Busted ignition - ignition cylinder rod replacement (2 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Had this happen in 2007, I have an '00 LX. I replaced only the shaft, but had to buy the housing and the shaft. It was about $200 at a dealer. The bastard at the counter laughed when he saw the broken part. He said it's a common thing and they keep them in stock for that reason.

It was a b'tch to replace the shaft only, but I think it's still easier that swapping in the bracket. I think there should be a recall based on this things breaking.

P.S. some bitch edited the bitch out of my bitching sentence, so I said bitch, I have to edit it.
Hi. So you bought the steering bracket assembly....then removed the rod inside of it and put it in your original column already there???
 
Hi. So you bought the steering bracket assembly....then removed the rod inside of it and put it in your original column already there???
That's what I did - quick under 30 min job
 
My ignition rod snapped last month on my 2000 LC. Luckily, at the time it broke it was parked on the street outside my home and not on the other side of town. One thing that slowed me down was that the grease inside the bracket assembly. Had a heck of a time getting any purchase until I got most of the grease removed from the surface of the rod. This thread and the video walkthrough got me through the task. Big thankyou to everyone who has contributed over the years.
 
Just fixed mine. So glad it happened in my driveway. Cost me $230 and some frustration getting the broken end out. Loved the video! I finally got the broken end out after removing 1 of the 2 screws holding the white ignition switch. I left 1 barely in to keep it from coming apart. The broken end is tricky because it has to line up just perfectly with the little notch in the assembly housing to release. Once I had the white ignition switch loose enough, I just had to keep fiddling with the broken end until I got lucky and the little wing at the end lined up with the notch. Important to keep the ignition switch loose when installing the new cam and getting it in to position. Thanks everyone!
 
Just fixed mine. So glad it happened in my driveway. Cost me $230 and some frustration getting the broken end out. Loved the video! I finally got the broken end out after removing 1 of the 2 screws holding the white ignition switch. I left 1 barely in to keep it from coming apart. The broken end is tricky because it has to line up just perfectly with the little notch in the assembly housing to release. Once I had the white ignition switch loose enough, I just had to keep fiddling with the broken end until I got lucky and the little wing at the end lined up with the notch. Important to keep the ignition switch loose when installing the new cam and getting it in to position. Thanks everyone!

Dreading this.....since my Wife consistently parks with the steering wheel turned about a half turn (putting pressure on it) and then CRANKS the key in the ignition really fast (since she is always late and in a hurry). Miracle it hasn't happened already.

I have the part on hand....knowing full well its just a matter of time. I suppose I should install it preemptively.
 
Dreading this.....since my Wife consistently parks with the steering wheel turned about a half turn (putting pressure on it) and then CRANKS the key in the ignition really fast (since she is always late and in a hurry). Miracle it hasn't happened already.

I have the part on hand....knowing full well its just a matter of time. I suppose I should install it preemptively.
I apologize beforehand but that is just funny. But chuckling with you not at you. My wife doesn't even let her '04 beast actually get started good before she is propelling down the drive. But so far I have to agree with her.....nothing has happened as a result. Gracious.
 
I have an ignition housing I can give you. It's most likely the inner part that has broken though...not the housing. I'm near orange county.
 
Dreading this.....since my Wife consistently parks with the steering wheel turned about a half turn (putting pressure on it) and then CRANKS the key in the ignition really fast (since she is always late and in a hurry). Miracle it hasn't happened already.

I have the part on hand....knowing full well its just a matter of time. I suppose I should install it preemptively.
Screenshot_20220807-110246_Chrome.jpg
 
Dreading this.....since my Wife consistently parks with the steering wheel turned about a half turn (putting pressure on it) and then CRANKS the key in the ignition really fast (since she is always late and in a hurry). Miracle it hasn't happened already.

I have the part on hand....knowing full well its just a matter of time. I suppose I should install it preemptively.

Flintnapper, just go ahead and do it. I did it as "PM" 3 weeks ago. Took a few hours but now I don't have to worry on my '99 with 333K miles. I should qualify my response: I take this truck on solo trips out into the back country of the U.S. Southwest so reliability is #1 on my list.
 
