What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend? (84 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Spell "lifted". 🧙‍♂️
 
Thanks again Cruiser Dan! Don't be so modest! I want my wife to think I can so no wrong. Ha Ha!
 
I’ll send it to you care of the museum. Just the control unit?
I'm not sure exactly what I have going. It will arm but not lock. It will unlock with a disarm
 
I have a terrible vibe I haven’t been able to figure out and that is all that’s left. No vibes though. I’ve replaced the rear output bearing, and that didn’t help. It was pristine. I’ve thought about get one from Chris also and rebuilding/regearing. Maybe it will solve this as well.

I'm at the point of working through the driveline. Just had the rear diff rebuilt then noticed the roughness in rotation of the t-case, so that's been swapped out. In swapping out the t-case I took a closer look at the front diff and it's loose so it's next to come out for a rebuild. There's enough slop in the front diff that the driveshaft nuts at the flange were loose contributing to another source of vibration.
 
No I just mounted booster but wanted to install master cylinder and am missing the paper gasket in between. I think fipg would be even better but just wanted to check with the experts. I don’t like cutting corners and pride myself on doing stuff legit.
Check your push rod length and gap. Gasket thickness can affect it. Do you have a tool?
 
24 years no cracks, just dash fade. Originally a Seattle car. Want some protection here on out.

The dash mat look is growing on me just like I never thought I’d grow to appreciate sheep skin seat covers.

Black is the only color I’d go with. Nice and flat, too. I ain't scared of no ☀️.

View attachment 3036057
Can you share where you bought it?
 
Got rid of my P0420 code by fixing two exhaust leaks I found. One between the cats and one at the Y-pipe "crotch." New gaskets between the cats and I welded up the Y-pipe as best I could. Stuck my leaf blower up the exhaust pipe and zip tied the throttle wide-open and sprayed the exhaust with soapy water. You’ll find any leaks! Neighbors may look at you funny though.

AD4A585C-DEB1-4F2E-A647-BB632DDD20BC.jpeg
A3C8C132-5177-4969-AD32-6FAAA178710A.jpeg
 
Got rid of my P0420 code by fixing two exhaust leaks I found. One between the cats and one at the Y-pipe "crotch." New gaskets between the cats and I welded up the Y-pipe as best I could. Stuck my leaf blower up the exhaust pipe and zip tied the throttle wide-open and sprayed the exhaust with soapy water. You’ll find any leaks! Neighbors may look at you funny though.

View attachment 3047269View attachment 3047270

As if this would be the only reason my neighbors looked at me funny....
 
I'm at the point of working through the driveline. Just had the rear diff rebuilt then noticed the roughness in rotation of the t-case, so that's been swapped out. In swapping out the t-case I took a closer look at the front diff and it's loose so it's next to come out for a rebuild. There's enough slop in the front diff that the driveshaft nuts at the flange were loose contributing to another source of vibration.
Me too. Diffs rebuilt and regeared, new bushings on everything, castor dialed, part time so front doesn’t spin, but it’s new, new rear OEM driveshaft, pinion angle in spec. Middle section of the t-case is the only thing untouched except for the part time conversion in 2009. It’s smooth when turned by hand, but there seems to be excessive slop. T-case has 350k mi so I ain’t mad.
 

He is a Mud member here.

Yes, they are worth it.
I second that! I have both the front and rear BH3D cup holders, and they are awesome. When you think "cup holder" they can seem pricey. But when you think "custom made by a small business specifically for my truck" it's not so bad, lol. Excellent color matching, easy install, and versatile. Will accommodate everything from a 12oz soda can up to a Nalgene.
 
Thank you for the advice to clean the threads, I did this and it definitely helped the installation go smoothly. I think the hardest part of this job was loosening that brake line bracket and squeezing in the u-bolt on the driver side between the frame and fuel tank.

View attachment 3045254
Those look great! I really would love to have the BOR step sliders, but alas he only makes them for '95 and later (mine is '94). Presumably because the cat is in a different spot. I even reached out directly to see if he's make a one-off, but he declined and suggested I look at other vendors. :( Guess it will be White Knuckle for me at some point.
 
Me too. Diffs rebuilt and regeared, new bushings on everything, castor dialed, part time so front doesn’t spin, but it’s new, new rear OEM driveshaft, pinion angle in spec. Middle section of the t-case is the only thing untouched except for the part time conversion in 2009. It’s smooth when turned by hand, but there seems to be excessive slop. T-case has 350k mi so I ain’t mad.

If you rule out diffs, drive shafts, t-case, pinion angles, loose driveshaft bolts, etc. then step back and evaluate your cup holders. Have you installed aftermarket, or even OEM cupholders in non-OEM places? Often overlooked is that excessive cupholders and/or cupholder placement can cause a weight bias and introduce difficult-to-diagnose vibrations.
 
If you rule out diffs, drive shafts, t-case, pinion angles, loose driveshaft bolts, etc. then step back and evaluate your cup holders. Have you installed aftermarket, or even OEM cupholders in non-OEM places? Often overlooked is that excessive cupholders and/or cupholder placement can cause a weight bias and introduce difficult-to-diagnose vibrations.
You know, it could very well just be the loose nut behind the wheel.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom