Builds The Architect's '77 FJ40 (6 Viewers)

[waiting for time]

Clean out the threads, make sure the mating surfaces are flat and apply a very light coat of copper grease. Then tighten to specifications. The loosening comes from vibrations, heat cycles and insufficient pre-load (not torque). Making sure all surfaces are as they are designed provides a higher pre-load (stretch) in the bolt.

If you cannot find a tap to clean the threads just make a few cuts across the threads of an old bolt.

 

[GA Architect]

For the past month, I've been noticing a pungent fuel smell from time to time while driving. I initially thought my Sniper fuel lines were leaking at a joint, but upon investigation, no joint shows fuel residue. Thought it might be my charcoal canister lines in the engine bay, but not them. Goodness, I sniffed all around the fuel tank, not there....then I got a faint smell from the fuel evaporator separator area. Upon investigation, here is what I found. You guys see anything wrong with these pics?

Awwwweee, shucks! However, I have a plan.....parts and pieces are being obtained.....will post up later what I come up with.

It's been a few years since I've been in here, so I'll clean it up a bit.

 

[bikersmurf]

For the past month, I've been noticing a pungent fuel smell from time to time while driving. I initially thought my Sniper fuel lines were leaking at a joint, but upon investigation, no joint shows fuel residue. Thought it might be my charcoal canister lines in the engine bay, but not them. Goodness, I sniffed all around the fuel tank, not there....then I got a faint smell from the fuel evaporator separator area. Upon investigation, here is what I found. You guys see anything wrong with these pics?

View attachment 3041127

View attachment 3041128

View attachment 3041129

Awwwweee, shucks! However, I have a plan.....parts and pieces are being obtained.....will post up later what I come up with.

It's been a few years since I've been in here, so I'll clean it up a bit.
View attachment 3041130

I’ve since replaced it, but in about ‘91 I repaired mine that broke there with a male-male hose coupler to replace the broken off piece. Glued it up with ‘Seal All” and had no more vapour leaks. 5 or 10 years later I came across one that wasn’t broken and swapped it out.

I mention it because they do break, and couplers are readily available for field repairs on the road.

 

[GA Architect]

I’ve since replaced it, but in about ‘91 I repaired mine that broke there with a male-male hose coupler to replace the broken off piece. Glued it up with ‘Seal All” and had no more vapour leaks. 5 or 10 years later I came across one that wasn’t broken and swapped it out.

I mention it because they do break, and couplers are readily available for field repairs on the road.

What is nutty, the fuel smell inside my 40 wasn't all the time, and didn't fill the cab during the day sitting out in the sun. Also the fuel smell wasn't that noticeable when I got in to go home from work. Seemed like it was more noticeable during down shifting or coming off throttle. I can only surmise that is when the fuel return is at max flow and creates vapor pressure inside the tank, only to purge thru the vents. Thus the strong raw fuel smell in short burst. None the less, it will get resolved here soon.

 

[Honger]

What is nutty, the fuel smell inside my 40 wasn't all the time, and didn't fill the cab during the day sitting out in the sun. Also the fuel smell wasn't that noticeable when I got in to go home from work. Seemed like it was more noticeable during down shifting or coming off throttle. I can only surmise that is when the fuel return is at max flow and creates vapor pressure inside the tank, only to purge thru the vents. Thus the strong raw fuel smell in short burst. None the less, it will get resolved here soon.

Looking forward to seeing your solution.

I really want one of those stainless units I've seen that someone here had designed and had fab'd up. Best to get away from the plastic long term.

 

[Green Bean]

What is nutty, the fuel smell inside my 40 wasn't all the time, and didn't fill the cab during the day sitting out in the sun. Also the fuel smell wasn't that noticeable when I got in to go home from work. Seemed like it was more noticeable during down shifting or coming off throttle. I can only surmise that is when the fuel return is at max flow and creates vapor pressure inside the tank, only to purge thru the vents. Thus the strong raw fuel smell in short burst. None the less, it will get resolved here soon.

Olfactory fatigue - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org

What is nutty, the fuel smell inside my 40 wasn't all the time, and didn't fill the cab during the day sitting out in the sun. Also the fuel smell wasn't that noticeable when I got in to go home from work. Seemed like it was more noticeable during down shifting or coming off throttle. I can only surmise that is when the fuel return is at max flow and creates vapor pressure inside the tank, only to purge thru the vents. Thus the strong raw fuel smell in short burst. None the less, it will get resolved here soon.

Perhaps this: Olfactory fatigue, also known as odor fatigue, olfactory adaptation, and noseblindness, is the temporary, normal inability to distinguish a particular odor after a prolonged exposure to that airborne compound.

 

[bikersmurf]

There’s a check valve there so it could impact when you smell fumes. I believe you’d only smell fumes when the pressures were right.

 

[70fj40]

Greenbean that is some “tech” right there!

 

[GA Architect]

All right, got it put back together last night. Installed all new 1/4" lines and used a stainless steel barbed Y-Cross Fitting to tie the three vent lines together.

Y-Cross Fitting -> Click here <-

Now to plan for flushing the power steering pump, gear box & lines. I'll also be adding a 10" Derale single pass fluid cooler.

