Builds Live in Texas, drive a pickup: HDJ79 single cab build (1 Viewer)

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Here you go man, think there is a Gladiator under this hot mess … you can do better!

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Hello,

You could squeeze a small crane in the space between the cab and the tray.

Just a suggestion...






Juan
 
Hello,

You could squeeze a small crane in the space between the cab and the tray.

Just a suggestion...






Juan
For hauling beer kegs. Like what Migs used to have on her 40. @bottombracket remember?
 
I do. I like this plan.
 
Hello,

Many moons ago, a company located near where I used to work had a 75 Series pick-up/ute with a crane, just like I described above, behind the cab.

I can search my files to see if I still have a photo of it.





Juan

Edit: I found some. Low quality cell phone photos.

750-kg / 1650 lb crane. As you can see, the brand is Ferrari. Odd.

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Last edited:
Hello,

Many moons ago, a company located near where I used to work had a 75 Series pick-up/ute with a crane, just like I described above, behind the cab.

I can search my files to see if I still have a photo of it.





Juan

Edit: I found some. Low quality cell phone photos.

750-kg / 1650 lb crane. As you can see, the brand is Ferrari. Odd.

View attachment 3090738

View attachment 3090740

View attachment 3090741
Ferrari cranes , agricultural tractors and other industrial machinery are a common sight in Europe
 
All right, I couldn’t find any cranes, so after a long hiatus, it’s time to get back to building this truck.

Steering column woes:

The previous adapter plate I built moved the steering wheel back to a longitudinally centered position, but the plastic clamshell would not fit. Fark.

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I picked up a new BROWN dash from Partsouq while drunkenly shopping, and had it powder coated gray to match. After removing the adapter plate, it looks like the steering column really only needed to move about three eights of an inch to the left to be centered in the dash opening, not the 7/8” I had moved it.

I drilled some new holes and test fit it- it is darn close to centered and the clamshell fits. The steering column is oriented just ever so slightly towards the passenger side, but the column is bolted in, the dash is bolted in, and I suppose I will just have to learn to live with it.

@davegonz sagely says, “quit the analysis paralysis and get moving…and as usual Dave is absolutely right. Time to build this thing in earnest.

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Fun things are happening, folks. I have enlisted the help of @Fern1109 who has whisked the 79 away to a Secret Location. Progress is being made. Updates forthcoming.
 
Ok, tech time.

I have been thinking about the transmission crossmember. I was really unhappy with my solution (drilling eccentric holes) and was wondering if there was a different way to do the crossmember that didn’t involve a ton of fabrication. I picked up a VDJ79 crossmember and OEM motor mounts from Megazip. Here it is marked up for length. It is obviously too wide, but I think I can put the mounts on the outside of the frame, which should be able to fit modified drill holes on the outside of the crossmember. I’m thinking I can probably drill and sleeve the frame and run long bolts top to bottom through the frame and through the crossmember. I’ve seen others do this when converting an 80 series from automatic to manual.

@AlbertoSD mentioned that the Slee belly skid plate can be used as a transmission too. I’ll look into that but I kind of like this VDJ crossmember idea.

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The crossmember is quite wide. Longer than an obstinate corgi for sure.

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I would section that to fit your frame correctly 😉
 
OK, so first, I would go with @tucker74 's idea if there is a plug and play. Second is @Broski 's call. cut the top and bottom at different points to stagger that joint (removing the same total amount) and just weld it back together. It will be strong as can be.
 
Lots of good options, thank you hive mind.

The IPOR looks stout AF but is out of stock. Slee is in stock and reasonably priced. It looks like an option thst would be bolt up, just re-drill the holes for the crossmember in the appropriate locations. Looks like I could fit the nuts onto the bottom of the transmission and not even have to re-drill any mounting holes in the frame. Would require some calisthenics to drop the transmission, but that would be the fastest option.

Sectioning the crossmember and rewelding mounts to frame is cleanest and sexiest but I have to draw the line somewhere.

The hardest part is this project comes into the homestretch is deciding how far to take everything… Spend money on bomber suspension? Or a thousand bucks on Aussie LED headlights? Upgrade to power windows? So many options, and all are good.

Slee is looking good.

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Lots of good options, thank you hive mind.

The IPOR looks stout AF but is out of stock. Slee is in stock and reasonably priced. It looks like an option thst would be bolt up, just re-drill the holes for the crossmember in the appropriate locations. Looks like I could fit the nuts onto the bottom of the transmission and not even have to re-drill any mounting holes in the frame. Would require some calisthenics to drop the transmission, but that would be the fastest option.

Sectioning the crossmember and rewelding mounts to frame is cleanest and sexiest but I have to draw the line somewhere.

The hardest part is this project comes into the homestretch is deciding how far to take everything… Spend money on bomber suspension? Or a thousand bucks on Aussie LED headlights? Upgrade to power windows? So many options, and all are good.

Slee is looking good.

View attachment 3110893
Holley makes a 7” round LED headlight replacement for old vehicles, they come in 3 different colors. $399 for a pair. They are short enough to fit most old cars, unlike all the other funky looking LED. Thinking of going this route,
 
@coldtaco unforrunately I have the new style headlights.

I’m really excited to try the Holleys if I quad headlight convert my new 80. Less futuristic look.
 

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