Transfer Case Skid buying question (1 Viewer)

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I want to build my truck relatively light for my light to moderate trial off-roading (no steel bumpers & only sliders this time).
Read various of threads but still have some question for you guys... :(

It seems like the factory front skid cover is somewhat satisfactory for my need at the moment, however, the transfer case area seems very vulnerable for any type of impact or dragging while off-roading.
My choice would be the Bud Built or Victory 4x4 (if you have any other choices, then please share).
Victory 4x4 seems like providing more protection area compare to the Bud Built and somewhat cheaper with free shipping (especially with an Aluminum option).
Not sure you can still keep the factory front/mid covers w/ Victory 4x4 skid.
It looks like both mounted directly onto the frame and not onto the skid itself like ARB skid.

Also, not sure whether I should go with 1/4" 1Alminium or stick with 2x the weight of 3/16" steel.
Please help me decide on my next Transfer Case Skid purchase... any help would be greatly appreciated!




VICTORY 4X4
V200SD-TRN_2.jpg



BUD BUILT
1770464609.jpg
 
I'm a huge Budbuilt fan, and am very biased. I'd go Budbuilt on the skid (or skids)

I own the Budbuilt (actually two sets, one aluminum and one stainless) and the Budbuilt has the benefit of adding an additional strong steel crossmember, it is NOT mounted to the transfer case. Any strikes are transmitted to the steel ladder frame of the car, through both the factory crossmember and the new Budbuilt steel crossmember. ...not the fragile transfer case aluminum case.

I haven't seen the Victory mounting arrangement, so I don't have hands on knowledge. The photo you posted above of the Victory looks like it is just cantilevered out past the factory cross member, but again, I haven't had my hands on one.

I would look at any mounting carefully, to make sure it doesn't mount to the transfer case, and has a sturdy mounting option.

You mention the ARB, it mounts directly to the transfer case. Not a great design in my mind (or at least for how I use my rig). Here's a pic of the ARB borrowed from the 'net:
1662472191670.png

As you
 
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I haven't seen the Victory mounting arrangement, so can't comment on it, but I own the Budbuilt (actually two sets, one aluminum and one stainless) and the Budbuilt has the benefit of adding an additional strong steel crossmember, it is NOT mounted to the transfer case. Any strikes are transmitted to the steel ladder frame of the car, through both the factory crossmember and the new Budbuilt steel crossmember. ...not the fragile transfer case aluminum case.

The photo above of the Victory looks like it is just cantilevered out past the factory cross member, but again, I haven't had my hands on one.

I would look at any mounting carefully, to make sure it doesn't mount to the transfer case, and has a sturdy mounting option.

I seem to recall the ARB, for example, mounting directly to the transfer case. Not a great design in my mind (or at least for how I use my rig).

Yep, here's a pic of the ARB borrowed from the 'net:
View attachment 3107346

I’ll disclaim that I have these skids, but I’m not precious about them. They were the right price at the time.

A lot of noise is made about this design but I do think it’s over blown. Have you ever heard of anyone taking damage this way? ARB has sold a bazillion of these globally.


For OP, for a mostly highway cruiser, the factory transfer case skid is actually quite stout - And it’s also bolted directly to the transfer case.
 
Asfir 4x4 sells another option. Aluminum with a crossbar from frame to frame.
 
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Fair enough, I don't have any counter argument - ARB has definitely sold a lot more than the other vendors.

I just know with the boulder strewn trails we have in Vermont, having the most robust protection I can find is a good choice for me. I can remember vividly the times when I've needed all the protection. The transfer case skid has evidence of being impacted and dragged. One time in particular, I recall following a trail leader down a river bed with rocks underwater, and not being able to see the large rocks I was impacting. I was very happy that the vital parts of my underbody were well protected.

My old aluminum one:
8B9232C9-D029-4B29-B134-2941856C6925.jpeg
 
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Thank you guys... lots of good info here.
I'm leaning toward to either Bud Built or go full-blown Asfir that @grinchy mentioned...
For Asfir 4x4, anyone knows if it fits with 14 LX570?
The website stated that Diesel and not gasoline model.
 
Thank you guys... lots of good info here.
I'm leaning toward to either Bud Built or go full-blown Asfir that @grinchy mentioned...
For Asfir 4x4, anyone knows if it fits with 14 LX570?
The website stated that Diesel and not gasoline model.
I have the asfir transfer case skid in a hybrid solution.
Budbuilt front, engine, Total Chaos center, Asfir TC, Rival Gas tank.

The Asfir fit no problem on my Gen 1. I think the issues might be that the oil access areas are different on the diesel engines. Asfir did do some Petrol/gasoline scans earlier in the year, don't know when/if that product will hit the market.

I tried the full Aluminum skid solution, but ended up destroying a front skid (total chaos). I replaced with the steel budbuilt skids for that area (front/engine).

