Builds My LC79 build, HZJ79 body, 2uz/A343f UZJ79 (1 Viewer)

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@sr5pickup …. “Built a rear bumper to mimic the factory 79 bumper. Didn’t like how the oem was so flimsy”.
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Someone at Toyota had a vivid imagination to call their OEM design a “bumper” but it is satisfying knowing that old beer cans have a second life. 😊
 
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@sr5pickup …. “Built a rear bumper to mimic the factory 79 bumper. Didn’t like how the oem was so flimsy”.
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Someone at Toyota had a vivid imagination to call their OEM design a “bumper” but it is satisfying
Yeah it’s really just a large tag mount.
 
Some updates on the truck. I added the factory rear flares after a rock flew up and hit my mirror while traveling down a dirt road. Luckily it didn’t break but I took that as a warning and put them on. No plans to add the fronts at this point.

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Made up a console to clean up the shifter area. It’s made from 6061 T6 aluminum. The top portion is .125 and the sides are .080 in thickness. For the finish I tried out a wrap and ended up taking it off and getting it powder coated. Cup holders are from Amazon and tray is for a Tacoma center console.

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Last but not least I replaced the 16” wheels and 255 85 16’s with 17” fj steels and 35 11.5 17 Nitto trail grappler m/t. Surprisingly quieter than the 255 Yokohama Geolanders

Also upgraded the suspension to Ome Bp51’s front and rear with Ome 2” lift springs.

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Didn’t you have to run wheel spacers for those wheels?

How about some more pics, I almost ran that same combo on my 80 just didn’t want spacers.

Cheers

No wheel spacers but that could be because I retro fitted 79 series brake calipers in the front, plenty of clearance in the rear with 80 series calipers. Here a couple of pics of the current setup with a little poke. 4th pic is with my prior setup with 16” 1st gen Tacoma steels with 255 85 16.

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I do believe the issue with needing spacers is due to knuckle arms and tres. Backspacing of the wheel being to much. Thats the word, haven’t tried it myself.

Looks great though.

Cheers
 
Some updates on the truck. I added the factory rear flares after a rock flew up and hit my mirror while traveling down a dirt road. Luckily it didn’t break but I took that as a warning and put them on. No plans to add the fronts at this point.

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How did you determine where the rear tub needed to be cut in order to fit the factory flares? I'm going to be changing mine from Kut Snake to factory items and the bodyshop have suggested bonding them on due to not having a template for any cutting and drilling required.
 
I spent a lot time staring at pictures of prior and current builds on the forum to help determine placement and where it matched up with the body lines of the bed, etc.

Ultimately it took me taping the flares to the body and making sure it was evenly placed. With tape already around the arches. I took a sharpie and traced the outline of the inside portion of the flare, as you see in the photos above. Once I was satisfied with where I had it placed I cut 1/4 - 1/2” below the traced line with a body saw. I think the best practice is to remove in small amounts and check fitment. It’s a little more work but it’s better than guessing and taking off too much in the first cut.

Not sure if you have the flares on hand but they do have this contour that fits in with the body (pic below). This will aid in keeping the flare from being mounted too high or low when determining placement.

Once it’s cut to the correct size and the flare fits in the cut out you can then determine where the brackets need to be placed.

I would provide the shop with as many photos as you can find including the ones above. That way they can reference them and get a good idea of placement. If they don’t want to do it this way I would find another shop as I think bonding would be a bad idea.

Hope this helps!

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Not sure if you have the flares on hand but they do have this contour that fits in with the body (pic below). This will aid in keeping the flare from being mounted too high or low when determining placement.

The OEM flares for the HZJ77 has the same contour. That rubber seal definitely takes some finesse to make it uniform all the way throughout.
 
No the plug is a triangle shaped plug, it has 3 pin locations but only utilizes 2. You could possibly change out the plug on the 8332069565 to match yours.
Was the plug like this on this sending unit? I received the new wire transmission cable but I have a 3-pin sending unit just want to be sure before I order this #8332069565

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