Rear Swingout DIY's (1 Viewer)

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Here's some pics of how I did the D-ring mounts. Not the only way to do it but these are not going anywhere.

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I see now what you mean by the bracket.

Hmm...now to decide if I want to weld directly outside the frame rail or inside. If I go inside, I'll have to make two more brackets for the inside to "sandwich" the frame rails.

You just have me an idea!
 
If you went inside you could just have the mount stick out about 1/8-1/4 inch past the inside of the bumper and weld both sides. Would be plenty strong.

Thinking I should use them anyway, but have them sit back the depth that's "square" maybe?

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As long as the shackle can still fit you should be fine. You could always add some angled plate on the backside back to the frame mount plates to increase the strength. I can see it in my head but probably a crappy description lol.
 
As long as the shackle can still fit you should be fine. You could always add some angled plate on the backside back to the frame mount plates to increase the strength. I can see it in my head but probably a crappy description lol.

I'm the exact same way and I found a meme to illustrate that when I first described by concept to someone lol

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Another thing I thought about. My bumper previously had the standard spindles that mounted down inside the bumper and then were also welded at the top plate opening. The new ones that I put on, which are the same as what you have, mount only on the top plate (and maybe to a vertical part in the back depending on your design) which can lead to flexing. I added some small angle inside the bumper to box it in and that stopped the flexing I was seeing when the arm would swing out. It's heavy AF w/ a 37" wheel/tire on it.

BTW I like the recessed hitch your adding. Something I'd like to do w/ mine eventually.
 
Another thing I thought about. My bumper previously had the standard spindles that mounted down inside the bumper and then were also welded at the top plate opening. The new ones that I put on, which are the same as what you have, mount only on the top plate (and maybe to a vertical part in the back depending on your design) which can lead to flexing. I added some small angle inside the bumper to box it in and that stopped the flexing I was seeing when the arm would swing out. It's heavy AF w/ a 37" wheel/tire on it.

BTW I like the recessed hitch your adding. Something I'd like to do w/ mine eventually.

Good point!

I plan on adding a plate on the sides of the vehicle, that sit a good deal higher than the bumper rear.

Hope that gives me the support the spindle will require. But thanks for reminding me to add reinforcement to it; I'll post up here once I get there for my plans on gusseting it.
 
Oh and I'm aware of the welds being a little cold!

This is all aesthetics so it wasn't much of a concern. I'll be going hotter on the tubing and plate when it gets tied in between the frame rails.
 
I would say yes. I bet that's actually why that part is there. You don't need much room to clear the shackle.

You're definitely right about that, guess I'm just used to how big the recovery point up front is.

This is a Coastal Offroad DIY bumper I welded together in January.

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@Pascoscout

Not having completely thought this out, regarding the hitch receiver length, just wanted to get your thoughts.

Initially I wanted to do this.

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Got the measurements I needed based on my template here; the frame rail tubing is 2 1/8" wide for anyone wondering.

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Had planned on plating against the inside of the frame rails and utilizing the bolt holes.

However, those holes are far behind and due to their placement, won't be as structurally sound if I ran a long plate to those bolt holes all the way back to the square tubing.

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Option 1 - run a single full width square tube, plated on each end to bolt it on the inside, and weld it to the end of the hitch receiver

Option 2 - continue with my idea, but instead weld the plates to the inside frame rails

This bumper wasn't going to be a bolt on solution in the end due to the hitch support.
 
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@Pascoscout

Not having completely thought this out, regarding the hitch receiver length, just wanted to get your thoughts.

Initially I wanted to do this.

View attachment 3082353

Got the measurements I needed based on my template here; the frame rail tubing is 2 1/8" wide for anyone wondering.

View attachment 3082355

Had planned on plating against the inside of the frame rails and utilizing the bolt holes.

However, those holes are far behind and due to their placement, won't be as structurally sound if I ran a long plate to those bolt holes all the way back to the square tubing.

View attachment 3082366

Option 1 - run a single full width square tube, plated on each end to bolt it on the inside, and weld it to the end of the hitch receiver

Option 2 - continue with my idea, but instead weld the plates to the inside frame rails

This bumper wasn't going to be a bolt on solution in the end due to the hitch support.