Flintnapper, just go ahead and do it. I did it as "PM" 3 weeks ago. Took a few hours but now I don't have to worry on my '99 with 333K miles. I should qualify my response: I take this truck on solo trips out into the back country of the U.S. Southwest so reliability is #1 on my list.

Sage advise, I am sure. 👍

Going to try to put it off a few months until cooler weather though. Wife's Daily Driver and just goes to town each day 20 miles one way. We occasionally go on a trip to see family 6 hrs away. I am retired, so I have the time (just a lot of other projects in the works).
 
Did you ever find our which one you needed? I have the exact same problem, and 7853B on the broken shaft.

if anyone can let me know where i can buy 7853a....other than rip off lexus dealer.....will be appreciated. attached pic for broken rod.

View attachment 1913574

 
Question about variations of the tube assembly for the steering column:

I have a 98 UZJ100 that had terrible quality work done by a lock smith (by prior owner). The location of key ignition is substantially lower than where it should be.

The ignition functions as it should with no problems, but the plastic trim piece does not align with the ignition location.

Question- does the later 100 series tube assembly (2002-2007; 45280-60610) sit lower than the early tube assembly (1998-2003; 45280-60510)?

Are the tube assembly intercahgable between years? Is it possible the locksmith installed the incorrect tube assembly?

Picture for details:

Without trim piece:

Screen Shot 2022-09-14 at 12.07.25 PM.png


With trim piece, 1.5" gap between the two trim pieces.

Screen Shot 2022-09-14 at 12.10.18 PM.png
 
I apologize beforehand but that is just funny. But chuckling with you not at you. My wife doesn't even let her '04 beast actually get started good before she is propelling down the drive. But so far I have to agree with her.....nothing has happened as a result. Gracious.
Old truck running hydraulics, gears, plenty of analogs over complex computers.

Best way to keep the hundy running as long as you can drive will probably be waiting for RPMs and the roar to settle before moving. Wait for hydraulic pressures to build on the various systems (steering, master, trans etc.), cats to heat before getting on the road, understanding how mechanical safety mechanisms like the steering wheel lock work adds up to good practice.

Unfortunately, people around us don't learn until we're stranded and kicking ourselves while getting some serious roadside assistance.
Ignition camshaft replacement ~104K on my '00LX from an angry get on the truck crank!
 
Flintnapper, just go ahead and do it. I did it as "PM" 3 weeks ago. Took a few hours but now I don't have to worry on my '99 with 333K miles. I should qualify my response: I take this truck on solo trips out into the back country of the U.S. Southwest so reliability is #1 on my list.
Keep the old one in the glove box just in case. I have a socket that I cut a slot in that will turn the cylinder if it breaks just in case. Of course you still need the key next to the sensor for the antitheft. I drove around with a socket and a extension as my ignition for a few weeks until it got above freezing for me to do it a few years ago.
 
Question about variations of the tube assembly for the steering column:

I have a 98 UZJ100 that had terrible quality work done by a lock smith (by prior owner). The location of key ignition is substantially lower than where it should be.

The ignition functions as it should with no problems, but the plastic trim piece does not align with the ignition location.

Question- does the later 100 series tube assembly (2002-2007; 45280-60610) sit lower than the early tube assembly (1998-2003; 45280-60510)?

Are the tube assembly intercahgable between years? Is it possible the locksmith installed the incorrect tube assembly?

Picture for details:

Without trim piece:

View attachment 3114849

With trim piece, 1.5" gap between the two trim pieces.

View attachment 3114853


My understanding is that to install the whole ignition "barrel" shaft assembly requires removing the steering column and doing the work on the bench . Lots pf hours of labor.

The real question is did the locksmith use the correct part? There are different part numbers for power and manual tilt steering wheels.
 
It appears the replacement rods are beefier in the key locations. Is there a model year that the better rods were installed from the factory or is this a weak spot in all from 98 to 07?
I didn't see any replies. Are all 100s susceptible to this?
 
I didn't see any replies. Are all 100s susceptible to this?
As far as I know, yes they are. It's a good idea to have the part on hand for if/when it happens.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom