What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend? (32 Viewers)

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Ran up black bear this morning had really good rain and trails to ourselves
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Hey all! I have been PM'ing the crud out of my 1997 FZJ80 for a couple years and am getting ready to conduct my first non-pm work on the Sherpa Mobile!! I bought a rolling chassis (allegedly a RHD HDJ81) with locking diffs in it. I don't know for sure what year the chassis is and have opted to just retro the locking thirds into my existing housings rather than doing a complete axle swap because I don't want to have to mess around with differences in mounting the entire axles. I am going to shoot a parts order out tomorrow and one of the things I am going to purchase is this E-Locker retro kit from Yotamasters but have a quick question: Apart from the gaskets which I know are different, can I buy two (2) of these kits and use the bolts, drill, and tap to do both the front and rear?

Additionally, does anyone who has done this recommend me completely removing the housings from under my rig to accomplish this magical feat? I am pretty freaked out about drilling and tapping the new studs in a straight manner!!

When I bought the rolling chassis I got the entire wiring harness for it as well and have no use for it. I am thinking of selling it so if anyone wants more information lemme know.

Thanks everyone, I am excited...

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@69 Pigboy I found this idea as well there are ones for 2nd row seat. I like lego like setups where I am free to hang or change bags and pouches as needed.

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I have a MOLLE panel attached to the back of my passenger head rest with a Velcro tear-away trauma kit. It’s a super handy organizational system.
 
Hey all! I have been PM'ing the crud out of my 1997 FZJ80 for a couple years and am getting ready to conduct my first non-pm work on the Sherpa Mobile!! I bought a rolling chassis (allegedly a RHD HDJ81) with locking diffs in it. I don't know for sure what year the chassis is and have opted to just retro the locking thirds into my existing housings rather than doing a complete axle swap because I don't want to have to mess around with differences in mounting the entire axles. I am going to shoot a parts order out tomorrow and one of the things I am going to purchase is this E-Locker retro kit from Yotamasters but have a quick question: Apart from the gaskets which I know are different, can I buy two (2) of these kits and use the bolts, drill, and tap to do both the front and rear?

Additionally, does anyone who has done this recommend me completely removing the housings from under my rig to accomplish this magical feat? I am pretty freaked out about drilling and tapping the new studs in a straight manner!!

When I bought the rolling chassis I got the entire wiring harness for it as well and have no use for it. I am thinking of selling it so if anyone wants more information lemme know.

Thanks everyone, I am excited...

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Here is the kit I was talking about:

 
SAS#6 quickly approaching...

Surprised there isn’t more snow... I had some friends that were in Summit Co over the 4th and said there were still “boarders” in the upper bowls at Copper Mountain
Yea was a little snow left not much, I skied there couple years back on big snow year in aug, was during sas 3 me and @mcguirejohnson
 
Hey all! I have been PM'ing the crud out of my 1997 FZJ80 for a couple years and am getting ready to conduct my first non-pm work on the Sherpa Mobile!! I bought a rolling chassis (allegedly a RHD HDJ81) with locking diffs in it. I don't know for sure what year the chassis is and have opted to just retro the locking thirds into my existing housings rather than doing a complete axle swap because I don't want to have to mess around with differences in mounting the entire axles. I am going to shoot a parts order out tomorrow and one of the things I am going to purchase is this E-Locker retro kit from Yotamasters but have a quick question: Apart from the gaskets which I know are different, can I buy two (2) of these kits and use the bolts, drill, and tap to do both the front and rear?

Additionally, does anyone who has done this recommend me completely removing the housings from under my rig to accomplish this magical feat? I am pretty freaked out about drilling and tapping the new studs in a straight manner!!

When I bought the rolling chassis I got the entire wiring harness for it as well and have no use for it. I am thinking of selling it so if anyone wants more information lemme know.

Thanks everyone, I am excited...

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Please type this part number into your post so others can find it in a search.
 
Spent a nice weekend camping in the mountains with friends then got an awful knocking noise on the way back to town. It took a while to notice it because my camp stove rattles in the truck and I was listening to the stereo. By the time I really noticed the noise was not just my gear rattling around, turned off the stereo, determined it was coming from the truck and found a safe place to stop it was knocking and rattling like the dickens. Lost maybe 40% power by the very end and temp crept up to 207 (would normally be around 187 under these conditions). It did not lose oil pressure according to the gauge, did not lose oil. Fan and belts all tight and normal, no leaks other than the same old ones. Engine died as I rolled to a stop in D (did not turn off ignition). I was able to fire it up again, but the noise was terrible, so I just shut it back down right away.

I'm pretty sure the engine is toast, but I haven't had time to fully look into it. 340k miles, so I'm not too sore about it, but it was running like a top with no symptoms just the day before.

Any theories as to anything other than internal engine failure that might cause a clattering, knocking noise like a motor in it's death throes? Definitely not coming from the PS pump, but I could not pinpoint where the noise originates other than "from the engine." Timing chain? Water pump? Kind of afraid to start it up.

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And kudos to the tow truck guy for helping me get it into the garage without starting it up.

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Spent a nice weekend camping in the mountains with friends then got an awful knocking noise on the way back to town. It took a while to notice it because my camp stove rattles in the truck and I was listening to the stereo. By the time I really noticed the noise was not just my gear rattling around, turned off the stereo, determined it was coming from the truck and found a safe place to stop it was knocking and rattling like the dickens. Lost maybe 40% power by the very end and temp crept up to 207 (would normally be around 187 under these conditions). It did not lose oil pressure according to the gauge, did not lose oil. Fan and belts all tight and normal, no leaks other than the same old ones. Engine died as I rolled to a stop in D (did not turn off ignition). I was able to fire it up again, but the noise was terrible, so I just shut it back down right away.

I'm pretty sure the engine is toast, but I haven't had time to fully look into it. 340k miles, so I'm not too sore about it, but it was running like a top with no symptoms just the day before.

Any theories as to anything other than internal engine failure that might cause a clattering, knocking noise like a motor in it's death throes? Definitely not coming from the PS pump, but I could not pinpoint where the noise originates other than "from the engine." Timing chain? Water pump? Kind of afraid to start it up.

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And kudos to the tow truck guy for helping me get it into the garage without starting it up.

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I'm sorry for your loss.

Having a "sudden" start to clattering like that usually means it's catastrophic.

Drain the oil, then let us know if you have a pan full of glitter or Mocha Latte.
 
Well, the ignition tumblers broke unexpectedly. The parts I now need to replace are:

(Qty 1) 45280A (45280-60290) BRACKET ASSY, STEERING COLUMN, UPPER
(Qty 2) 45897 (45897-60010 superseded by 45897-12020) BOLT, STEERING LOCK SET

It's dead in the water until I can install something. I had to use a forklift to move it into the building. Fortunately it happened in front of our warehouse at work.

It took me about an hour to dig into the dash to find the problem. Finding a replacement and getting it swapped will take a bit longer.

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Well, the ignition tumblers broke unexpectedly. The parts I now need to replace are:

(Qty 1) 45280A (45280-60290) BRACKET ASSY, STEERING COLUMN, UPPER
(Qty 2) 45897 (45897-60010 superseded by 45897-12020) BOLT, STEERING LOCK SET

It's dead in the water until I can install something. I had to use a forklift to move it into the building. Fortunately it happened in front of our warehouse at work.

It took me about an hour to dig into the dash to find the problem. Finding a replacement and getting it swapped will take a bit longer.

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Can you start it with a screw driver at that level of tear down?
 

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