Oil Cooler gaskets/ O rings (3 Viewers)

[LandoNick]

On a 87 FJ60. I'm going to pull my oil cooler and paint its and new copper rings and rings from Toyota. on the Parts diagram its seams to look like there is one copper ring and one O ring. But on a post I saw on here someone said 2 copper rings. I haven't pulled it apart yet. I just want everything ready when I pull it off.

 

[OSS]

There’s one metal ring and one rubber o-ring on each banjo bolt.
(2 metal and 2 rubber total)
See part numbers below:

 

[Gretsch]

If memory serves there is a groove in the engine facing side of the cooler where is O-ring sits. So as @OSS says there is a copper washer/gasket on the banjo bolt head side (outside of cooler) and then the O-ring in the groove on the backside of the cooler. Two of each. When you mount the cooler and tighten the bolts, it mashes the O-ring against the engine block mounting surface to create a seal. HTH.

 

[LandoNick]

What’s the torque of the oil cooler bolts?

 

[OSS]

Not too tight. Don’t use a torque wrench.

 

[Gretsch]

Added photo of the O-ring grooves in the back of the cooler just for clarity:

 

[LandoNick]

Not too tight. Don’t use a torque wrench.

That seems tricky!

 

[Gretsch]

That seems tricky!

I think he just means don't go gorilla on the bolts. Just get them snug. Those bolts I believe are long NLA and you don't want to strip something like that by hanging your body weight off the end of the ratchet when tightening them down. I think you can split the the O-ring by over tightening those bolts and creating a nice oil bath for your driveway. Just apply some common sense to the torque you apply. Maybe snug and then 1/8 turn? GL.

 

[micruz60]

Regarding torques; keep in mind these vehicles were designed to be maintained by tiny hands, ever try getting your large hands into the small spaces without getting scraped/ giving blood??!!?
Sore-rey if anyone's offended. . .

 

[Spook50]

Regarding torques; keep in mind these vehicles were designed to be maintained by tiny hands, ever try getting your large hands into the small spaces without getting scraped/ giving blood??!!?
Sore-rey if anyone's offended. . .

You're not wrong....

 

[LandoNick]

When I have the oil cooler out, I want to paint it. Can I flush it while it’s out or will I contaminated the oil passageways?

 

[OSS]

It’s ok to flush it through the pipes. They hold coolant. The oil flows on the sides.

 

[LandoNick]

I’m going to be changing the hoses to the rear heater too. What is the best way to release these hose clamps?

 

[g-man]

I've never reused those type of clamps. I usually just grab the cotter pin and turn until it comes loose. toyota makes a clamp that has is pre sprung and has a release clip that you pull out when it's on the hose in the right position. It's very nice for hard to reach places. Otherwise these wire type clamps are good and reusable:

 

[LandoNick]

I've never reused those type of clamps. I usually just grab the cotter pin and turn until it comes loose. toyota makes a clamp that has is pre sprung and has a release clip that you pull out when it's on the hose in the right position. It's very nice for hard to reach places. Otherwise these wire type clamps are good and reusable:
View attachment 3055643

I have this types of clamps from city racer. I got the full kits awhile ago. but the ones I have do not fit over that size of hose its just barely to small. I got some of the Constant Spring type in all different sizes.

 

[LandoNick]

Anybody good or bad luck with this type?

 

[Spook50]

Anybody good or bad luck with this type?

View attachment 3055741

Those are all I will use when I can. Worm gear style clamps suck when the weather gets cool, and the ring style if overtightened can cut into the rubber.

 

[OSS]

Those spring clamps are the best - if you use the correct size

 

[Gretsch]

I used the wire clamps on mine. Had a hard time getting one side to seal. Eventually got it but took some effort. I would have used the spring clamps if I had them available.

 

[2mbb]

That seems tricky!

I think you need to get the bolt tight enough such that the crush/sealing washer on the outboard side will seal. From the picture posted above it looks like the o-ring on the inboard side is supported by the o-ring gland so it can't be over compressed. You can probably do a google search for bajno bolt torque for the appropriate size bolt/washer.

Edit: I couldn't really find an appropriate specification using google. I think the oil side of the oil cooler is not under pressure. This crush washer seal would be similar to the seals for fill and drain plugs on the transfer case. I found the thread below providing some torque spec for those.

Toyota doesn't give any of these torques in the 60 series manuals.

Differential and transfer case plug torque specifications

Can anyone hook me up with the front and rear differential and transfer case fill and drain plug torque specifications? Been searching the forums and google for over an hour... nada :bang:

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