3.0 engine pull- with or without transmission? (1 Viewer)

[ColoradoBoy]

HI, all-
Been over on the 80 series forum, but looking for some help over here. I have an 89 pickup that needs a new motor. Getting ready to pull (never done a pull on the 3.0 before), but am looking for input as to easier/harder to keep the transmission attached & pull them both or detach and pull the motor. I do have a copy of the FSM, but sometimes other peoples tips and tricks can be real time savers. I know... 3.4 swap was REALLY tempting, but I really didn't want to get into that much money/time/learning curve to do so. I have a rebuilt 3.0 on order from Yota1 Performance, so please limit replies to the issue at hand.

Thank you in advance for those willing to let me know their 3.0 pulling experience.

 

[gnob]

If the rubber is still supple, you should be gtg.
The heat cycles and oil exposure cause the rubber to harden and shrink.

 

[ColoradoBoy]

If the rubber is still supple, you should be gtg.
The heat cycles and oil exposure cause the rubber to harden and shrink.

Cool. That was my thinking, but light on experience for this. I'll go pull them off and get a visual on the gaskets.
Thanks!

 

[vipergrhd]

If the rubber is still supple, you should be gtg.
The heat cycles and oil exposure cause the rubber to harden and shrink.

Like what @gnob said, I would loosen up the bolts and properly torque them to specs. don't forgot some silicone at the corners and don't put too much.

 

[Emmanuel]

HI, all-
Been over on the 80 series forum, but looking for some help over here. I have an 89 pickup that needs a new motor. Getting ready to pull (never done a pull on the 3.0 before), but am looking for input as to easier/harder to keep the transmission attached & pull them both or detach and pull the motor. I do have a copy of the FSM, but sometimes other peoples tips and tricks can be real time savers. I know... 3.4 swap was REALLY tempting, but I really didn't want to get into that much money/time/learning curve to do so. I have a rebuilt 3.0 on order from Yota1 Performance, so please limit replies to the issue at hand.

Thank you in advance for those willing to let me know their 3.0 pulling experience.

View attachment 2697386

 

[ColoradoBoy]

Like what @gnob said, I would loosen up the bolts and properly torque them to specs. don't forgot some silicone at the corners and don't put too much.

Thanks for that- I referenced the FSM & got the tip for the sealant at the corners. Upon pulling the 'newly rebuilt engine' covers, I found extra sealant on top of the gaskets all of the way around. (WTF?) Also, found one of the covers had a bunch of dusty crud on the inside walls; dusted the head and camshaft as I used a rubber mallet to break the previous installer's glue job; kinda pissed me off a bit. Professional? I think not. Scraped off the extra goop all of the way around. Got the shop vac and attached a straw-sized nozzle to suck up as much as I could before putting on my old, but now very clean covers on.
What a day...

 

[ColoradoBoy]

Got side tracked with needing to replace front wheel bearings and races in the '95 4R... (Supposed stop-gap rig while I work on my pickup (almost 3 years ago now)- same old story, found a deal I couldn't pass up. Glad I did, it has been my DD!)

Now seeing that I need to purchase the grommets to seat the fuel injectors into the intake manifold. A bit disappointing to find these not included in the rebuild kit (generic description of INSTALL GASKET SET on the website). My fault for not knowing exactly what is required for all the little bits and pieces. On a positive note- got my injectors back from Witchhunter Performance. All specs came out great for the set.

I may not be good, but I'm slow...

Cheers!

 

[ColoradoBoy]

Slow progress, but progress is being made. Finally got the motor loosely bolted up to the motor mounts and transmission this morning. Slow and semi-steady will get me there, preferably before winter temps hit! I sure do miss driving this truck. New Denso starter, A/C compressor (& tidbits), and rebuilt the P/S pump. Looking for a Denso alternator soon (just because), but the original is still going strong (knock on wood). Looks like another $250, but trying to stem the bleeding of $$... Hard to do; would really like to re-gear "while I'm in there..."

Tempted to round up a 7MGE VAFM and see if allowing some extra airflow will give her a little bit more oomph up here in the high country.
LINK: 7MGE for the 3.slow

 

[pappy]

Looking for a Denso alternator soon (just because), but the original is still going strong (knock on wood).

I would just replace the brushes and call it a day. That should get you lots of mileage.

 

[aztoyman]

All those nice clean parts look GOOD. I agree with pappy on the alternator brushes. Just freshen it up. Unless you want a nice clean one to match your new engine.

