Engine just turns off but will restart immediately (1 Viewer)

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I misread his explanation, I thought the car would turn off and then start right back up. I understood this happened while driving and no additional input from the driver. Sorry for my misunderstanding. Covid brain is my only excuse.
No worries, all good. Just don't want the OP chasing things unnecessarily.
 
I misread his explanation, I thought the car would turn off and then start right back up. I understood this happened while driving and no additional input from the driver. Sorry for my misunderstanding. Covid brain is my only excuse.
You're correct. When that was happening, the vehicle had just restarted with no more input. However, I'm beginning to think there is another gremlin. Lately, while just idling in the driveway the engine can/will sometimes just stop. No stumbling, no noise, just nothing. (Not even a last gasp). I've been able to just walk over and restart it with no problems. Last night, the engine quit about 3/4 of a mile from the house. I ended up having it towed home. Friends stopped and tried jump starting it to no avail. The engine would turn over with no issues but would not start. After having a jumper cable connected for @ 15 minutes, the truck would crank fast but no luck. Disconnect the cables and the battery is dead. Hmmm. Once it was home, I plugged in a large battery charger with 200amp start feature. On the second try, it started right up and idled normally as if nothing had happened. I'm replacing the battery today, but I don't think that's the complete culprit. I'm rechecking the fuses, wiring, etc... to see if there is anything else amiss. I'm also going to replace the fuel filter and may replace the fuel pump as well.
 
You're correct. When that was happening, the vehicle had just restarted with no more input. However, I'm beginning to think there is another gremlin. Lately, while just idling in the driveway the engine can/will sometimes just stop. No stumbling, no noise, just nothing. (Not even a last gasp). I've been able to just walk over and restart it with no problems. Last night, the engine quit about 3/4 of a mile from the house. I ended up having it towed home. Friends stopped and tried jump starting it to no avail. The engine would turn over with no issues but would not start. After having a jumper cable connected for @ 15 minutes, the truck would crank fast but no luck. Disconnect the cables and the battery is dead. Hmmm. Once it was home, I plugged in a large battery charger with 200amp start feature. On the second try, it started right up and idled normally as if nothing had happened. I'm replacing the battery today, but I don't think that's the complete culprit. I'm rechecking the fuses, wiring, etc... to see if there is anything else amiss. I'm also going to replace the fuel filter and may replace the fuel pump as well.
Sounds like some good quality bonding time. An obd scanner might prove a time saver if you live close to one of the big chain auto parts stores, most have a free scanner you can use to collect fault codes.
 
Sounds like some good quality bonding time. An obd scanner might prove a time saver if you live close to one of the big chain auto parts stores, most have a free scanner you can use to collect fault codes.

Sounds like some good quality bonding time. An obd scanner might prove a time saver if you live close to one of the big chain auto parts stores, most have a free scanner you can use to collect fault codes.
Thanks!! I have aOBD scanner installed full time. No codes have been thrown yet... 😞
 
Are you using Torque Pro? I had similar symptoms and they were caused by Torque Pro.
Actually, I am using Torque Pro. Hmmm... Although, last night I didn't have the app with me. But the ODBII reader was plugged in.... I wonder....
 
I had a hunch, so I experimented with a 3,000 mile trip using DashCommand instead. No stalling. About a year later I tried using Torque Pro again, mostly in an effort to confirm my findings. Guess what... Engine died at the first stoplight. It's a known problem for a few model years of the Ford F-150.
 
I had a hunch, so I experimented with a 3,000 mile trip using DashCommand instead. No stalling. About a year later I tried using Torque Pro again, mostly in an effort to confirm my findings. Guess what... Engine died at the first stoplight. It's a known problem for a few model years of the Ford F-150.
Is it the Torque Pro app or the OBDII device. Last night I didn't have Torque Pro up and running (I use a tablet and it wasn't with me) but I did have the OBDII device plugged in...... This is the device I use:

BAFX Products Wireless WiFi (OBDII) OBD2 Code Reader & Scan Tool / Wireless Check Engine Light Diagnostic Scan Tool for Cars & Trucks / for iOS. iPhone & Android Devices (1)​

 
I am using the exact same device and the same app with zero issues for years on my 100. I always have it plugged in while off-roading so its been on for hours at a time.
 
