WarDamnEagle
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #541
Thanks Mike. Don’t give me too much credit. All I did was remove the insulation, a sheet or two of improperly applied Dynamat, and vacuumed up the mess.
Builds A pig for Father's Day (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter WarDamnEagle
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
bobm
WTF, WTF, WTF!!!!
Was I right?? Thats the most important thing 
WarDamnEagle
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #544
I thought we established long ago that you are always right?Was I right?? Thats the most important thing
My pig came with attic insulation in the same place
WarDamnEagle
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #546
A few weeks back I needed a new battery. While the pig was idling in the parking lot waiting on a landing spot the lower radiator hose sprung a leak. Long story short, the shop was able to get a new aftermarket upper and lower hose the next day so I left it with them. Now the temp gauge is sitting around 3/4 towards H and rising even higher if I let it sit. I replaced the thermostat and that hasn't helped.
So maybe a logical next step is to replace the water pump? Probably needs to be done anyway. It looks to be the original water pump.
So maybe a logical next step is to replace the water pump? Probably needs to be done anyway. It looks to be the original water pump.
Maybe it has an air pocket in it. Wonder if they burped it after they put on new hoses?
WarDamnEagle
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #548
They seemed to know what they were doing for whatever that's worth. I have driven it once or twice and checked the radiator level. I also had to top off the radiator after changing the thermostat and the level was fine after a test drive and cool down. The radiator certainly got hot after the test drive so I'm pretty sure that the thermostat opened and water circulated through the engine and radiator. Anything further I should do to verify?
I would think if it's circulating good and all the hoses are getting hot then you shouldn't have any air pockets. I would check the temp. with another manual gauge before changing out the pump.
bobm
WTF, WTF, WTF!!!!
Drain it. Open the drain on the block and flush the whole system with a garden hose. Run it with water and see where your temps at.
WarDamnEagle
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #551
Well after months and months I finally got my pig back yesterday. The body shop I chose has a good reputation but they lost their only employee that pounds metal part way through my repair and then it just sat...and sat....and sat. To add insult to injury a tow truck driver managed to hit the front passenger fender. Thankfully it was the passenger side as I have a NOS fender for that side.
I finally made a deal with them to weld up the two antenna holes and to just call it a day on everything else. I think that was the right call as it still needs a frame off restoration. They did a great job on the holes (inside and out) and the dent is straight enough for now.
It was certainly good to drive it again. The FZJ75 pickup and the FJ45 Troopy are both fun to drive but I think the pig is still my favorite.
WarDamnEagle
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #552
Front fender damage.
Blastservices
SILVER Star
Geeeez! What a bs situation all around
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
Glad you got your Pig back, sad to hear the story.
It seems like everyone is saying the same thing, that they can't find skilled labor to do anything more complex than replace something old with something new.
Sad.
It seems like everyone is saying the same thing, that they can't find skilled labor to do anything more complex than replace something old with something new.
Sad.
WarDamnEagle
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #556
Indeed. However, you can't tell where the antenna holes were inside or outside. If they have the skill to do that then they could have done the rest. Unfortunately all of these shops want nothing but insurance work these days. All in all it's an okay outcome for me. I wound up way ahead monetarily and they got the rear quarter 90%+ of the way there....and those holes filled. That passenger front fender already had a decent crease in the front lip which is why I was going to replace it with the NOS fender.
This. How did we get to a point where there is no skills left, total lack of mentorship? It’s ridiculous how many things have gotten scarce after society taking “skills” for granted the last many decades.
WarDamnEagle
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #558
I think I have asked this question before so forgive me if so. Does anyone have one of these original screws? There are M4 captive nuts on the backside so I assume an M4 JIS ~25mm would work. Just didn’t know if the OEM ones were something special like black finish, etc.?
FWIW, that vent bezel/molding or whatever you call it isn’t in the parts diagrams as far as I can find. Would love a part number for curiosity’s sake if anyone has one. Again, pretty sure I’ve brought this subject up before.
FWIW, that vent bezel/molding or whatever you call it isn’t in the parts diagrams as far as I can find. Would love a part number for curiosity’s sake if anyone has one. Again, pretty sure I’ve brought this subject up before.
WarDamnEagle
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #559
The light assemblies that I bought a few months back for the gaskets and lenses had some M4 x 25mm screws so I used those and called it a day.
WarDamnEagle
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #560
When I bought my pig there was a rip in the headliner just above the front seat. I taped it up with Gorilla tape at the time but decided today to just cut two sections of the headliner and to remove the jute padding in those areas as well. I was pleasantly surprised to see zero rust on the underside of the roof panel. I have a NOS OEM headliner to install but obviously that's not happening anytime soon. Looking forward to that day though.