 

[ColoradoBoy]

All those nice clean parts look GOOD. I agree with pappy on the alternator brushes. Just freshen it up. Unless you want a nice clean one to match your new engine.

Yeah, not a bad idea; leaning that direction…. A refresh is probably just as good. Thanks for the advice!

 

[ColoradoBoy]

Man, I did not expect things to take so long... Maybe I expect too much of myself. Still trying to get o-rings for the fuel injector cups- lost in the mail (our government services at their finest, eh?) Sometimes living in a rural setting sucks. I'm on a quest to the local-ish auto parts stores to see what I may find today. My research shows something in the -021 o-ring size should work. I have learned a lesson: a 'complete' long block does not really have all of the components to truly assemble a motor that is full of bits and pieces that SHOULD or NEED to be replaced, if you are trying to be thorough about it.

But still... having a relatively fun time, and can't wait to be on the road again!
Cheers!

 

[aztoyman]

Yeah, sometimes it's the little stuff that can hold up a big job. Thanks for the update.

 

[ColoradoBoy]

When life tries to kick you in the nuts....

Been a rough month-
Inflation is killing me, just like everyone else. Refrigerator quit @ 1st of the month (3 weeks running for camping cooler living), clothes dryer 2 weeks after (might as well order a new set, right?)!! Broke the vacuum ports on the P/S pump and EFI Temp Switch (hurry up & wait for new parts). Today, on my run to town, Cylinder #6 head gasket failure on the '95 4R that is my stop-gap rig while rebuilding the Pickup. Ugh.

Limped home on a few radiator refills, jumped to Step #6 . Cooked up some steaks on the BBQ. Do the 'Colorado thing'!

Feeling a little bit better... No sign of coolant in the oil, at least. New and hotter fire under my butt to get the truck back on the road!

 

[pappy]

Broke the vacuum ports on the P/S pump

Just so you know. That vacuum thing on the power steering pump is a pressure switch. The idea is when you put the pump under pressure it increases the idle. It's the same idea as the AC idle up. You can usually live without it.

 

[ColoradoBoy]

Just so you know. That vacuum thing on the power steering pump is a pressure switch. The idea is when you put the pump under pressure it increases the idle. It's the same idea as the AC idle up. You can usually live without it.

Thank you for the info, @pappy, I kind of figured that (omitting the vacuum line) may not be the end of the world, but would like to put it back to/keep it as Toyota engineered. Call it OCD, or stupid stubbornness, or what have you. I appreciate your willingness to pass on your knowledge for us!

 

[ColoradoBoy]

One step forward, two steps back- 3 steps forward...
Finally starting to look like a functioning engine bay again. I need to hook up the vacuum lines, clutch slave cylinder, pwr. steering pump, A/C compressor, alternator, plug wires, throttle body... You would think the list would get shorter, but it seems to keep going.
A good weekend of progress- I'll take it!

Cheers!

 

[ColoradoBoy]

Oh no...
Looking for advice/experience.

Went to fill up radiator yesterday, in a rainstorm, in the barn. Rain hitting the roof so hard, I couldn't hear anything else. Looked under the truck to see antifreeze running down the driver side of the block, just behind the motor mount. Verified tonight that the leak is coming out of the bolt hole where the motor mount attaches to the block.

What happened, or what did I miss? Did I over-tighten and crack the block, (I really don't think I am that strong, even if I wanted to) or did I get a bad block from the builder? Is there a fix, or am I starting over, needing a new block?

Going to crack open a beer and cry for a bit while I hope for a more experienced mechanic than me to chime in. @pappy, perhaps?

Thanks in advance...

 

[gnob]

those bokts are pretty short, or should be. did you possibly replace with wrong one?

 

[ColoradoBoy]

those bolts are pretty short, or should be. did you possibly replace with wrong one?

Possibly, but I tried to keep everything indexed in the same holes as I swapped parts from old block to new. I could try a shorter bolt... Is there really a 'hole' for the cooling passages to escape out of a motor mount tap? That seems wrong to me.

 

[ColoradoBoy]

Possibly, but I tried to keep everything indexed in the same holes as I swapped parts from old block to new. I could try a shorter bolt... Is there really a 'hole' for the cooling passages to escape out of a motor mount tap? That seems wrong to me.

So, I'm an idiot. Found a missing brass plug plug just below the freeze plug, and just above the motor mount bolt. I hope I made someone laugh with this oversight!
Moving on...