but for now, it runs and drives great.

New Tires and Rims.jpg
 
I
I just made the jump from 33’s to 35’s. I felt 33’s were fine on stock stuff. The 35’s do impact acceleration and fuel economy both of which I can live with. The bigger impact to me was braking. I’ve already found situations were the braking is inadequate. My wife won’t even drive the truck now because of it. Will likely be spending money to upgrade the brakes before I look at gears.
think you need to adjust your rear proportioning valve with a lift. Did you lift the rig after switching to 35s?
I have no problem stopping w/ 37s and i have a 3FE and drum brakes...something is not working correctly...
 
I run 35's with stock gears and it's "OK" in Colorado. Lots of time spent wailing on it in 2nd gear, but it keeps up with traffic reasonably well. I'd say go with the bigger 285/75r17 size (assuming you've already got 17" wheels). If you're still on the stock 16's, then 285/75, 255/85 or 295/75r16 are all good choices. You're not going to feel much difference between a 33 and a 34 IMO.
 
Mine came from the PO with 285x75x16's on the 2" OME lift...a little skinny and tucked in my opinion, so I bumped up to the 315x75x16 on the stock 8" wheels and couldn't be happier. That said, I'm on a 4.56 re-gear too from the PO, so I can't say how it did on stock gears. Pretty anemic in any condition really, but drivability and braking is perfectly fine on mine as long as you give a little lead time on lane choices/merging. All that said, I'm coming from a 600 whp Audi v8tt, so everything is going to feel like a slug. I can cruise 75+ on the highway with a little drag on the hills, but again, couldn't be happier!

 
285/70/R17
 
I know several wheelers that run stock gears with 37s. Works fine if you learn how to use that lever between the seats. The 1fz is not afraid of running 3000-4000+ rpm.
 
With all do respect
If you’re running anything more then fire roads 37 are not fine with stock gear !!

Having run 35s 37s and now 39s I speak from experience 😉

Cheers
 
With all do respect
If you’re running anything more then fire roads 37 are not fine with stock gear !!

Having run 35s 37s and now 39s I speak from experience 😉

Cheers
Yea, OK, whatever. It's already being done dude.
 
I know several wheelers that run stock gears with 37s. Works fine if you learn how to use that lever between the seats. The 1fz is not afraid of running 3000-4000+ rpm.
When you are running the 3000-4000 RPM, do you see an increase in oil consumption?

When I am running 3400 RPM consistently (about 85 MPH interstate driving) mine uses about 1 qt of oil in 200 miles. I currently have 332K miles on the truck and it has 187K on it since the head gasket and head was rebuilt. Probably due for valve seals, but is it keeping the oil on top of the head enough that the PCV system is sucking the oil?
 

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