1FZ-FE exhaust - finally (2 Viewers)

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Joined
Apr 17, 2018
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1,163
Location
Roanoke, VA
Hey guys, did a quick search but can't find what I'm looking for. I've been working on the 80 (1997) off and on for about a week. Took the entire exhaust out except for the manifolds. Went back with Magnaflow y-pipe and second cat, cheap but correctly fitting muffler, and now I'm fabing up a new tailpipe. Was going to just grab a Toyota one but had a hard time finding them and $300+ for that part seemed stupid when I have tools, including a welder. So, the hiccup I'm running into is how does one install a tailpipe with that ginormous Toyota flange that mates to the rear of the muffler section? I have the first few pieces tacked up with the flange on and I can barely finagle the thing over the frame from the back. If I finish it, there's not a snowball's chance in hades that I can get it to go in....thoughts? I was thinking of making the section that passes over the frame really short and adding another flange connection. Not what I want but the only way I can figure getting it to fit. Thoughts? And how in the heck does an OEM tailpipe get installed? Mine had been modified to be shorter and I used a sawzall to remove it because I was gonna trash it anyway and I didn't think snaking the new one in was going to be as difficult as it has proved to be.
 
It will bolt up because the angular displacement is the same in both directions. However, the body of that catalytic converter will not be horizontal with respect to the body of the vehicle. It can't. The flange in the foreground of that photo (the one that would be mating up to the other cat if I turned it around) is not parallel to the horizontal axis of the cat. The rear flange of the first cat is...so if I bolt them together the body of the second cat will be canted. I don't see how that gains me anything.
Whatever. I'll send you a picture of mine. I have the same Magnaflow front and rear cats.
 
This is what I ended up with. Happy with the routing. Tried to keep it up out of the rear axle and panhard's way. Welds are very ugly but also very sealed and solid. Pretty sure the pipes will rust through before the joints. If anyone was wondering it's very quiet - which is exactly what I wanted. The drone from my old busted muffler was killing me. Now the air conditioning drowns out any engine noise if it's on high. Major improvement.
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This is what I ended up with. Happy with the routing. Tried to keep it up out of the rear axle and panhard's way. Welds are very ugly but also very sealed and solid. Pretty sure the pipes will rust through before the joints. If anyone was wondering it's very quiet - which is exactly what I wanted. The drone from my old busted muffler was killing me. Now the air conditioning drowns out any engine noise if it's on high. Major improvement.
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How far away from the rear cross member is it above the diff?
Hard to tell from the angle of your photo.
Might want to cycle the rear suspension and check clearance to the panhard rod
 
How far away from the rear cross member is it above the diff?
Hard to tell from the angle of your photo.
Might want to cycle the rear suspension and check clearance to the panhard rod
I think it has enough room, though I admit I have not fully compressed the suspension to find out. Here's a couple more pictures that better show the spacing. I might end up having to adjust it. Hopefully not but :meh:
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I used the factory hangers and cushions to attach everything...so that's the weak point. If I smash the axle into the exhaust the cushions will probably tear free before I completely mangle everything. Here's to hoping that doesn't happen.
 
OK so you got me thinking about it so I went out and moved the truck in the driveway. There's a small bank on one side. Here's the 80 flexed, not all the way to the bump stop but close. And still no contact. The picture angle isn't perfect. It looks like the rear control arm is right under the exhaust but it's actually just to the outside of it. Haven't tried the other side yet. Got interrupted. I'll come back to it later.
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OK so you got me thinking about it so I went out and moved the truck in the driveway. There's a small bank on one side. Here's the 80 flexed, not all the way to the bump stop but close. And still no contact. The picture angle isn't perfect. It looks like the rear control arm is right under the exhaust but it's actually just to the outside of it. Haven't tried the other side yet. Got interrupted. I'll come back to it later.
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Now go the other direction so it will push the panhard bar toward the exhaust. (RF wheel on the hill)
 
My solution on the tailpipe, if it is of value. Tried running without the rear resonator, but the whistling drove me crazy. Ended up reinstalling and rerouting. Very happy with the outcome. Aside from the stainless turndown, all the tubing is reclaimed bends from the factory system.
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My solution on the tailpipe, if it is of value. Tried running without the rear resonator, but the whistling drove me crazy. Ended up reinstalling and rerouting. Very happy with the outcome. Aside from the stainless turndown, all the tubing is reclaimed bends from the factory system.
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Do any of you have a problem with melting anything on that corner on a trip? I had my son's power wheelchair on a hitch rack on the back of mine and one front wheel must have been in the wash path of the exhaust because it melted the front wheel on it. Like turned it into a drooling mess.

When I see a LC exhaust routed under any truck, I question how could it NOT melt something or asphyxiate the operators.
 
Do any of you have a problem with melting anything on that corner on a trip? I had my son's power wheelchair on a hitch rack on the back of mine and one front wheel must have been in the wash path of the exhaust because it melted the front wheel on it. Like turned it into a drooling mess.

When I see a LC exhaust routed under any truck, I question how could it NOT melt something or asphyxiate the operators.
I am running a Delta rear bumper. If I had a plastic bumper, I think this routing could pose more of an issue. As it is now, the exhaust routes to nearly the edge of the bumper, so most of the exhaust gas flows out the side or up through the wheel arch (when the vehicle is stationary). One of the primary reasons I added the stainless turndown was to redirect the output flow. Prior to the turndown, the rear mounting brackets on the Delta bumper got pretty hot after a long, sustained freeway drive. With the turndown, the rear of the bumper gets warm at best. And that includes when I sit in a parking lot idling for extender periods of time. This setup with works well for me. And I too was suspect of exhaust under the chassis, and the potential of CO asphyxiation.
 
Do any of you have a problem with melting anything on that corner on a trip? I had my son's power wheelchair on a hitch rack on the back of mine and one front wheel must have been in the wash path of the exhaust because it melted the front wheel on it. Like turned it into a drooling mess.

When I see a LC exhaust routed under any truck, I question how could it NOT melt something or asphyxiate the operators.
If it makes you feel any better, I've had serious exhaust leaks for the better part of a year and no one has died. Ideal? Definitely not. Did I want it fixed? Yes. But life happens...the point being, asphyxiation is probably really hard to accomplish unless you're in a garage that's closed.
 

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