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going to drop all of the details here, so apologize in advance if it's long winded, but easier to lay it all out in advance then to answer a bunch of questions.
I replaced by front pads last week, after putting everyting back together and setting in the pads, my brakes SUCK. They weren't awesome before the new pads, but they are really bad now.
As I was doing the brakes, I noticed the lines closest to the calipers were pretty cracked, so I ordered all new stainless lines from Slee, including some extended lines while I was at it since I never changed them after I lifted the rig. I installed those and bled everything very well. Order of bleed: LSPV, RR, LR, LSPV, RF, LF. I also went and activated the ABS a few times driving in some dirt.
Brakes still suck
Bled again today and brakes still suck. The pedal doesn't go all the way down, it gets firm like it should, but after braking a couple of times, you have to push really hard to stop, definitely not safe to drive, emergency stops are non-existant.
before bleeding, I changed out the rear bleeders to speed bleeders because me OEM bleeders were plugged up with muck and wouldn't bleed.
Bleeding technique: I tried a few things, I bought a MightyVac, but it won't really pull any significant amount of fluid when pumped up to 15 lbs. I also tried my brothers pressurized bleeder. I made an adaptor for the cap and got the PSI up to 15 and again, it would barely push any fluid into the collection cup. So I did the two man brake bleed with my wife working the pedal and bled quite a bit of fluid out, until it was nice and clean. In all, I've used at least two large bottles of fluid.
I checked the vacuum out of the manifold and into the brake booster and it's pulling about 20lbs. I put a vacuum on the booster check valve nipple and when I got it up to 15 lbs, it very slowly leaked down (about 1.5 lbs in 5 minutes). I called my dad about it today (used to work for Willwood Brakes) and he suggested I grab a gauge and see what the pressure is at the calipers.
When I said the brakes weren't incredible before changing the pads, I'm guessing they were close to average for a rig on 35's with full armor. ABS was almost impossible to activate on dry asphalt. (please let me know if your rig on 35's can brake hard enough to activate ABS on dry asphalt).
So, any thoughts? What would you do next? I really need to get this thing driveable ASAP but I don't want to go broke paying a shop to work on it. I don't have a huge knowledge of brake systems, but I can tackle replacing most items with little reading/YouTube.
Edit with info I forgot to add initially: the brakes are extra terrible in reverse, just in idle or on a very mild hill, it wants to roll and not stop, brakes do almost nothing and get hard. quick butt pucker moment for sure.
Thanks in advance
I replaced by front pads last week, after putting everyting back together and setting in the pads, my brakes SUCK. They weren't awesome before the new pads, but they are really bad now.
As I was doing the brakes, I noticed the lines closest to the calipers were pretty cracked, so I ordered all new stainless lines from Slee, including some extended lines while I was at it since I never changed them after I lifted the rig. I installed those and bled everything very well. Order of bleed: LSPV, RR, LR, LSPV, RF, LF. I also went and activated the ABS a few times driving in some dirt.
Brakes still suck
Bled again today and brakes still suck. The pedal doesn't go all the way down, it gets firm like it should, but after braking a couple of times, you have to push really hard to stop, definitely not safe to drive, emergency stops are non-existant.
before bleeding, I changed out the rear bleeders to speed bleeders because me OEM bleeders were plugged up with muck and wouldn't bleed.
Bleeding technique: I tried a few things, I bought a MightyVac, but it won't really pull any significant amount of fluid when pumped up to 15 lbs. I also tried my brothers pressurized bleeder. I made an adaptor for the cap and got the PSI up to 15 and again, it would barely push any fluid into the collection cup. So I did the two man brake bleed with my wife working the pedal and bled quite a bit of fluid out, until it was nice and clean. In all, I've used at least two large bottles of fluid.
I checked the vacuum out of the manifold and into the brake booster and it's pulling about 20lbs. I put a vacuum on the booster check valve nipple and when I got it up to 15 lbs, it very slowly leaked down (about 1.5 lbs in 5 minutes). I called my dad about it today (used to work for Willwood Brakes) and he suggested I grab a gauge and see what the pressure is at the calipers.
When I said the brakes weren't incredible before changing the pads, I'm guessing they were close to average for a rig on 35's with full armor. ABS was almost impossible to activate on dry asphalt. (please let me know if your rig on 35's can brake hard enough to activate ABS on dry asphalt).
So, any thoughts? What would you do next? I really need to get this thing driveable ASAP but I don't want to go broke paying a shop to work on it. I don't have a huge knowledge of brake systems, but I can tackle replacing most items with little reading/YouTube.
Edit with info I forgot to add initially: the brakes are extra terrible in reverse, just in idle or on a very mild hill, it wants to roll and not stop, brakes do almost nothing and get hard. quick butt pucker moment for sure.
Thanks in advance
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