fooldall1
Handy Enthusiast
I am chewing up ANY stabilizer kit I install on the front suspension- Anyone have any idea why I might be chewing through those stabilizer links in 3-4 months?
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Hi neighbor. You're what now? Stabilizer kit??I am chewing up ANY stabilizer kit I install on the front suspension- Anyone have any idea why I might be chewing through those stabilizer links in 3-4 months?
Yes, sorry. The links on the Lower control arm and shock base; By chewed up, I mean- after 3-4 months the rubber or whatever other type of rubber in that link (those links, rather) get so destroyed they clink metal-to-metal.The sway bar bushings or what? Pics of what chewing up means?
Sorry, should explain better- The REAR springs lifted the rear about that much and I adjusted the torsion bars to compensate.Your sig states you have a 1.5" lift. Do you have extended end links to match?
Search SAS here? OK, Will do. Any advice to that end?Search SAS. That will fix your problem 100%. I promise
Hi Neighbor! What part of BR do you live?Hi neighbor. You're what now? Stabilizer kit??
Yes, sorry. The links on the Lower control arm and shock base; By chewed up, I mean- after 3-4 months the rubber or whatever other type of rubber in that link (those links, rather) get so destroyed they clink metal-to-metal.
Sorry, should explain better- The REAR springs lifted the rear about that much and I adjusted the torsion bars to compensate.
Damn- did not do this. It makes perfect sense.If it's the rubber bushing in lower part of front stabilizer link, held by one bolt in LCA bracket. Make sure you put vehicle on ground (weight on tires, places vehicle in it's neutral stance) before torquing bolt to 38ft-lbf.
If you torque link lower bolt while wheel(s) hanging due to vehicle on jack-stands. It will turn (load) rubber of bushing in link 20 to 30 degrees, when placed back on ground.
This is same for lower shock bolt also all factory control arms. Torque all in, while vehicle neutral position, or bushing fail prematurely.
I actually used both the DA AND the Moog kit with the same results. Learned a lesson though. I'll pick up a new Moog kit again and use the recommendations from the other posts. Thanks, Ya'll.I have the standard length links with 1.5” lift. I got 2 years out of mine, they were cheap - can’t recall the brand. Make sure you don’t over torque them on the install. I just installed these Moog units. They have poly bushings and are very stout. I expect they’ll last longer, but we’ll see.
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I measured. I actually re-indexed the torsion bars as well as I replaced the LCA and UCAs (myself) since I had to remove the torsion bars to replace the LCAs.When you cranked the front T-Bar adjuster bolts to add lift to the front did you just count the number of bolt turns or did you actually measure front lift height with wheels back on the ground to make sure driver and passenger heights were exactly equal after the adjustment? If ride heights are not equal, the sway bar link bushings will be in constant compression, upper bushing on one side and lower on the opposite side, rather than only intermittantly when wheels are hitting bumps or holes or while cornering. This would accelerate bushing wear.
The more "rake" (front lower than rear) the better. Rate reduce HWY wondering. Wondering is where we must constantly adjust steering wheel. Wondering is also caused be a number of other out of spec components.Damn- did not do this. It makes perfect sense.
Follow up question: I came to understand that a .5" rake was recommended - but, it should NOT have the 1/2 inch rake?
I actually used both the DA AND the Moog kit with the same results. Learned a lesson though. I'll pick up a new Moog kit again and use the recommendations from the other posts. Thanks, Ya'll.