 

[Chestcutter]

Rick- that's a nice solution to the vapor separator. Curious to see how it will work without "chambers" to allow the vapor to collect and condensate to drain.

 

[Green Bean]

Nice job! I really like the wide hose clamps. Would you mind sharing the brand and size of the hose clamps that you used?
Thanks.

 

[GA Architect]

Rick- that's a nice solution to the vapor separator. Curious to see how it will work without "chambers" to allow the vapor to collect and condensate to drain.

Yeah, I thought about that. I have these to make the chambers if it becomes a problem. -> click here <-

Should I need the chambers, I would probably make three 2.5" high chambers out of 1/2" gates fuel hose and the attached fittings.

Tell you what, I'll make it up tonight and post a pic tomorrow.

 

[GA Architect]

Nice job! I really like the wide hose clamps. Would you mind sharing the brand and size of the hose clamps that you used?
Thanks.

The bands are the stainless steel ABA mini hose clamps from Marsh Fasteners. -> click here <-

For the 1/4" fuel hose, I minimized the size and used the #12 fasteners.

I'll be flushing and replacing the low pressure hose on my mini truck power steering unit. I be using the #15 fasteners for that 3/8" power steering hose.

 

[Chungas Revenge]

Yeah, I thought about that. I have these to make the chambers if it becomes a problem. -> click here <-

View attachment 3052602

Should I need the chambers, I would probably make three 2.5" high chambers out of 1/2" gates fuel hose and the attached fittings.

Tell you what, I'll make it up tonight and post a pic tomorrow.

50yr old plastic is going to do what 50yr old plastic does. Just had a plastic TS pedestal give up the ghost recently. So now I’m casting knowing glances at all my plastic/rubber pieces and parts..

Looking forward to seeing (borrowing) your idea(s)..

 

[1MOA]

Please let us know how well that works. I would love to get rid of my cobbled together vapor separator and use that Y cross fitting.

 

[Pierps]

Hi- while you have this opened up, you might consider installing a roll-over valve here.

 

[tls3601]

Nicely done Rick. Always welcome to come out and check out Arizona. I still haven’t done my doors yet, BUT things will be settling down here soon, so will be in touch. Tom

 

[Honger]

All right, got it put back together last night. Installed all new 1/4" lines and used a stainless steel barbed Y-Cross Fitting to tie the three vent lines together.

Y-Cross Fitting -> Click here <-

View attachment 3052494

View attachment 3052495

Now to plan for flushing the power steering pump, gear box & lines. I'll also be adding a 10" Derale single pass fluid cooler.

I really like the simplicity of this solution. I'm curious if you experience any issues from not having the "chambers". This seems such a straightforward and obvious solution...

 

[GA Architect]

Rick- that's a nice solution to the vapor separator. Curious to see how it will work without "chambers" to allow the vapor to collect and condensate to drain.

I really like the simplicity of this solution. I'm curious if you experience any issues from not having the "chambers". This seems such a straightforward and obvious solution...

I thought, and thought, and thought about this....I tried to find threads on how the rear auxiliary tanks are vented to see how they addressed this condition. When an auxiliary tank gets installed, I know they have a breather port/line. Some say they just plumb it into the charcoal canister, but don't mention about an installed 2nd 'fuel evaporator separator'.....unless I'm missing something, which can be the case, there isn't a 2nd one installed. Maybe the new auxiliary tanks address this condition within the fuel cell itself?

Hence the parts to configure a make-shift evap/separator. But I also have a new/used unit to purchase next week for my parts storage.

I'll say this. When I got into my rig this morning, there was no fuel smell of any kind in there. And that is a good thing!

 

[ToyotaMatt]

I thought, and thought, and thought about this....I tried to find threads on how the rear auxiliary tanks are vented to see how they addressed this condition. When an auxiliary tank gets installed, I know they have a breather port/line. Some say they just plumb it into the charcoal canister, but don't mention about an installed 2nd 'fuel evaporator separator'.....unless I'm missing something, which can be the case, there isn't a 2nd one installed. Maybe the new auxiliary tanks address this condition within the fuel cell itself?

Hence the parts to configure a make-shift evap/separator. But I also have a new/used unit to purchase next week for my parts storage.

I'll say this. When I got into my rig this morning, there was no fuel smell of any kind in there. And that is a good thing!

Rick ,



adding a 2nd one of these for the rear AUX tank is the modern and safe skool of thought , its independent of the front tank one that was not designed to handle

all the additional fuel pressure , and one way fluid and Vapors as well .........


simple yet absolutely effective ........

OEM TOYOTA Fuel Systerm Gas Tank Check Valve Line Hose Petrol Vapor Recovery 90917 Fits Just about ALL Land Cruisers See application chart first please ... - VintageTEqParts.com

OEM TOYOTA GENUINE PARTS FUEL SYSTEM GAS LINE CHECK VALVE Petrol Hose Vapor Recovery Fits the following Land Cruiser Models...

vintageteqparts.com

note : this is a 2F FJ45 Pickup set up , however the fundamentals and TECH are all the same in kind .......


i hope this help you Rick ...

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