I did something similar to your first thought (option 2). Ran angle iron out from the end of the receiver tube to the angled pieces on the factory cross member. I did not want to cut out the cross member just in case someone (won't be me) wanted to put a stock bumper back on. I've towed my 2000lb, 18' long trailer with this set up and it was fine. Have not tested it with more weight. Your thought to run it all the way to the frame is certainly stronger but you'd have to cut out, or cut through, the angled parts.

If you plan to remove the factory cross member anyway, and wanted to be sure your hitch was strong enough to max out the towing capacity of the truck, I'd probably go with option 1.

Pic of what I did.

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I used the bolt holes in the frame to hold brackets that support the wings of the bumper. I had to add a few holes on the driver side but they work really well. I hit those wings on rocks a lot so I am glad I added support for them directly back to the frame. Pics are before gussets and welding but give you an idea. I made them bolt on so I can take the bumper off. If you are going weld on for the bumper these would be easier to make. Can take more pics of them if you wanted.

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I did something similar to your first thought (option 2). Ran angle iron out from the end of the receiver tube to the angled pieces on the factory cross member. I did not want to cut out the cross member just in case someone (won't be me) wanted to put a stock bumper back on. I've towed my 2000lb, 18' long trailer with this set up and it was fine. Have not tested it with more weight. Your thought to run it all the way to the frame is certainly stronger but you'd have to cut out, or cut through, the angled parts.

If you plan to remove the factory cross member anyway, and wanted to be sure your hitch was strong enough to max out the towing capacity of the truck, I'd probably go with option 1.

Pic of what I did.

View attachment 3082748


I used the bolt holes in the frame to hold brackets that support the wings of the bumper. I had to add a few holes on the driver side but they work really well. I hit those wings on rocks a lot so I am glad I added support for them directly back to the frame. Pics are before gussets and welding but give you an idea. I made them bolt on so I can take the bumper off. If you are going weld on for the bumper these would be easier to make. Can take more pics of them if you wanted.

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This is the kind of stuff I love seeing!

So I'll add a little in-depth info as to why my progress is super slow. I've got nerve damage, and a really bad back (sciatica too, disabled vet) at 36 years old. This bumper would've normally taken me an entire weekend.

Anyway, I just stare at my pieces and think of ways to make it super strong without being 'too much'...hard to not do 'too much'.

So far you already know how the base will look like. I will add triangular-style gussets once I style up the wings and those will most likely attach to the bolted side brackets that are on each end of the new bumper frame.

I am keeping the crossmember for the most part, just notching parts out to have the tow hitch pass through. But if you've towed, using only angle iron as support, then I can assume my method of beefing it up is probably overkill :rofl:
 
This is the kind of stuff I love seeing!

So I'll add a little in-depth info as to why my progress is super slow. I've got nerve damage, and a really bad back (sciatica too, disabled vet) at 36 years old. This bumper would've normally taken me an entire weekend.

Anyway, I just stare at my pieces and think of ways to make it super strong without being 'too much'...hard to not do 'too much'.

So far you already know how the base will look like. I will add triangular-style gussets once I style up the wings and those will most likely attach to the bolted side brackets that are on each end of the new bumper frame.

I am keeping the crossmember for the most part, just notching parts out to have the tow hitch pass through. But if you've towed, using only angle iron as support, then I can assume my method of beefing it up is probably overkill :rofl:
Happy to provide input. Sorry to hear about your injury, and thank you for your service.

I have bad sciatica too. I've found that of all things Yoga really helps. There are certain poses that really stretch the hip muscles and loosen up the area where the nerve tends to get pinched.

Keep up the good work. Just remember that progress is progress. Whether it takes a day or a week, building something cool yourself if worth the time and effort.
 
Here's mine:
Built my own factory bumper swingout, trashed it up, then got 4x4Labs bumper and built my own swingout on that.
 
Here's mine:
Built my own factory bumper swingout, trashed it up, then got 4x4Labs bumper and built my own swingout on that.

Scrolled through the whole thing; that's badass I dig it!
 
Happy to provide input. Sorry to hear about your injury, and thank you for your service.

I have bad sciatica too. I've found that of all things Yoga really helps. There are certain poses that really stretch the hip muscles and loosen up the area where the nerve tends to get pinched.

Keep up the good work. Just remember that progress is progress. Whether it takes a day or a week, building something cool yourself if worth the time and effort.

Thank you!

Plus side, drill press, rear latch, and spare tire plate are all ordered.

Really the next big step is just notching the crossmember for the hitch, and cutting some square tubing!
 

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