I've been using torque pro with a bafx obd reader since 2016 on two different 04 LC 100s. Never had any issues with engine cutting off.
 
FrankieJoe14 and Otter, thank you! Having been a programmer for a long time, I understand that differences in the Firmware and software versions can make a big difference. That being said, I'm not ready to abandon the idea that it could be a potential issue. I'm going to keep test things until I do find the exact cause (or go crazy in the attempt... :) ) I did replace the starter battery yesterday, so we'll see if the "random intermittent" issue comes back. Thank you everyone for all of the food for thought.
 
No worries. Just curious, what obd reader are you using?
 
No worries. Just curious, what obd reader are you using?
I purchased the OBDII reader from Amazon on a recommendation from a YouTuber (Lifestyle Overland). BAFX Products Wireless WiFi ODB2 Code Reader and Scan Tool
 
I use a BAFX as well. My Cruiser is a 1998, and I assume Torque Pro will work fine with most of the other model years.
 
Long shot but maybe try replacing the battery if you have have access to another one. On my 80 series I had a situation where it would die some times when I used the turn signals , wipers, turn the headlights on then it would immediately start again. Turned out to be a base cell(s) in the battery. Again a long shot but perhaps worth a try.
 
Long shot but maybe try replacing the battery if you have have access to another one. On my 80 series I had a situation where it would die some times when I used the turn signals , wipers, turn the headlights on then it would immediately start again. Turned out to be a base cell(s) in the battery. Again a long shot but perhaps worth a try.
Thanks!!! Yes, I replaced the battery on Wednesday. I was thinking the same thing. The old battery had been drained a few times and wasn't cycling like I thought it should. Unfortunately, yesterday afternoon, it died in the driveway again (while just idling) AC was on and the OBDII reader was plugged in. I unplugged the OBDII, turned off the AC, and still nothing. The vehicle cranks beautifully. But won't start. ordinarily it starts right away and idles very smoothly. So today I bit the bullet and ordered a new fuel pump from Toyota. It will be here tomorrow, and I'll replace the fuel filter at the same time. I'll post my results. Thank you for everyone's thoughts and .02 cents worth!!! I really appreciate it. I'm seeing a few other posts from other members that may be having a similar problem.
 
Just went through this thread given my similar current experience. Would you believe it, I also have a swag lanyard on my key. This cannot possibly be the culprit, right, or I might as well give up on Mechanics stuff altogether, cuz that's like well into the twilight zone.... :bang:
 
Just went through this thread given my similar current experience. Would you believe it, I also have a swag lanyard on my key. This cannot possibly be the culprit, right, or I might as well give up on Mechanics stuff altogether, cuz that's like well into the twilight zone.... :bang:
LOL!!! I'm not convinced that the heavy keys are the culprit. I've been using only the key and it's still happening
 
Update on the NO-Start issue: Well, I swapped out the fuel pump and the fuel filter today..... No change in the problem, although now I have a fresh fuel pump and filter... :) . THEN, I started looking at the EFI Fuse issues many members have discussed (including your elegant solution medtro). I pulled out the 20-amp fuse and discovered that there has been an issue before. There was a lot of corrosion on the engine side of the fuse holder and there was an extra piece of metal used by a PO (I'm third) stuffed into the fuse holder to apparently take up some slack. I put in a new fuse after cleaning both sides of the fuse holder and using a fresh piece of metal. (Yes, the new fuse was loose in the holder) SHAZAM!!! The vehicle started immediately!!!!! Not sure about the fixI used, but I'm anxious to try medtro's solution if it's more robust.
 
Update on the NO-Start issue: Well, I swapped out the fuel pump and the fuel filter today..... No change in the problem, although now I have a fresh fuel pump and filter... :) . THEN, I started looking at the EFI Fuse issues many members have discussed (including your elegant solution medtro). I pulled out the 20-amp fuse and discovered that there has been an issue before. There was a lot of corrosion on the engine side of the fuse holder and there was an extra piece of metal used by a PO (I'm third) stuffed into the fuse holder to apparently take up some slack. I put in a new fuse after cleaning both sides of the fuse holder and using a fresh piece of metal. (Yes, the new fuse was loose in the holder) SHAZAM!!! The vehicle started immediately!!!!! Not sure about the fixI used, but I'm anxious to try medtro's solution if it's more robust.

Yes, it is more robust but I am biased.
 

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