Looking good. With how tight you are keeping those corners in you may need to have a bend in the swing arm for your tire mount to clear the rear hatch.
Rear Swingout DIY's (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter Kwikvette
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- Thread starter
- #22
Thanks, and appreciate the heads up.
I've contemplated cutting the rear crossmember off several times, but after sitting some square tubing on top, I realized I'd need to make my bumper stick out anyway to accommodate a swingout.
I've got plenty of 2" square tubing, 1/8" thick which should serve well for a 33" tire. Plan is for a single swing out anyway, not a full one, and I plan to use 4XInnovations spindle kit for it.
Agree w/ @Pascoscout. Might want to go ahead and get your swingout hinges if you don't already have them and make sure there's room. My arms are flush w/ the back of the bumper but then angle in 15* to the hinge. Several different ways you can go depending on if you use the spindle style or the hinge type like 4xinnovations. I'm actually swapping mine over to the later right now and reworking some things.
I'm liking the design you got going so far.
I'm liking the design you got going so far.
Im sure you know what you are doing and this comment is intended to help out:
3/16" x 2" sq is the perfect size for your tire carrier....1/8" is too light and 1/4" is too much.....for the little bit of tubing you need, do yourself a favor and go with 3/16. I would hate to see it fail once completed. 2x4 rectangle tubing is preferred, to take advantage of the surface area on the "spindle".....then 2" sq or 2x4 rectangle to mount wheel to. There is a fine line between too little and too much. Again, only lending advice and learned lessons from my 8 ground up builds.
- Thread starter
- #25
Yeah I could do that.
Meant to say I'd be going with 2" x 3"
I have notes of steel I'd need and use for the build and I remember constantly going back and forth between 2" square or 2" x 3" mainly for the larger surface area.
3/16" square would be the better choice here really. Thanks.
Yeah, the 3/16" is what you want if you stick with 2x2. When I had my 33's it worked just fine. I ended up adding a truss style arm when I went up to 35's and made the arm longer.
What are these tail lights?
- Thread starter
- #28
Been super busy with a lot of things so my Land Cruiser bumper has been the least of my concerns.
I did however, cut some steel to size.
Top and rear face pieces being 45 15/16" wide by 3/16" thick.
Cut side pieces as well at 5 1/2" tall (the height of the face) and 6" deep (the depth of the top plate) by 3/16" thick.
Also got an idea of where the "bolt holes" area is on the factory crossmember as I plan to cut that out with my plasma cutter. Got those same dimensions carried over to the rear face as I want to cut that area out, and have the rear hitch sit a tad deeper vs flush with the rear bumper. This is strictly an aesthetic choice.
With the spare tire carrier (and that stupid bar) out of the way, I'll have plenty of room to run a "V" style reinforcement to the rear hitch between the frame rails.
Pics for your enjoyment! Wish I had the time otherwise I'd have parts cut and welded already. Still waiting for my weld-in anchor points to arrive as well as my 4XInnovations spindle I ordered over the weekend.
I did however, cut some steel to size.
Top and rear face pieces being 45 15/16" wide by 3/16" thick.
Cut side pieces as well at 5 1/2" tall (the height of the face) and 6" deep (the depth of the top plate) by 3/16" thick.
Also got an idea of where the "bolt holes" area is on the factory crossmember as I plan to cut that out with my plasma cutter. Got those same dimensions carried over to the rear face as I want to cut that area out, and have the rear hitch sit a tad deeper vs flush with the rear bumper. This is strictly an aesthetic choice.
With the spare tire carrier (and that stupid bar) out of the way, I'll have plenty of room to run a "V" style reinforcement to the rear hitch between the frame rails.
Pics for your enjoyment! Wish I had the time otherwise I'd have parts cut and welded already. Still waiting for my weld-in anchor points to arrive as well as my 4XInnovations spindle I ordered over the weekend.
KC Flush mount backup lights
- Thread starter
- #30
Figuring I'll use the extra 2" square tubing I've got to reinforce the tow hitch.
