Builds A New 55 Owner Intro (cgn1976 thread) (1 Viewer)

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Sorry, but I agree with Mark on this one. That bracket needs to go. It isn't fully welded and the the steel is not nearly as heavy as the cast OEM pedestal. It also isn't gusseted properly and your photos only show 2 bolts through the frame. While the shock tower portion is probably ok, I wouldn't run the steering box mount. Since it's a mini truck box it will bolt to a stock 40 pedestal that are readily available used. A lot of people remove them when they eliminate the extra linkage and put a 60 or Saginaw box on. I know I have a couple kicking around and would gladly send you one if you want it.
Thanks for the input. I'd be interested in the 40 pedestal. I'll PM you. On the 40 pedestal, what happens with the shock mount? Would I keep what's there now?

Is there any logic to beefing up the current set up by adding some gussets? Think I'll add another bolt through the frame at a bare minimum until I get this dealt with.
 
Another thought that just occurred to me is to ask if the steering moves exactly the same amount to the left and to the right? If the steering box is not centered, and the sector shaft is overly tightened, it will be noticeably stiffer as it tries to make its way across the apex.

When I rebuild boxes in my shop, I always mark them externally on the apex for correct reinstallation. ;)
From what I can see, it moves an even amount both ways, but I'll check that again. This is a new development in the last few months. Didn't have the resistance turning
one way for the first 8 or so months I had it.

I see some remanufactured boxes on line for like $400 bucks. Any thoughts on those? Should I be trying to track one down on here, if in fact it is the box itself?
 
I’d worry about the box and not get too worked up about the mount at the moment. Mount reminds me of an IPOR mount that used to be popular years ago. Buddy of mine ran a similar setup with 36” Super Swampers. Not the greatest, but with a mostly stock setup, it’s fine.
Get a replacement box or have your current box gone through and rebuilt.
 
From what I can see, it moves an even amount both ways, but I'll check that again. This is a new development in the last few months. Didn't have the resistance turning
one way for the first 8 or so months I had it.
Almost has to be the box.
 
Almost has to be the box.
Been a minute on this steering issue, but managed to solve this one today. It was in fact the box, as predicted by ya'll Pig herders. Thx for the sound advice!

Sourced a rebuilt unit online and got it installed today. Actually shocking how easy the install went. O-Reilly loan-a-tool puller and some torch time helped. There was one little hiccup. The boxes for the 1979/80 mini trucks have a slightly different size on the return line fitting, which I didn't realize until I had the old one out and the new one mounted. I wasn't really sure what was in my truck as the P.O. put it in. I did my best to compare photos of the two options online and thought I got it right. I clearly did not. I bought the 1980 version, but needed the 1984/5ish version that has the same size in and out fittings. This thread made easy work of getting this sorted:


Anyway, found some adapters online (JT had the exact part, which I ordered late last night). This morning I decided to try a local hydraulic hose shop near my favorite brewery and for $24 they not only had the fitting but built me a much better custom hose with it. A few weeks ago I also sourced a new adjustable drag link because the one I had was a welded up mess with shot ball joints. All in and no leaks.

Wilber is back on the road and turning like butter, and in BOTH directions no less! I also wanted to comment on the mounting bracket, which was mentioned a few pages back for not looking up to the job. With things apart, I could see it has 4 bolts through the frame (2 across and 2 top to bottom), and is plenty stout for my purposes. The pics I posted initially didn't do it justice.

Anyway, as always thanks for the help Pig mudders! Would never have been able to figure this out without you fine folks!
 
Believe I used the same mount for my conversion to mini truck ps. Issue over time is keeping those bolts tight to the frame. Finally had it tacked to the frame. No problems since. You may want to think about doing that.
May drive the Frankencruiser down to ABQ in a few weeks for a visit with my son. If so I’ll PM you. Give you a chance to see how your old winch looks now.
 
Believe I used the same mount for my conversion to mini truck ps. Issue over time is keeping those bolts tight to the frame. Finally had it tacked to the frame. No problems since. You may want to think about doing that.
May drive the Frankencruiser down to ABQ in a few weeks for a visit with my son. If so I’ll PM you. Give you a chance to see how your old winch looks now.
Good to know. Probably a good time to tackle that whole learning to weld thing. Let me know if you come down. Love to see another rig and get some more knowledgeable eyes on mine
 
Been quite a bit since I posted on this thread. It’s pretty much the history of my journey with this truck so I thought I’d bring it up to date and consolidate a bit. Lots of you helped me through my spun bearing and 2F swap from last summer and into the new year. Again, can’t thank you enough! Learned a ton. Here are those threads.



