Chassis options for coating? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter PanhandleFJ
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This is what i did.
Post in thread 'The Sandwich' The Sandwich - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/the-sandwich.1097944/post-12335319
Post in thread 'The Sandwich' The Sandwich - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/the-sandwich.1097944/post-12335319
Not enough apparently
- Thread starter
- #24
That lasted 30 years! My chassis seems solid. Minor rust. Maybe power wash, wire wheel, and then paint. Or spray the POR.
If you have the frame stripped down then I'd recommend paying someone to sand blast the whole thing. Then bring it home and do the POR base coat and POR top coats and it should last for a long time...and be quite a bit more durable than powder coating.
LazarusTaxa
SILVER Star
I got mine sandblasted and powder coated for like $6-800. Plenty of people powder coat frames and have no complaints. Or, maybe I should say, it seems there are less people complaining about the durability of powder coating than there are of POR-15.
- Thread starter
- #27
ok sounds good.
Ok, I might go that route, was going to keep it home and not have to haul it somewhere.
Powdercoat is really only for hot rods, show vehicles, and parts that are bolt on. If any powdercoating gets chipped or scratched, corrosives work in underneath the powdercoat and cause rust to spread quickly. Not a good option unless it's a show vehicle only maybe.
LazarusTaxa
SILVER Star
I'm really not sure that's true.. plenty of LC resto companies powder coat frames.
Also, I do not see why chipped powder coat would be any more likely to let moisture under the rest of the coating than POR or any other coating.
The only drawback for me is that if you do scratch it, it's not as easy to blend touch up paint.
I talked to a buddy who was restoring an old suburban. He used por15 and was saying that it doesnt really work as well unless you can get your frame spotless first. He had wire brush and take his frame down to bare metal then used all of the por15 products and it worked well.
There is a product from eastwood that i was thinking about trying out on mine. It doesnt require as much prep. Its called eastwood rust encapsulator platinum metallic silver. evidently you can brush it on after cleaning up the rust flake. It dries silver in color so you can cover it with the black top coat easier to ensure proper coverage. They have spray cans with hoses onthem to spray the inner frame rails too.
Just another option if you arent really trying to send the frame off somewhere
There is a product from eastwood that i was thinking about trying out on mine. It doesnt require as much prep. Its called eastwood rust encapsulator platinum metallic silver. evidently you can brush it on after cleaning up the rust flake. It dries silver in color so you can cover it with the black top coat easier to ensure proper coverage. They have spray cans with hoses onthem to spray the inner frame rails too.
Just another option if you arent really trying to send the frame off somewhere
Both POR15 and powder coating require proper surface prep in order to have a good outcome. Most of the people who have problems with POR15 did little or no prep and just painted it on thinking it would magically turn rust into solid metal. If you start with a nice sandblasted surface and a put the POR 15 on and then put the POR 15 top coat on (POR 15 on its own is not UV resistant) then it will hold up for a long time and be very durable.
Powder coating a frame can be a bit tricky because powder coating corners, voids, and hollow spaces can be a challenge. The frame is given an electrostatic charge to attract the powder when it is being applied and things like tight corners can be tricky. If any moisture manages to get onto the bare metal surface after its powder coated the powder coak will falke right off.
Powder coating a frame can be a bit tricky because powder coating corners, voids, and hollow spaces can be a challenge. The frame is given an electrostatic charge to attract the powder when it is being applied and things like tight corners can be tricky. If any moisture manages to get onto the bare metal surface after its powder coated the powder coak will falke right off.
I don't know what reasoning some resto companies have. But I've seen some really bad corrosion occur on parts with powder coat compared to paint.
c2dfj45
Supporting Vendor
I've used 4 or 5 different systems from all the major players.....this is our go-to. It works amazingly well.
Clean the frame with a pressure washer....get off any flaking rust. Frame needs to be clean and dry.
Use Mastercoat Rust Sealer(silver)......brush on 2 good coats.
nomorerust.com
Follow up with their satin black topcoat:
nomorerust.com
Follow their directions for sure. We use a combo of brushes, rollers, foam brushes and usually a sock or rag that we drag thru the frame to help get it everywhere. If we are going over paint or very smooth metal, we'll rough it up with some sandpaper.
Provides and insanely durable surface that looks great. You'll be impressed. And for sure you don't want to get it on you....you'll be wearing it for a while
Clean the frame with a pressure washer....get off any flaking rust. Frame needs to be clean and dry.
Use Mastercoat Rust Sealer(silver)......brush on 2 good coats.
Mastercoat® Ultimate Permanent Rust Sealer SILVER Primer, Original & Sprayable Slim - Mastercoat® & The Master Series Coating Line - No More Rust™
Mastercoat Permanent Rust Sealer is a professional paint over rust application that will stop rust permanently at low prices.
Follow up with their satin black topcoat:
Rust Preventative Paint & Pitting | Chassis Paint | Buy
Based on the three coat polyurethane system, the Master Series Coating Line is one of the largest sellers in the antique automobile restoration hobby. Learn More
Follow their directions for sure. We use a combo of brushes, rollers, foam brushes and usually a sock or rag that we drag thru the frame to help get it everywhere. If we are going over paint or very smooth metal, we'll rough it up with some sandpaper.
Provides and insanely durable surface that looks great. You'll be impressed. And for sure you don't want to get it on you....you'll be wearing it for a while
There is also zero rust. It looks really good and the sheen is very close original.
Old Nick
GOLD Star
I'll add another POR-15 alternative:
An older fellow I know who has restored a number of cars/trucks recommended this to me for frame protection/sealing. I've used it on portions of my frame (the rest will follow this fall), and it's held up very, very nicely.
Large All-In-One Paint Kit - Painting Kit from KBS Coatings
Large Painting Kit. Stop rust with this outstanding all-inclusive frame painting kit. It contains all the KBS products you will need to tackle your next restoration project.
www.kbs-coatings.com
An older fellow I know who has restored a number of cars/trucks recommended this to me for frame protection/sealing. I've used it on portions of my frame (the rest will follow this fall), and it's held up very, very nicely.
I’ll add my support for KBS. I have used it on two frames. Both had been sandblasted and I followed the KBS instructions closely.I'll add another POR-15 alternative:
Large All-In-One Paint Kit - Painting Kit from KBS Coatings
Large Painting Kit. Stop rust with this outstanding all-inclusive frame painting kit. It contains all the KBS products you will need to tackle your next restoration project.www.kbs-coatings.com
An older fellow I know who has restored a number of cars/trucks recommended this to me for frame protection/sealing. I've used it on portions of my frame (the rest will follow this fall), and it's held up very, very nicely.
Overall, I am still very pleased with the outcome several years later.
