LC100/LX470 Part-Time Conversion Discussion (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Has anyone had a shop perform this swap for them? Wondering what to budget for labor.

I agree, love the Aisin bling - and don't love the "drag" when lifting off the gas in the 100 Series compared to the FJ62 .. we'll see if it has anything to do with the full time awd vs ability to run rwd.
 
Can finally add my name to the list of part time converted!

First initial observation is all the clunking is fully gone! Steering feels a little lighter but wouldn't say as drastic as others made it seem. No deceleration pull when let off the throttle at fwy speeds.

Sure is fun throwing it in L range and hearing the supercharger really scream! :)
 
Can finally add my name to the list of part time converted!

First initial observation is all the clunking is fully gone! Steering feels a little lighter but wouldn't say as drastic as others made it seem. No deceleration pull when let off the throttle at fwy speeds.

Sure is fun throwing it in L range and hearing the supercharger really scream! :)

:cool:

Share some pics!
 
Hmmm … I love the way these hubs look. I have a set of raceline beadlocks and there’s no center caps available … I would love to figure out how to replace those dust caps with these hubs. But it seems like I would have to do the entire conversion? I’m not really looking to do it part time conversion though … bummer.
 
Hmmm … I love the way these hubs look. I have a set of raceline beadlocks and there’s no center caps available … I would love to figure out how to replace those dust caps with these hubs. But it seems like I would have to do the entire conversion? I’m not really looking to do it part time conversion though … bummer.

You can just replace the hubs and keep them locked all of the time. It’s a very easy swap.

You could install the hubs only and leave them locked as @TTViper suggested. Or you could shim the guts in the hub to stay permanently locked. All of which is an expensive thing to do for the look of hubs. Perhaps we need to 3D print hub look-alikes that stick on to a wheel's center cap :D
 
ETA on when TC100PTKITIFS will be back in stock?
 
Please remove this post , sorry for the inconvenience
 
Last edited:
Wife relayed that the box has arrived. She asked—-“Is more camping gear?”. Me——“Yes of course.”

Should we start labeling boxes as "work samples" or something to throw off the Mrs? :D
 
Would love to see this for a 150-Series!
I think the sealed bearing + hub unit design and outboard CV shaft design will prevent that entirely on all 150s.
 
Would love to see this for a 150-Series!
I think the sealed bearing + hub unit design and outboard CV shaft design will prevent that entirely on all 150s.

Don't want to hijack this thread, but, 120 and 150 platform can and has been done. Mostly... (And I'm fairly certain we've even talked about it before, earlier in this same thread. LOL )

The manual hub bodies from 90 series can press right into the bearings of 120/150 platform (just like how the 90 series does it).

It does take a wee bit of customization with either using the 90 series manual-hub-version outer bell-end of the CV axle and a custom middle shaft (splined to suit the 90 CV bell-end) or a custom outer bell-end that suits the manual hub setup. A few years back, there were vendors providing both types of conversion kits. I think you can still get them.

Then you need a part-time transfer case. It's mostly been done on 2005+ Tacomas (which share the same front axle design as 120/150) since they come already with part-time transfer cases (and the kits were created in the Tacoma world). Lots of Tacoma conversions have been done. But there is no nice spool option to just convert your existing full-time xfer case to part-time. Only option there at the moment would be to swap a part-time case in. FJ Cruiser full-manual xfer case has been used a lot for swaps and can fit up behind any like-for-like auto or manual trans in 120/150 platform.
 
Last edited:
I think the sealed bearing + hub unit design and outboard CV shaft design will prevent that entirely on all 150s.
Interesting. If what @theferg says below is right, sounds *possible* but *truly rather difficult*.
Don't want to hijack this thread, but, 120 and 150 platform can and has been done. Mostly... (And I'm fairly certain we've even talked about it before, earlier in this same thread. LOL )

The manual hub bodies from 90 series can press right into the bearings of 120/150 platform.

It does take a wee bit of customization with either using the 90 series manual-hub-version outer bell-end of the CV axle and a custom middle shaft (splined to suit the 90 CV bell-end) or a custom outer bell-end that suits the manual hub setup. A few years back, there were vendors providing both types of conversion kits. I think you can still get them.

Then you need a part-time transfer case. It's mostly been done on 2005+ Tacomas (which share the same front axle design as 120/150) since they come already with part-time transfer cases (and the kits were created in the Tacoma world). Lots of Tacoma conversions hsve been done. But there is no nice spool option to just convert your existing full-time xfer case to part-time. Only option there at the moment would be to swap a part-time case in. FJ Cruiser full-manual xfer case has been used a lot for swaps and can fit up behind any like-for-like auto or manual trans in 120/150 platform.
Was thinking of the FJC conversion as I read your post and you mentioning it definitely rings a bell. Sounds similar to the FJC transfer case swap I was preparing to do on my V8 4th gen 4Runner (aka 120) just before I sold it. In daily driving this would, if nothing else, be a help to the 460's MPG, though the cost of the project would likely offset any savings from fuel efficiency. Still, if it meant gaining an additional 1-2 MPG on the highway that could be a 40-50 mile jump in highway range. Not worth discounting seeing the current gas mileage is... bad.

Guess I'll have to go back through the whole thread now to find more details...
 
It should be said, however, that the 90 series bell-end/outer of the CV axle was argued to be weaker than the ADD version even on the 90 series (1G Tacoma). Throw in a 120 or 150 with gobbs more HP and torque than a 90 series, and, well, the risk is all yours to decide there. The same 90 series manual hub conversion that was done all over the place on 1G Tacomas and 3G 4Runners, was also done a handful of times on 1G Tundras as well...

Anyway, food for thought and always best to be edumacated on it as much as possible. It could always be un-done if the outers end up not holding up well on a 120/150.

Sorry for continuing the hijack, Kurt. :D
 
It should be said, however, that the 90 series bell-end/outer of the CV axle was argued to be weaker than the ADD version even on the 90 series (1G Tacoma). Throw in a 120 or 150 with gobbs more HP and torque than a 90 series, and, well, the risk is all yours to decide there. The same 90 series manual hub conversion that was done all over the place on 1G Tacomas and 3G 4Runners, was also done a handful of times on 1G Tundras as well...

Anyway, food for thought and always best to be edumacated on it as much as possible. It could always be un-done if the outers end up not holding up well on a 120/150.

Sorry for continuing the hijack, Kurt. :D
Sounds to me like I'll file it under "not worth it anytime soon" and hold out hope for an easier conversion or workaround by the time I break enough stuff to warrant the time/effort/money haha
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom