Front crank seal oil leak questions (1 Viewer)

[Streetiz81]

Looking for some guidance on a front crank area leak. I have the crank seal, front cover gasket and intermediate plate gasket. I’ve already done a fair amount of reading on it but the one thing I wasn’t sure about was how far to install the “oil squirter”. Also read that obtaining a service manual would do me some good (obviously) but I just found a 2F service manual and skimmed through the whole thing and didn’t feel like I found everything I wanted to find. Does a Haynes manual perhaps have more detail from a procedural standpoint on doing the job I’m going to do. Read that the side cover, fuel pump, distributor, valve cover, rockers, pushrods and cam all have to come out in order to do the “intermediate plate” gasket. Engine code 2F017611.

 

[rc6340]

I too am in the process of re sealing the timing cover on my f engine. How do I remove the crank seal in the cover ?
Thanks

 

[Silver City Cruiser]

Yes that is correct. The screw-cover is staked at the end of the blade slot to help hold it. The screw tapered area underneath also has sealant on it. I use new updated screws from Toyota that are Torx drive instead if the slotted type. It's just easier to torque them.

 

[Silver City Cruiser]

They can be pretty stuck...use a pry bar and hold the cover on the ground while you or a helper pry it out.

 

[73FJ40]

Can you elaborate on this. Like the orientation of the seal. Is that front to back (like make sure I don’t put it in backwards)? Or is that orientation as far as a particular place on the seal being oriented at a particular position clock-wise?

When you remove yours, install the new one with the same orientation. The cantilevered lip always faces the source of the oil. Many seals have a garter spring around the lip, so that faces the oil.

The main point of the picture was to identify the labrynth, so that wouldn't be pounded out while removing the seal.

 

[Steamer]

The main point of the picture was to identify the labrynth, so that wouldn't be pounded out while removing the seal.

Yup! Like my mistake "HERE" (my first post on mud)

 

[Streetiz81]

Yup! Like my mistake "HERE" (my first post on mud)

Aahhhhh got it! Now I understand. What do you think of this? It appears that the inside diameter bore has some parts cracked off. Think it requires front cover replacement?

 

[Streetiz81]

When you remove yours, install the new one with the same orientation. The cantilevered lip always faces the source of the oil. Many seals have a garter spring around the lip, so that faces the oil.

The main point of the picture was to identify the labrynth, so that wouldn't be pounded out while removing the seal.

Got it. Now I get it! Meant to post the pictures of mine to you but posted it to Steamers response. Think those cracked off parts in the center bore will matter? And what’s up with those scratches on the “labyrinth” part? Lol

 

[Steamer]

The cracked off pieces plus the dings kind of looks like someone tried to drive out that piece like I did. If that’s the case, then there’s a chance the cover has been distorted. I’d check for that if you can. If another cover isn’t too hard to acquire, it might be worth it to change it out.

 

[rc6340]

Thanks a ton for the help guys.

 

[Oregon LC]

Do not use any sealer on the cover. Just install the gasket dry and put the screws in 1 turn.

Do not use FIPG on the timing cover cork gasket? Is this for real?

Maybe that why mine is leaking.

 

[Streetiz81]

I just wanted to thank all the wise advice that I received on this thread. And I wanted everyone to know that so far so good. Replaced the front crank seal, timing gasket, got some new bolts for timing cover and also replace the pushrod cover on the side (which had gasket maker only on it and was failing miserably). So no engine plate. Drove it probably 50 miles. Thanks again everyone!