A full budbuilt solution worth it in my opinion. @CharlieS has the Aluminum skids posted up for sale if I recall . . .
 
Don't have a position on skids.

As this is discussing the LX - thinking outside of the box, there is prodigious lift available with AHC as an alternative to create more clearance than to accept grinding over obstacles. With larger tires and sensor lift, can get 6"+ of lift - 2" tires, 3" AHC high, 1.5" sensor lift.

Until you want to tackle even bigger boulders.
 
@grinchy - excellent point... might have to wait for Asfir to come out with an updated version.

@TeCKis300 - I absolutely love your KISS approach... recently, I made a mistake and ended up with 285/70/17... should have gone with at least 34" or even 35"
 
Don't have a position on skids.

As this is discussing the LX - thinking outside of the box, there is prodigious lift available with AHC as an alternative to create more clearance than to accept grinding over obstacles. With larger tires and sensor lift, can get 6"+ of lift - 2" tires, 3" AHC high, 1.5" sensor lift.

Until you want to tackle even bigger boulders.
I hear you, but I honestly believe there are limits to the lift only approach. Unless you know you're never going on trails that will test that philosophy or are always willing to turn around and retrace your steps when you meet the obstacle that will test it.
 
I hear you, but I honestly believe there are limits to the lift only approach. Unless you know you're never going on trails that will test that philosophy or are always willing to turn around and retrace your steps when you meet the obstacle that will test it.

I hear ya. Perhaps the strategy only keeps things out of trouble for a limited time as the progression is surely to push into bigger and more difficult trails.

My buddies mostly on 33 and 35s are grinding over rocks and train tracks on their frames and sliders, and taking out gallons of capacity because of giant dents in their fuel tanks. They're following the same progression talking themselves down the path of more underarmor and bumper armor. Sure they'll get more protection, but the other reality with armor is further compromises to ride-heights and bigger hits with the additional static and dynamic weights.

Then they're taking notes that my underbody is almost clean. Sure, I have the odd scratch, nick, and even tweak to my Slee slider. We're on the same trails and trips. Surely there's a balance of creating more clearance vs armoring up. IMO, large 34s or 35s should come before more armor (except for sliders). Bigger tire sizes before more suspension lift, as there's things such as axle clearance that can only be improved by tire sizes. For the LX, take advantage of the sensor lift.

Just saying that there are things that can be done before considering under-armor.
 
I would look at any mounting carefully, to make sure it doesn't mount to the transfer case, and has a sturdy mounting option.

You mention the ARB, it mounts directly to the transfer case. Not a great design in my mind (or at least for how I use my rig). Here's a pic of the ARB borrowed from the 'net:

FYI That condition appears to be only for 2015 and older. The recent model ARB has full protection without mounting on the transfercase.
 
I want to build my truck relatively light for my light to moderate trial off-roading (no steel bumpers & only sliders this time).
Read various of threads but still have some question for you guys... :(

It seems like the factory front skid cover is somewhat satisfactory for my need at the moment, however, the transfer case area seems very vulnerable for any type of impact or dragging while off-roading.
My choice would be the Bud Built or Victory 4x4 (if you have any other choices, then please share).
Victory 4x4 seems like providing more protection area compare to the Bud Built and somewhat cheaper with free shipping (especially with an Aluminum option).
Not sure you can still keep the factory front/mid covers w/ Victory 4x4 skid.
It looks like both mounted directly onto the frame and not onto the skid itself like ARB skid.

Also, not sure whether I should go with 1/4" 1Alminium or stick with 2x the weight of 3/16" steel.
Please help me decide on my next Transfer Case Skid purchase... any help would be greatly appreciated!




VICTORY 4X4
View attachment 3107274


BUD BUILT
View attachment 3107283
I have the victory transfer skid and the mounting bolts go through the two circular holes in the picture. They do not mount to just the crossmember. I have the aluminum version and am happy with them but would agree the bud built are the more robust option. I think they also have more steps in installing and uninstalling vs the victory. I need basic lighter weight protection and don’t push my rig very hard for my use case.
 
I have the victory transfer skid and the mounting bolts go through the two circular holes in the picture. They do not mount to just the crossmember. I have the aluminum version and am happy with them but would agree the bud built are the more robust option. I think they also have more steps in installing and uninstalling vs the victory. I need basic lighter weight protection and don’t push my rig very hard for my use case.
Thanks for sharing... do you have to remove the factory skid in order to install Victory Transfer Case Skid?
 
Thanks for sharing... do you have to remove the factory skid in order to install Victory Transfer Case Skid?
Yes you do. I did the install in my garage using ramps. Laid on my back and had the skids on my knees. Not the easiest but doable once a year to get them off for maintenance items.
 

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