Migaloo the white Turbo 80 (1 Viewer)

[frankenyota]

Been thinking about a layout for the rear for touring, have a 60lt Engel fridge freezer combo that I have had for years. Bought a Engel fridge slide for that 2nd hand still in the box for a good price but wanted some drawers. After deciding I wanted two stacked drawers I saw someone’s set up where they cut some Titan drawers to make a stacked set up. This is what I wanted.

 

[frankenyota]

So I found a set for $200 which were local to me, sold. They were only 6 months old. Drawers are a cheaper made Titan brand but compared to quality drawers at $2,000 I was pleased with the purchase. I will be cutting them in half anyway.

 

[beatle_bayly]

Maaaaate! I'm really watching this with interest.

Just sold my 80 and the buyer didn't want the near-new Titan drawers so I was going to refit them into my HDJ100. I also have a DIY fridge box+slide I made for the 80 and looking at those pics I reckon cut and stacked Titans would fit perfectly alongside the fridge box in the 100s. I prefer having the 45 Engel at floor height as it's easier for the Mrs to access, and when it's up on the Titan sliding deck the lid fouls the hatch and won't stay open unassisted. You can also stack gear against the fridge box without fouling the slide.

It would be really cool if you could somehow keep the Titan sliding top functionality and fit it as the lower unit to give a slideout table at a useable height. Granted, I also have that stainless table extension shown in your second pic so the slideout is probably redundant.

PS: I hope that's not your Emu Export.........

 

[frankenyota]

I'm going for the stacked drawers for the same reason you mention about fridge access, we travelled Australia about 12 years ago in a HZJ105 which had the GXL doors and full drawer set up. The Mrs couldn't access fridge so l had to get my own beers haha and no l don't drink Emu lager, more of a Carlton Dry man. Pics were saved for reference.
Was trying to keep the fridge slide on the bottom draw to use as a table, l think if l make some brackets for the sides so the top draw clears it showed work. How do you like the stainless extension worth buying?

 

[beatle_bayly]

Stainless extension is fine. Stronger than it looks. But wait till it's on special. I think RRP was $75 and I snagged it for $60, but I see RRP today is $99.
I ran some adhesive draft seal under the shelf where it sits inside on the drawer sides when stored. Stops it sliding fore-aft and reduces rattles.

If you get one, make sure you deburr the edges. They are brutally sharp!

I just had a look at my Titan frame which is now on the bench. Looks simple enough to cut the floor mount cross beams in half, then change the bolts holding the inboard bearings as these keep the two drawer casings together. If piggybacking doesn't work out it's simple enough to bolt the halves back to original side-by-side configuration using the longer bearing bolts

 

[frankenyota]

Here’s a pic of the bottom and the side after I removed the brackets

 

[beatle_bayly]

In case you don't have the instructions....... to get the drawers out, pull the top decks off (remove all tiedown points and any screws around the top edges), then remove the internal bump stops. Be careful; the stainless screws are crap quality shallow-head jobbies and very easy to round out with an allen key.

 

[frankenyota]

Made a start on the drawer project today, removed the rear carpet, seat brackets and rear seat belts. Also removed some brackets from the PO.

Then hit the rear carpets with the gernie and washing powder. Have used this technique on all my older cars to clean the seat etc with good results.

 

[frankenyota]

Perfect day here today for washing drying interiors.

I’ll post some of the carpets once they fully dry.

 

[frankenyota]

Then moved onto dismantling and cutting the drawers into stackable items. After pretty much removing everything I noticed some rivets were not fitted correctly so drilled them out and fitted new ones. Also cleaned up a few sharp edges on the steel as l was handling and lifting these around a bit. You can see the rivets in the pictures below, l guess that’s what cheap quality means. I also cleaned the glue overspray off the fridge slide runners.
The cutting was straight forward.

 

[frankenyota]

One drawer mounted up for positioning, am thinking of adding another side bracket to the floor to stiffen up the drawers and making some flat brackets to mount to the sides to attach the top drawer. Trying to keep the fridge slide on the bottom drawer.
Drawer with my beer of choice

 

[beatle_bayly]

Good to see you are using the 3rd row seat bolt holes to secure the base, particularly as both drawers and their contents will now be held by half as many fasteners as the side-by-side configuration.. The instructions suggest using the tiedown bolts but they are frightfully small.

Not telling you to suck eggs, but be careful not to use too long a bolt. Those holes are not 'bottomless' and I think the fuel tank sits pretty close....
You may also find the frame won't sit dead flat on the floor as the 80 cargo floor isn't flat. Shim it with washers if needed so you don't twist the frame.

When I first got my 80 in 2010 I bit the bullet and washed the carpets, seats, and headliner. I thought it might just fall apart like wet Weetbix, but it stood up to being completely soaked and moderately brushed with soapy water (I used CT-18). I was stunned how much crud came out of it (smokers car I expect). As long as the liner is well supported all round, so it doesn't bend to the point of creasing, it's fine. I wish they'd stuck to that headliner design on the 100s, instead of the common cloth & foam, which invariably fails with age .......

I also cut off the spare wheel cranking 'bolt' as it was fouling on my fridge slide. I removed the linkage from the bolt to the cradle, and reverted to the earlier model method of using the long manual 'shepherds crook' crank handle fed through under the floor.

 

[frankenyota]

I have a rear bumper design from SDF that I’m going to get a quote on for the bending and cutting which has a spare wheel carrier so I’ll do as you did with the crank/locking bolt. I’m always amazed at the crap that comes out of carpet and seats when cleaning with a gernie.
I know what you mean with the floor not being flat as it flex’s in the front half, that was the reason behind the extra mounts.
Another job I want to do is remove all the carpet and clean and fit new sound insulation from carbuilders. Also want to put some on this in my HJ47 to help reduce noise.

 

[frankenyota]

As well as the rear bar I’m looking at building this front bar but with the winch mounted lower so it doesn’t block any air flow for the turbo.

Front winch bumper design/build

I finished up the front bumper build on my 80 today, and wanted to share my process for anyone interested, or maybe to help someone tackle their own build. (don’t be scared, it’s just metal!) I had an idea in my head of how I wanted it to turn out, so I started with a few measurements of the...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[Heckraiser]

Don't know how I missed this thread, but great work!

 

[frankenyota]

So got side tracked with some brake caliper overhauls for the 80 and the wife’s prado which was overdue for its service, bloody women. 80 got all new pistons and seals and sandblasted and painted the calipers.

Prado had a seized piston which took a bit of effort to get out, piston was good to go again.

 

[frankenyota]

Manage to make up some side brackets to support the top drawer to clear the fridge slide so it’s usable. Will try to finish another bracket and mount via the old seat mounting holes for support. Got the rear carpet all dry and ready for install.

 

[frankenyota]

Got the rear carpet installed and side brackets made, painted and fitted. Made the side brackets from some scrap 1.5mm l had. Trialing a side bracket. Still need some bolts and nuts to fit all the roller bearings for the top drawer and will probably build a plywood side which will hopefully support the side movement as well

 

[frankenyota]

Got a new wastegate spring to increase boost to 7.5psi or 0.5 bar. After measuring the original 5psi spring it was about 30mm OD, so couldn’t buy a turbosmart spring which are readily available. Found a Kinugawa spring was the right size. Swapped it over.

 

[frankenyota]

Looking at using car builders waterproof underlay to replace the tires old factory stuff. Wanted to give the carpets a good going over with the pressure washer and detergent, so put it came. Found some genius had drilled several holes through the floor in its life to mount god knows what. Might have to mug the holes up to stop any rust starting. Going to give the floor a clean and rust prevention while I’m there.