Need to cut these ends at 15 degrees so they mate with the tow hitch as well as the frame rails.
Also before I got busy, after coming back from the steel yard I thought I'd start cutting into the rear face so I can cut out the smaller pieces tomorrow.
Don't have a saw yet, so I've been cutting my square tubing and big plates with a bandsaw at my work.
Small cut outs or odd shapes I'll handle at home with the plasma cutter.
Need to cut these ends at 15 degrees so they mate with the tow hitch as well as the frame rails.
Also before I got busy, after coming back from the steel yard I thought I'd start cutting into the rear face so I can cut out the smaller pieces tomorrow.
Don't have a saw yet, so I've been cutting my square tubing and big plates with a bandsaw at my work.
Small cut outs or odd shapes I'll handle at home with the plasma cutter.
- Thread starter
- #31
Back issues and 100 degree weather is enough to take away anyone's motivation 
Spindle arrived, just in time!
With large pieces cut, I clamped them on for test fitting.
So far so good, just need to find time to notch out the rear crossmember as that's where the hitch will go through.
Also I need to buy a drill press cause I do not want to use a hand drill and go through 3/16" plate. Need it to make 2 holes per so I can use the factory bolt holes.
Spindle arrived, just in time!
With large pieces cut, I clamped them on for test fitting.
So far so good, just need to find time to notch out the rear crossmember as that's where the hitch will go through.
Also I need to buy a drill press cause I do not want to use a hand drill and go through 3/16" plate. Need it to make 2 holes per so I can use the factory bolt holes.
- Thread starter
- #32
Also figured I'd get to work on the rear hitch-face thing.
This really is just taking way too much time because I'm trying to be precise, with tools that don't allow that.
4" x 3 1/2" square plate that'll act as a filler. Just need to cut out a 2 1/2" square out of it.
Milwaukee mini cut-off tool because I assume I'd mess up with my plasma cutter.
So far so good!
Test fit.
And the 'look' I wanted to accomplish. I really hate a big flat face so I wanted to break it up with a hitch that sat inward a bit.
Once I tack that hitch into place, and get the crossmember notched, I can start measuring out for some square tubing for tying in the hitch with the frame rails.
This really is just taking way too much time because I'm trying to be precise, with tools that don't allow that.
4" x 3 1/2" square plate that'll act as a filler. Just need to cut out a 2 1/2" square out of it.
Milwaukee mini cut-off tool because I assume I'd mess up with my plasma cutter.
So far so good!
Test fit.
And the 'look' I wanted to accomplish. I really hate a big flat face so I wanted to break it up with a hitch that sat inward a bit.
Once I tack that hitch into place, and get the crossmember notched, I can start measuring out for some square tubing for tying in the hitch with the frame rails.
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- Oct 22, 2002
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Something else to consider is the wiring connections. Here is how I did mine on my 4x4Labs kit to prevent any trail damage.
Still looking good.
On your d-ring mounts consider cutting through the bumper face and recessing them so you can weld front and back. Much stronger than just welded to the surface. I've seen videos of d-ring mounts that were just surface welded pulling off and becoming a missel. On mine I passed them through the face about 2 inches and welded them to the bracket that bolts to the frame.
On your d-ring mounts consider cutting through the bumper face and recessing them so you can weld front and back. Much stronger than just welded to the surface. I've seen videos of d-ring mounts that were just surface welded pulling off and becoming a missel. On mine I passed them through the face about 2 inches and welded them to the bracket that bolts to the frame.
- Joined
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^This is a must.
- Thread starter
- #37
Didn't think about that, and definitely a good idea!
This is why the thought didn't occur; my wires are just zip tied up ever since I got the thing.
- Thread starter
- #38
Yeah I already regretted buying these once I got them.
I'm leaving the area marked as shown, but want to get longer ones so I can cut both through the crossmember but also the rear face and weld them on both sides.
Thanks for reminding me!
Here's some pics of how I did the D-ring mounts. Not the only way to do it but these are not going anywhere.