As for more recent news, I don’t want to jinx anything here but it’s running so nice! New engine has about 600 miles on it and seems very happy. I moved to a GM alternator not too long ago. Had a few hiccups but got it sorted. New 6 gauge and new ground wire to the frame. Ended up needing a new fusible link right after. Got stuck on the side of the road near home one Saturday. Easy enough fix.



Did a few seals on the TC a few weeks back. I need to do the rings on the speedo cable gear. Have a tiny drip there. Found a thread on that process. I’ve talked about adding AC, although I ended up just getting a roof rack, so that project is once again pushed out for a while. Also think I’ll likely do the front disc conversion before I get to the AC. Had a squeal going on the front for a while on hard braking but lubed the contact points and I think I solved that. Hasn’t done it in a few weeks now. Spent a few hours yesterday with a wire wheel and metal brush cleaning up things underneath. Been doing this a little at time ever since I bought it. A little black paint, and some fresh undercoating over the existing that's still sticking good. Almost done with this process which is nice. I came out from under there looking like a coal miner!

Generally speaking it’s running great and I feel confident that it’s ready for the Pig Party run in a few weeks. That’ll be the longest run I’ve ever taken with the truck by far, but I really feel good that it’s up to the task. Guess I’ll find out soon enough. Looking forward to meeting a bunch of you that helped me get here and see in person all those awesome rigs!
 
No pics?? WTF HIHO!!!!
Once the rack show's up, I'll post some. Went with the Bowfin Cruiser...read good things.


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Little update post pig party. Generally speaking, the rig did pretty well! First real run out of town since I've had it and most intense off roading I've done with it. Too much fun! Mentioned my drive shaft bolts coming loose in the party thread on the way home, which was more than a little scary. Got under there road side and were only 3 bolts loosely on, with only one having a nut left! Had some issues with power steering and alternator underperforming, but it turned out it was just belt tension. Rush55 pointed this out the day before we left. Probably need a different pully on my Saginaw pump.

I did have a few overheat issues, (one up at 10k+ ft and another coming back into the Albuquerque heat). It turns out they were pretty much low coolant issues. Not having the overflow tank, I think it just kept dumping fluid and over time it got lower than I realized. Got an overflow tank ordered. I had a tiny radiator leak pop up near the upper hose connection on the stock radiator after one hot session. Got the torch and solder out and got it sealed back up., but I ordered a new Mosely radiator anyway. Did manage to get the water pump pully shimmy straightened out. There was a tiny bit of play in the pully mounting holes. I put one loop of electrical tape around the flange and that made it sit centered as I tightened the bolts. Smooth running now.

Biggest issue was cleaning off all that damn mud I brought home with me! Was underneath with the power washer for an hour, laying in the mud as it dropped off! I channeled my inner pig for sure that day. That pretty new paint in the engine bay and underneath is wearing a lot more slop these days. looks the part a little more now at least!
 
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I also spent more than an hour with the hose under the pig pushing mud out of all sorts of crevices. That stuff really sticks!! I too looked like a pig wallowing in mud by the time I was done. My FJ55 body was ceramic coated so the mud didn’t stick there but I did use vinegar in the windows.
 
I think I have a wide-groove power steering pump pulley for you. It’s on a stock Toyota ps pump. 5/8” wide at the top of the trough.
Unsure that the ID for the shaft will fit a Saginaw.

Vinegar works good to get the mud stains clean.
Let me dig a litte and see what i can figure out on those. Surley somebody already has had this same issue
 
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Got pretty muddy myself and left a lot of NM mud on the driveway when I took a hose to a long session underneath the Frankencruiser. Probably the cleanest the underside has been in years.
Partial goal was cleanliness. Primary goal was trying to diagnose a driveline vibration that we brought home. Nothing visibly loose. Suspect a u-joint issue. Likely in the double cardan joint at the top of the front driveshaft but they all date back to when we lifted it and installed the overdrive, which added 7+ inches between the bell housing and Toyota 4 spd. Will get it sorted out before heading out of town again weekend after next.
 
I have gotten driveline issues from having too much mud. Have you driven it since you cleaned it?
All the way home and since cleaning off the mud. Paid particular attention to hosing off the wheels and driveline.

Edit…rear u-joint is toast. After further driveway diagnosis in 100+ degree heat I’m making an appointment at the shop that built my driveshafts 7 or 8 years ago. Not even removing the 8 bolts to take in a bare driveshaft! Worth paying for in this heat.
 
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All the way home and since cleaning off the mud. Paid particular attention to hosing off the wheels and driveline.

Edit…rear u-joint is toast. After further driveway diagnosis in 100+ degree heat I’m making an appointment at the shop that built my driveshafts 7 or 8 years ago. Not even removing the 8 bolts to take in a bare driveshaft! Worth paying for in this heat.

Glad it held together for you to get home.
 

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